Ed

I pulled my engine & tranny last month. I stripped it down about the same as you. I bolted the front of my chain to the holes up by the # 1 spark plug used a grade 8 bolt. The rear of my chain I used one of the exhaust manifold bolts. Engine and tranny no problem. Set the balance so the rear hangs about lower than the front. Should come out with out any problems.

Definately a tough question. After being married for 14 years I want both but can only get one.

If everything else mentioned is o.k. check your float level.

I don't get it. I understand that we all like to make something that has never been done before. But WTF! This guy probably put the rest of the corvette on his daytona.

I thought it kind of looked like a cobra as well. Hmmm, Cut those fenders off redo the front and whalla a clown driving a cobra/mg.:classic: :stupid:

:sick: , .

Sorry I can't help you. I don't know a thing about them webers. But it does sound like a fuel problem. Good luck.

Give us a little more info like, what kind of engine, which carbs, what is the timing set at? Did the engine go through a complete rebuild and are you sure the timing is correct?

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to keep my gas tank clean and rust free while I restore my car. I took the tank off and drained it. Now it's sitting on the shelf. I was wondering, if I do nothing will it rust on the inside? What should I do?

Don't ignore it. Not only will it clog your filter it could clog your pump. The small chips of paint will work there way into the pump and accumulate. seizing the pump and breaking the drive. Clean that pan!

I've been away for a while and was sad to hear about your accident. Good to hear that your O.K. Keep your chin up. Glad your back!:classic:

I remember a thread a while back that started "Guess what this is?" It was a picture of a 240 with the supra twin turbo. So I would guess it does fit. Can't remember much more than that. Good Luck.

Just wanted to say, Thanks! To all you guys that went to the MSA show and posted your pics. I didn't get to make it this year but I sure do love those pictures.

My Z, before I took her apart:cry: would handle like it was on rails. Wet or Dry. I would seriously have to push her real hard to break traction. Then is was usually the front that would push. My tires are Yokohama 215/60 14 rear and 195/60 14 front.

You must remember the car is 30 years old and anything that is made of rubber that has not been replaced within the last 5 years will probably need to be replaced and I mean EVERYTHING. The gas tank is another place you should pay attention to. I don't know of any tricks to see if it's full of rust or what. Check out the brakes too. If the body looks like it's in good shape and not all banged up. And the interior is all there then go for it. It's hard to find a Z that doesn't require some work. But most importatant is you've got to have a solid body to start with. While you do the engine, work on the suspension, tires and brakes. The interior and paint can wait. First make the car safe to drive then work on her looks. Most important of all is have fun!

WOW!!! That's one good looking paint job!!! Is that the Persimon 110? How much did you pay if you don't mind me asking? :love:

If your car is sliding around on wet roads you could try a few things. First make sure you are not braking in a turn. Have the allignment checked to make sure everything is rolling properly. Next check your tire pressure. Try around 30psi to start with and see how that feels. Have you had your car lowered? Stiffer suspension won't handle real well on wet roads. Besides that maybe you could try something I learned up here in snow country, throw a couple of sand bags in the back orf your car for extra weight.

Awsome!! I love it when those guys at the "back" gets up front. Now if Mark can finish.:classic:

Hang in there!

I'm having a mental block right now so someone help me. Dero behind the timing cover there is a shaft that goes from the crankshaft to the distributor. On the lower end is a gear with teeth and on the other end is a flat screw driver looking tooth that turns the distributor. Make sure that this shaft is properly set. One tooth off in either direction will produce the symptoms you are describing.

Like 2many said, Make sure the car is worth fixin before you buy it. Check her out especially the floor pans. If you have some rust already I guarantee you will find more. Z's are fairly easy to work on and most parts are still available. But do remember that All Z's are 20-30 years old. They will require a steady budget to keep her running. I'm not trying to discourage you just make sure you know what your getting.

It would really help us if you could pin point where the sound is coming from. It might be a bearing but unless you can pin point it who knows which one. Take a long screw driver phillips or flat tip it doesn't matter the longer the better. Place the tip of the screw driver against a stable piece of metal close to a bearing while the engine is running (watch out for that fan!) put it as close to the bearing as you can. Check the alternator, water pump, air pump & A/C. Next put your ear against the handle of the screw driver and listen. Move the screw driver around to different parts and listen. Basically you are using the screw driver like a stethascope. Eventually you will find where the whine is coming from.

I like HOT ROD. They usually have a lot of decent articles. I always wonder though if a Zed has a V-8 is it considered a hot rod? Or is that name reserved for American cars only?

One less ZX on the road = One more powerplant & 5 speed donor for our Z's.:classic: