Ed

What about a little bit of Nitrous?

This is another pic of the box that shows the engine.

This is one of those plastic models. 1:25 scale.

Kind of hard to tell. Have you had any work done on the engine prior to this? If it does it four times a second it sounds like it might be your cam scraping metal off on the rocker. Your cam oiler might have broken or come loose thus not providing oil to the cam. Pull the valve cover and do an inspection on the cam lobes and rocker pads. Turn the engine by hand and use a flash light to really check it out. Also check for anything that doesn't look like the others.

The best thing I could tell you to do is get a shop manual. Hayes, Chilton or other. They break it down for you pretty good and the manual is worth it's weight in gold.

I've got a bridge that's for sale. It's in New York city. bridge

Your talking about the thing that has two notches on it. First notch is to hold the door open halfway and the second notch is to hold the door open all the way? If so what's it doing? Is it pushing against the little wheel? Is the little wheel turning? Does it feel like it's really hard to open the door or does the door open & close without any resistance? How does everything else look? Does the door latch properly and does everything line-up?

Not to mention slow. I ordered a bunch of parts two weeks ago. I guess it's all on backorder.

If I remember correctly MSA has the spring compressor. I also remember it wasn't cheap. You might be able to get away using a large screwdriver, using the cam as a lever push the valve spring down far enough to put the rocker back on. First make sure you turn down the bolt used to adjust the gap. It's the one on the passenger side that has a bald round head. A 17mm wrench will loosen the lock nut and a 14mm will turn down the bolt. Also make sure you lash pad is still in place. From there you will need your manual to properly adjust all your valve clearances.

I have taken the glove box out before when I was replacing the clock. Talk about a pain in the a**. I was just hoping to avoid damaging it more. I guess I'll try with out removing it first.

In Wick Humble's book on "How to Restore your Datsun" on page 74 he says the first thing is to remove the glove box. Is this procedure necessary to remove the dash? I already have the wire harness that goes to the engine & rear of the car out. Also the heater controls and the A/C. I think I'm almost ready to try and remove the dash when I noticed this in the book.

How long are you going to Hong Kong for? We keep hearing of Z's that spend 10-15 years in a barn and surviving. I think If you prep her right then with a little work when you get back, Hmmm???? I went through the same thing when I got sent to Okinawa for 4 years. I missed my baby and when I got back I wished I still had her. I guess it all depends on how long your going away for.

Mike, when you buy the extraction tool buy the biggest one that will fit. What I mean is lets say the bolt is 6 mm wide. Don't drill it with a 1/8 drill bit and use a tiny little extraction tool. Use a drill bit almost the same diameter as the bolt, this way you can use an extractor that is as big as possible.

On some of the factory sound deadaning(sp) material on the inside I've noticed that after I tap it with a hammer a few times it detaches from the body, thus making it come off in large pieces. I actually found this out when I was banging away at the floor boards in an effort to try and straighten them.

Atleast it all matches.

Thanks guys, I definately want to get these parts plated. Paint just doesn't sound right. I needed to know what the plating is called so when I call different platers I could ask them if they do it. Maybe save me some driving around.

What's the original plating on the engine parts called? I'm talking stuff like the trouble light, screws, throttle linkage etc.. I'm not sure but is it "Zinc Chromate"?

With any tool make sure you spend the extra buck. If you buy cheap you will buy twice. Try and get a brand that has a lifetime waranty.

Well, maybe it was last month. But now it's just plain old cold. We did have a nice start to spring a couple of weeks ago. I'm talking all the way up to 60 degrees F. Break out the shorts & T-shirts. Now it's back to the cold. Today was a high of 38. I tell you what I need some sunshine. I've got my car stripped down and I don't want to work on her because it's too cold in the garage. Soon... I too am hoping for a quick resolution to the war. Maybe I'm being selfish but I'm getting pretty tired of working 12hrs a day 6 days a week. :mad: I thought I went through this already during Gulf war I. Now I'm not in the military anymore and I'm working just as much. Oh well. Gary how about some pics.:classic:

If you measure the distance between the two tie rod ends, like from lock nut to lock nut while the steering is centered, then when you put it back together the allignment won't be too far out of whack. Then you can drive it to the allignment shop and have it squared away.

Not sure if you want to do that. I see you have a 78. And in California only 73 and older are emmission exempt. Your car is not. If you did alter the vehicle it would make it impossible to sell. Or if you moved somewhere where they require annual smog checks you would be up S#*! creek without a paddle. $.02

Definately painfull to look at. Hey don't throw away that front spoiler. You could get it repaired and then you will have a spair. Just in case.

I use automatic transmission oil. I think that's a 20wt.

Speaking of valve stem height. Would anyone have the factory specs on this. I want to have the seats redone on my head and the shop was asking what the correct valve stem height is.

Just curious, during this time of war what gas is going for in your neigborhood? Here in western New York it's $1.75 a gallon of 87 octane.