Ed

After my baby treats me bad I take her for a long drive. After the flawless drive I pull up in my driveway, turn her off, then I just sit there for a few, thinking........ yea, you are sweet, nice ride! Thank you....... It's worth it

Question, When I do a compression check I don't have the engine running. I pull all the plugs and just crank the engine over a couple of times until the needle on the guage doesn't move anymore. Am I doing it wrong?

You shouldn't have any problems. Take the shifter also as you might need it.

This might not help but, I thought I'd pass it on just in case. On my motorcycle. 1974 CB750. I had the same problem with the front brakes. After about 10 pumps the brakes would stay locked and get extremely hot. I finally found that the brake pad was sticking in the caliper. Maybe your shoes are sticking?

Try being on a bumpy road after 15 yrs of marrage! Not to mention the kids!:dead:

DITTO!!!

Start by making sure your distruibutor drive timing is correct. 1. Remove valve cover. 2. Remove plugs. 3. Remove cap&rotor. 4. Turn crankshaft until timing mark on crankshaft pulley lines up with 0 degree timing mark. 5. Using a flashlight look inside # 1 cylinder and make sure the piston is at Top Dead Center. 6. Now pay attention to the camshaft. Make sure that the # 1 valve lobes are both pointed up so that the intake and the exhaust valves are closed. If not then rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees. From here check to make sure your "dizzy" (rotor) is pointed in the right direction. From the drivers side (in the U.S.) looking at the motor. If the front of the car is 9 o'clock and the passenger front wheel is 12 o'clock then the dizzy should point halfway between 11 and 12 o'clock. (Not 100 percent on that correct me if I need it guys). With the wide side on the left.

Becareful the wife doesn't find out.

Sealer is not required but I've noticed that some shops put some of that copper high-temp sealer on the gasket. If you are using headers then a sealer might help maintain the seal. I don't know about you guys but those "special" gaskets from MSA for headers seem to develop cracks. I think we have discussed this one before.

It's gonna depend on what get's done: PARTS: belts plugs hoses cables points cap rotor condenser gaskets filters fluids? Add that to about $60.00+ an hour labor. If you can do any of these yourself you would save a couple of bucks.

Nice, now that looks and sounds like a nice clean car. We gotta see some more pics.

If you applied some of this stuff to the outside skin of the door wouldn't it retain moisture?

You can get gear oil at any automotive supply store. It is usually a 80-90w. I used a synthetic oil in mine and haven't had any problems.

My car has the exact same welds.:classic:

Maybe you should spend your money wisely and upgrade the suspension components first. Remember you must also be able to stop. Get a reliable solid running car. Then when you have the time and money buy that engine stand and slowly build yourself an engine.

I've been contemplating using Dynamat myself. I'm not to that stage yet I'm still shopping for the best stuff. How do you like it so far? Any complaints? Did you get the Dynamat super? I think that's what it's called, the one that's aluminized on both sides? Any suggestions? Let us know how you like it.

Actually I guess I got lucky. The only bad rust I had was at the end of the frame rails as you can see in my gallery. In other places (rear tail light area) there was only surface rust that cleaned up real easy.

As with anything electirical you have to trace the wires back and use a volt meter to find the culprit. Either a relay a fuse a connection or a wire. It's a process of elemination. Start at the fuse box and see if it's getting power for your windows. By the way what year is your Z?

A five speed swap is the way to go. Its like adding an overdrive to your car. The first four speeds are pretty much the same. If you want to know what the exact ratio is then do a search for gear ratios and you will find what you need. As to the modifiacations, you might have to alter (bend) the shifter. Some will hit the transmission tunnel. I'm not sure which year shifter will provide you with the required clearance but you can always modify. Oh yea, everything is a direct bolt on. Be safe.

For a quick fix you should atleast check the head for bent valves. This is maybe why they were sticking in the first place. No telling if the piston was damaged without pulling it. It could have gotten a small crack. Then again it might be fine a 50-50 gamble. I would get the head working right put it all back together and if she works she works.:classic: And if she blows:cry: . Then you can get your ATK. Good luck

I thought I could smell burning rubber up here in NY.:classic:

Most of the sheet metal is .032 which I think is about 19-20 guage. I bought some sheet metal that measured .040 and it was called 18 guage. I would think anything thicker would be too hard to work.

Looks great! I tell you, if you want something done right you gotta do it yourself!

Make sure when you put it all back together that you have the timing set correctly. This includes crankshaft, cam and the distributor shaft.