Ed

I'm recovering my pedals and am looking for something that looks a little faster. What do you guys use to cover the brake, clutch and gas pedals? Do you use the stock rubber pads? Or do you use those aluminium pedal covers?

I went to the drag races here in Lancaster NY during the summer. All of the sudden the snowmobiles came out or as they called them "sleds". At first I thought "how fast can a snowmobile go"? I noticed they had replaced the front ski's with what looked like rollerblade tires. The rear track had the teeth or grooves removed. Into the staging lights and vrooom they were GONE! C-YA! BYE-BYE! I kid you not, these things were going 125mph+ in the 1/4. It was sick. They were going faster than the street bikes. Faster that most of the cars!!!

There isn't much difference between standard DOT 3 and 4. DOT 3 & 4 are mutually compatible. Anyway, don't mix unless you're going to flush the system thoroughly, which means you're going to run about 2 quarts through and then fill and bleed. Reason being is if DOT 3 & 4 are mixed, it lowers the boiling points (wet/dry) of the 4 to about the same as the 3 (i.e., no point in spending the extra $$$ then).

Consider it done!

Automotive brake fluid has many responsibilities. Corrosion protection and lubrication of brake system components are only a portion of the role brake fluid must play. All automobiles that have a hydraulic braking system must use brake fluid in order for the brake system to operate. The type of fluid used can depend on the type of vehicle and the demands of the vehicles brake system. The two most common brake fluids used in the automotive industry are fluids that contain Polyalkylene Glycol Ether and fluid that contains Silicone or Silicium-based Polymer. Both Fluids are common but very different in regards to the manner in which they perform. Fluids containing Polyalklene Glycol Ether are more widely used and are the only fluids that should be used in racing brake systems. Because brake systems may reach extreme temperatures brake fluid must have the ability to withstand these temperatures and not degrade rapidly. SILICONE BASED FLUID Fluids containing Silicone are generally used in military type vehicles and because Silicone based fluids will not damage painted surfaces they are also somewhat common in show cars. Silicone-based fluids are regarded as DOT 5 fluids. They are highly compressible and can give the driver a feeling of a spongy pedal. The higher the brake system temperature the more the compressibility of the fluid and this increases the feeling of a spongy pedal. Silicone based fluids are non-hydroscopic meaning that they will not absorb or mix with water. When water is present in the brake system it will create a water/fluid/water/fluid situation. Because water boils at approximately 212º F, the ability of the brake system to operate correctly decreases, and the steam created from boiling water adds air to the system. It is important to remember that water may be present in any brake system. Therefore silicone brake fluid lacks the ability to deal with moisture and will dramatically decrease a brake systems performance. POLY GLYCOL ETHER BASED FLUIDS Fluids containing Poly glycol ethers are regarded as DOT 3, 4, and DOT 5.1. These type fluids are hydroscopic meaning they have an ability to mix with water and still perform adequately. However, water will drastically reduce the boiling point of fluid. In a passenger car this is not an issue. In a racecar it is a major issue because as the boiling point decreases the performance ability of the fluid also decreases. Poly glycol type fluids are 2 times less compressible than silicone type fluids, even when heated. Less compressibility of brake fluid will increase pedal feel. Changing fluid on a regular basis will greatly increase the performance of the brake system. FLUID SPECIFICATIONS All brake fluids must meet federal standard #116. Under this standard is three Department of Transportation (DOT) minimal specifications for brake fluid. They are DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 (for fluids based with Polyalkylene Glycol Ether) and DOT 5 (for Silicone based fluids). MINIMAL boiling points for these specifications are as follows: Dry Boiling Point Wet Boiling Point DOT 3 401ºF 284º F DOT 4 446º F 311º F DOT 5 500º F 356º F DOT 5.1 518º F 375º F Racing brake fluids always exceeds the DOT specifications for dry boiling points. Wet boiling points generally remain the same. DOT 3 VS. DOT 4 and 5.1 AFCO's 570º brake fluid is a DOT 3 type fluid. However, it has a dry boiling point that is 52º higher than DOT 5.1 specifications, 124º higher than DOT 4 specifications and 169º higher than DOT 3 specifications. AFCO's 570º fluid meets or exceeds all DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 lubrication, corrosion protection and viscosity specifications. AFCO's 570º racing fluid meets but does not exceed federal standards for wet boiling point specification; therefore, its classification is DOT 3. Because AFCO's 570º fluid is intended for use in racing type brake systems that undergo frequent fluid changes, exceeding federal standards for wet boiling points is of little concern. Racing brake fluids always exceeds the DOT specifications for dry boiling points. Wet boiling points generally remain the same. WET VS. DRY BOILING POINT The term boiling point when used regarding brake fluid means the temperatures that brake fluid will begin to boil. WET BOILING POINT The minimum temperatures that brake fluids will begin to boil when the brake system contains 3% water by volume of the system. DRY BOILING POINT The temperatures that brake fluid will boil with no water present in the system. MOISTURE IN THE BRAKE SYSTEM Water/moisture can be found in nearly all brake systems. Moisture enters the brake system in several ways. One of the more common ways is from using old or pre-opened fluid. Keep in mind, that brake fluid draws in moisture from the surrounding air. Tightly sealing brake fluid bottles and not storing them for long periods of time will help keep moisture out. When changing or bleeding brake fluid always replace master cylinder caps as soon as possible to prevent moisture from entering into the master cylinder. Condensation, (small moisture droplets) can form in lines and calipers. As caliper and line temperatures heat up and then cool repeatedly, condensation occurs, leaving behind an increase in moisture/water. Over time the moisture becomes trapped in the internal sections of calipers, lines, master cylinders, etc. When this water reaches 212º F the water turns to steam. Many times air in the brake system is a result of water that has turned to steam. The build up of steam will create air pressure in the system, sometimes to the point that enough pressure is created to push caliper pistons into the brake pad. This will create brake drag as the rotor and pads make contact and can also create more heat in the system. Diffusion is another way in that water/moisture may enter the system. Diffusion occurs when over time moisture enters through rubber brake hoses. The use of hoses made from EPDM materials (Ethlene-Propylene-Diene-Materials) will reduce the amount of diffusion OR use steel braided brake hose with a non-rubber sleeve (usually Teflon) to greatly reduce the diffusion process. THINGS TO REMEMBER Brake fluids dry boiling point is more important then wet boiling point when used in a racing brake system. Passenger cars very rarely will undergo a brake fluid change making the wet boiling point more important. Racing brake system fluid is changed often and a system with fresh fluid will most likely not contain water. Because of this, racers should be concerned with the dry boiling point. Racing fluid exceeds DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 dry boiling point specifications. Never use silicone based fluids in racing brake systems. Using racing brake fluid will increase performance of the braking system. Never reuse fluid. º Never mix types or brands of brake fluid. Use smaller fluid containers that can be used quicker. If fluid remains in container be sure to tightly seal and do not store for long periods of time. Purge system (complete drain) and replace fluid often. Immediately replace master cylinder reservoir cap following any maintenance.

Automotive brake fluid has many responsibilities. Corrosion protection and lubrication of brake system components are only a portion of the role brake fluid must play. All automobiles that have a hydraulic braking system must use brake fluid in order for the brake system to operate. The type of fluid used can depend on the type of vehicle and the demands of the vehicles brake system. The two most common brake fluids used in the automotive industry are fluids that contain Polyalkylene Glycol Ether and fluid that contains Silicone or Silicium-based Polymer. Both Fluids are common but very different in regards to the manner in which they perform. Fluids containing Polyalklene Glycol Ether are more widely used and are the only fluids that should be used in racing brake systems. Because brake systems may reach extreme temperatures brake fluid must have the ability to withstand these temperatures and not degrade rapidly. SILICONE BASED FLUID Fluids containing Silicone are generally used in military type vehicles and because Silicone based fluids will not damage painted surfaces they are also somewhat common in show cars. Silicone-based fluids are regarded as DOT 5 fluids. They are highly compressible and can give the driver a feeling of a spongy pedal. The higher the brake system temperature the more the compressibility of the fluid and this increases the feeling of a spongy pedal. Silicone based fluids are non-hydroscopic meaning that they will not absorb or mix with water. When water is present in the brake system it will create a water/fluid/water/fluid situation. Because water boils at approximately 212º F, the ability of the brake system to operate correctly decreases, and the steam created from boiling water adds air to the system. It is important to remember that water may be present in any brake system. Therefore silicone brake fluid lacks the ability to deal with moisture and will dramatically decrease a brake systems performance. POLY GLYCOL ETHER BASED FLUIDS Fluids containing Poly glycol ethers are regarded as DOT 3, 4, and DOT 5.1. These type fluids are hydroscopic meaning they have an ability to mix with water and still perform adequately. However, water will drastically reduce the boiling point of fluid. In a passenger car this is not an issue. In a racecar it is a major issue because as the boiling point decreases the performance ability of the fluid also decreases. Poly glycol type fluids are 2 times less compressible than silicone type fluids, even when heated. Less compressibility of brake fluid will increase pedal feel. Changing fluid on a regular basis will greatly increase the performance of the brake system. FLUID SPECIFICATIONS All brake fluids must meet federal standard #116. Under this standard is three Department of Transportation (DOT) minimal specifications for brake fluid. They are DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 (for fluids based with Polyalkylene Glycol Ether) and DOT 5 (for Silicone based fluids). MINIMAL boiling points for these specifications are as follows: Dry Boiling Point Wet Boiling Point DOT 3 401ºF 284º F DOT 4 446º F 311º F DOT 5 500º F 356º F DOT 5.1 518º F 375º F Racing brake fluids always exceeds the DOT specifications for dry boiling points. Wet boiling points generally remain the same. DOT 3 VS. DOT 4 and 5.1 AFCO's 570º brake fluid is a DOT 3 type fluid. However, it has a dry boiling point that is 52º higher than DOT 5.1 specifications, 124º higher than DOT 4 specifications and 169º higher than DOT 3 specifications. AFCO's 570º fluid meets or exceeds all DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 lubrication, corrosion protection and viscosity specifications. AFCO's 570º racing fluid meets but does not exceed federal standards for wet boiling point specification; therefore, its classification is DOT 3. Because AFCO's 570º fluid is intended for use in racing type brake systems that undergo frequent fluid changes, exceeding federal standards for wet boiling points is of little concern. Racing brake fluids always exceeds the DOT specifications for dry boiling points. Wet boiling points generally remain the same. WET VS. DRY BOILING POINT The term boiling point when used regarding brake fluid means the temperatures that brake fluid will begin to boil. WET BOILING POINT The minimum temperatures that brake fluids will begin to boil when the brake system contains 3% water by volume of the system. DRY BOILING POINT The temperatures that brake fluid will boil with no water present in the system. MOISTURE IN THE BRAKE SYSTEM Water/moisture can be found in nearly all brake systems. Moisture enters the brake system in several ways. One of the more common ways is from using old or pre-opened fluid. Keep in mind, that brake fluid draws in moisture from the surrounding air. Tightly sealing brake fluid bottles and not storing them for long periods of time will help keep moisture out. When changing or bleeding brake fluid always replace master cylinder caps as soon as possible to prevent moisture from entering into the master cylinder. Condensation, (small moisture droplets) can form in lines and calipers. As caliper and line temperatures heat up and then cool repeatedly, condensation occurs, leaving behind an increase in moisture/water. Over time the moisture becomes trapped in the internal sections of calipers, lines, master cylinders, etc. When this water reaches 212º F the water turns to steam. Many times air in the brake system is a result of water that has turned to steam. The build up of steam will create air pressure in the system, sometimes to the point that enough pressure is created to push caliper pistons into the brake pad. This will create brake drag as the rotor and pads make contact and can also create more heat in the system. Diffusion is another way in that water/moisture may enter the system. Diffusion occurs when over time moisture enters through rubber brake hoses. The use of hoses made from EPDM materials (Ethlene-Propylene-Diene-Materials) will reduce the amount of diffusion OR use steel braided brake hose with a non-rubber sleeve (usually Teflon) to greatly reduce the diffusion process. THINGS TO REMEMBER Brake fluids dry boiling point is more important then wet boiling point when used in a racing brake system. Passenger cars very rarely will undergo a brake fluid change making the wet boiling point more important. Racing brake system fluid is changed often and a system with fresh fluid will most likely not contain water. Because of this, racers should be concerned with the dry boiling point. Racing fluid exceeds DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 dry boiling point specifications. Never use silicone based fluids in racing brake systems. Using racing brake fluid will increase performance of the braking system. Never reuse fluid. º Never mix types or brands of brake fluid. Use smaller fluid containers that can be used quicker. If fluid remains in container be sure to tightly seal and do not store for long periods of time. Purge system (complete drain) and replace fluid often. Immediately replace master cylinder reservoir cap following any maintenance.

that the brake fluid is corrosive. If you spill any fluid on your car flush with plenty of water otherwise your paint will peel off.

You might also have to replace the valve guides to match the valve stem.

Another option would be to take the old hose to a auto parts store and ask the parts clerk to match the hose with something he's got in stock.

Merry Christmas guys. May St. Nicholaz bring you your Z parts.:classic:

I would leave it also. Most 4 & 5 speed gear boxes are identical in gear ratio 1-4. The fifth gear is a overdrive, which is better for gas milage. A lot of people have changed their 4 speed for a five for that overdrive. And when it comes to the differential unless it is going bad you should leave it alone, just change the gear oil. ED

Try Motorsports they have a pretty decent variety.

I think your biggest challenge is going to be to find a Zed that isn't a rust bucket. Especially in your neck of the woods. It sounds like you already made up your mind on a 240. Depending on how much you are willing to spend most of those mods your thinking about can already be part of the car. For instance a lot of people have already put a 5 speed in a 240. Wheels Tires......etc.... If you have the patience, shop around. There are still a few good Zed's around. The biggest mistake I've seen is people will spend there entire budget on the initial purchase of the car, then you won't have anything to do those mods or upgrades. Happy hunting and good luck!

Sorry, My engine is in pieces right now (It's getting rebuilt). I basically removed what I could since I didn't have to worry about emissions back in California. Question, how often do you have to take an emissions test, every year?

You bet! Most of the electronics are 30 yrs old. I started to replace most of the relays and other electical components as a preventative measure.

$400.00 the pair sounds too good to be true. Aren't they that much each? Brian, how can you tell they are fake?

Happens to me everytime. I think it's the sound of the engines. It has a hypnotizing effect.:sleep:

C'mon, I thought everyone enjoyed F1. Or are you a left turn only guy?

You will probably have to put the pump and your EGR back on.

I'd forgotten about that post. It's your VR. Replace it and your bouncing meter is no more.

I was told the same thing by a mechanic at Z-whizz in San Diego. I guess ATF is the same as 20wt (or was it 30wt?).

It was a while ago but the guy told me he did have to replace something. Don't know what for sure. But it has been working fine since so I can't complain.

Yup, just when you think your done you always end up getting more. And the earlier you start the more you spend.

On my 73 with 72 carbs I removed everything that had to do with smog. I did leave the PCV valve and the hose that goes from the top of the valve cover to the air intake. Go to the Gallery and check out some of the other members rides. You can get a pretty good idea of what you can get rid of. Most of it probably doesn't work anyway.

You could also install a Catalictic Converter on your exhaust. First you should check with your state's smog requirements. In some states a 30 year old vehicle is smog exempt. Or did I missunderstand you and you are trying to reduce / remove smog equipment currently on your car?