Ed

And here I thought that he was going to get $150 for his flat tops.:stupid:

Sell, Sell,sell!!!!!

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but you couldn't give away 73 carbs. They are not a desired item. Sorry.

In the VB catalog I notice that there are different oil pressure senders. One for 70-77 another 78-83. Which one should I use for my 73 with a F54 block from a 81?

Nice throttle links! Are those new?

I hate to say this but did you notice the dark spots between the cylinders? This indicates that there was a leak between the cylinders. That head needs to be resurfaced until the entire surface is clean. When it comes to gaskets you will get a bunch of different opinions but I say get one that has the metal rings around the cylinder holes. Felpro makes pretty good gaskets.

A cheater pipe could help that pipe wrench.

There were a few differences between these two. The one that is mostly talked about is the carburators. The 72 came with round top carbs (good) and the 73 when the emissions laws came in got flat top carbs (bad). Alot of 73 owners will swap out the flat top carbs also known as "boat anchors" with either 71 or 72 round tops. But seeing that your 73 has a 280 engine one would assume that the carburator issue has been dealt with. Another difference between the 73 & 72 is the front bumper. The 73's front bumper is about 2" farther forward and has a rubber "insulator" between the body and bumper. Also the bumper guards are bit larger. Given a choice I would go look at the 73 first. Go through our photo gallery and take a look at some of our cancer patients. You can quickly see where rust begins. Take a flashlight and a camera get underneath the car and look carefully. Any sign of new undercoating might be a bit suspicious. Like mentioned earlier rust will be your worse enemy. BTW what is "Aircared"?

Thanks for clearing that up Carl, I guess I had a little too much eggnogg.:classic:

Scott, I got a copy of the run from the Nissan dealer last year when I bought my Maxima. I watched it a couple of times, thought it was fun but like Brett240 said "he could have pushed harder". I don't think it's worth $50 maybe $10 maybe.

is if you did fight it and Mr Law man decides that the PO had no right to sell the car and that the car rightfully belongs to the PPO. You would then be out any money you put into it.

Sorry to hear that. Can think of a few things I would like to say:tapemouth . On the brite side. Learn as much from this car as you can. Take a lot of pictures & measurements. You might race against this car someday and the info could be usefull.

Does the lift adjust in width?

I know a guy in east San Diego that will put a Chevy BB 454 in your Z. He can also modify the rear end. He is very good. Been drag racing Z's for years.

Depending on how many miles and the climate. But in warm temps a 10-40 or 10-30 will be good for the engine. For the tranny or diff. Use 80W gear oil.

There is a member here on this site that was selling his Arizona Intake. He's Jeff1216. I don't know if he still has it.

I'm trying to clean my A-arms and front cross member so I can paint them. My question is how do I get into those small crevaces? There is a plate welded over the channel making it impossible to sandblast in there. I was thinking of taking it to my plater and having them dip the pieces in acid. What can you guys suggest?

Oh yea, Pictures!

Congratulations! Boy you got a deal. I've got one little piece of advice. If the car still has the original carbs (flat tops). Don't waste your time rebuilding them. Parts are pretty hard to find and they are pretty difficult to tune. If they run just leave them for now and get yourself a pair of round tops (71-72). Rebuild those and you will be a happier man. Good luck. Ed

Just a little curious. What would be the production date or vin of the last 240?

Not an easy question, First off you can't really see any major damage from your pictures. But to give you a little idea, figure how much time will it take one person to properly replace rusted sheet metal. For instance take a floor board. You have to remove the seat, carpet and some upholstery. Then all the rusted metal must be removed. If you went and replaced the entire floor board with ones from zedfindings along with the framerail then you could have a good idea of how much work your looking at. Maybe (I'm guessing here) if he's lucky or experienced 5-10 hours? (totaly depends on how much rust there is)?? Multiply that by $60 dollars U.S. per hour (could be more expensive, still guessing here). You also mentioned some rust by the sun roof and rear window, again it all depends how easy it will be to replace the metal. Now he could do a wizz poor job and just grind away the visible rust then fill it with some type of body filler that would be cheaper but not permanent. Then after the body is ready were looking at paint. Now if you want your car to look good for just a few months. Earl Sheib is your man (sp). But if you want that paint to shine for years and to be able to see the reflection of the trees 1/2 a mile away your talking $$$$. A cheap paint job $200. Good paint job $2000. Excellent paint job $4000. The paint job in the attachment is an excellent paint job. On my car I'm going to do all the sheet metal myself. Strip and prep as much as I can, then take it to the body man to have it painted. And I am expecting to pay atleast $4000 for my paint job. I hope someone else can give you better news. Good luck Ed

It goes on top of the radiator support. Right (starboard) side. BTW MikeW is that a chain around your water pump pulley? Edit: You position the sticker facing back. Like you are reading it from the engine bay. By the way where did you get the sticker from?

Are those ceramic coated header's from MSA guaranteed not to rust? And what is the benifit of a 6-2 vs a 6-1?