Ed

Thanks guys, I definately want to get these parts plated. Paint just doesn't sound right. I needed to know what the plating is called so when I call different platers I could ask them if they do it. Maybe save me some driving around.

What's the original plating on the engine parts called? I'm talking stuff like the trouble light, screws, throttle linkage etc.. I'm not sure but is it "Zinc Chromate"?

With any tool make sure you spend the extra buck. If you buy cheap you will buy twice. Try and get a brand that has a lifetime waranty.

Well, maybe it was last month. But now it's just plain old cold. We did have a nice start to spring a couple of weeks ago. I'm talking all the way up to 60 degrees F. Break out the shorts & T-shirts. Now it's back to the cold. Today was a high of 38. I tell you what I need some sunshine. I've got my car stripped down and I don't want to work on her because it's too cold in the garage. Soon... I too am hoping for a quick resolution to the war. Maybe I'm being selfish but I'm getting pretty tired of working 12hrs a day 6 days a week. :mad: I thought I went through this already during Gulf war I. Now I'm not in the military anymore and I'm working just as much. Oh well. Gary how about some pics.:classic:

If you measure the distance between the two tie rod ends, like from lock nut to lock nut while the steering is centered, then when you put it back together the allignment won't be too far out of whack. Then you can drive it to the allignment shop and have it squared away.

Not sure if you want to do that. I see you have a 78. And in California only 73 and older are emmission exempt. Your car is not. If you did alter the vehicle it would make it impossible to sell. Or if you moved somewhere where they require annual smog checks you would be up S#*! creek without a paddle. $.02

Definately painfull to look at. Hey don't throw away that front spoiler. You could get it repaired and then you will have a spair. Just in case.

I use automatic transmission oil. I think that's a 20wt.

Speaking of valve stem height. Would anyone have the factory specs on this. I want to have the seats redone on my head and the shop was asking what the correct valve stem height is.

Just curious, during this time of war what gas is going for in your neigborhood? Here in western New York it's $1.75 a gallon of 87 octane.

This is where I hope to put the shine back in the parts.

This is what she looks like now. Naked.

There was only a little here but it definately looks like rust.

The one in front of the seat support goes through the metal. It's about 2 inches in diameter.

It's taken me a almost a week and I'm almost done (I hope). I did find some rust here are some pics.

FWIW, I ordered the 7033 cam from MSA. I talked to Bill for a bit because I was wanting the get the some specs to have the new intake seats installed properly (he didn't know). Anyway, he told me that they get over 400 orders & emails a day with only 4 sales reps. and they are VERY busy. Have any of you tried to call lately? All I get now is that automated answering system. I had to call four times in two days to get through. I tell you what, selling Z parts seems to be a good buisness.

Good to see that you got what is hopefully enough from the insurance co. to fix your car (your not going to visit earl again?) When it comes to the maintanance on your Z.... Like I tell my wife. It's either money for the maintanance or money for a car payment. I have found that a $300 dollar a month budget goes a long way when it comes for maintanance. In fact I've saved enough to make some upgrades.

Z-boi, The "power band" on your car should be between 2500-6000 rpm. Look at your rpm guage before you shift. Atleast take it to 5000 rpm.

Water will spit from the exhaust after you first start it. This is built up condensation from the atmosphere (kind of like a cold drink sweats). This will usually evaporate after the car warms up. Chances of water getting from the engine to the back of your tail pipe are pretty slim. When a head gasket goes you will usually get steam coming out of your pipe, which is not good. When you revvvedd your engine are you sure it was dust. Maybe it was a little blue smoke which is normal for an old car.

I'm thinking that your original soleniod fried. As it fried it took either a wire, connection or fuse with it. Now that you have a new unit you need to find what else it took with it. Start with a voltmeter, check the fuses and see why your not getting juice.

I like my steak medium well.:classic:

So you took the old starter with the solenoid to get tested, they told you the solenoid was shot, correct? Then they sell you a new starter with solenoid and it doesn't work?:stupid: That's gotta suck. Disconnect the the starter just the little wire going to the solenoid. Hook up a voltmeter. Negative to the ground on the starter and positive to that wire. Give it a test (turn the key). If the voltmeter doesn't move then your not getting juice to the starter and it's time to figure out why. Check the connections, fuses, and wiring. Good luck.

I've been thinking MSA also, seems they have the best deal for the entire kit, (springs, pads & new rockers). They don't specify what brand of cam they sell. VB sells Crane cams. More expensive if you factor in the springs, pads & rockers. If I do order from MSA can they tell what thickness lash pad I will need by me telling them what's been done to the head?