Ed

This is what she looks like now. Naked.

There was only a little here but it definately looks like rust.

The one in front of the seat support goes through the metal. It's about 2 inches in diameter.

It's taken me a almost a week and I'm almost done (I hope). I did find some rust here are some pics.

FWIW, I ordered the 7033 cam from MSA. I talked to Bill for a bit because I was wanting the get the some specs to have the new intake seats installed properly (he didn't know). Anyway, he told me that they get over 400 orders & emails a day with only 4 sales reps. and they are VERY busy. Have any of you tried to call lately? All I get now is that automated answering system. I had to call four times in two days to get through. I tell you what, selling Z parts seems to be a good buisness.

Good to see that you got what is hopefully enough from the insurance co. to fix your car (your not going to visit earl again?) When it comes to the maintanance on your Z.... Like I tell my wife. It's either money for the maintanance or money for a car payment. I have found that a $300 dollar a month budget goes a long way when it comes for maintanance. In fact I've saved enough to make some upgrades.

Z-boi, The "power band" on your car should be between 2500-6000 rpm. Look at your rpm guage before you shift. Atleast take it to 5000 rpm.

Water will spit from the exhaust after you first start it. This is built up condensation from the atmosphere (kind of like a cold drink sweats). This will usually evaporate after the car warms up. Chances of water getting from the engine to the back of your tail pipe are pretty slim. When a head gasket goes you will usually get steam coming out of your pipe, which is not good. When you revvvedd your engine are you sure it was dust. Maybe it was a little blue smoke which is normal for an old car.

I'm thinking that your original soleniod fried. As it fried it took either a wire, connection or fuse with it. Now that you have a new unit you need to find what else it took with it. Start with a voltmeter, check the fuses and see why your not getting juice.

I like my steak medium well.:classic:

So you took the old starter with the solenoid to get tested, they told you the solenoid was shot, correct? Then they sell you a new starter with solenoid and it doesn't work?:stupid: That's gotta suck. Disconnect the the starter just the little wire going to the solenoid. Hook up a voltmeter. Negative to the ground on the starter and positive to that wire. Give it a test (turn the key). If the voltmeter doesn't move then your not getting juice to the starter and it's time to figure out why. Check the connections, fuses, and wiring. Good luck.

I've been thinking MSA also, seems they have the best deal for the entire kit, (springs, pads & new rockers). They don't specify what brand of cam they sell. VB sells Crane cams. More expensive if you factor in the springs, pads & rockers. If I do order from MSA can they tell what thickness lash pad I will need by me telling them what's been done to the head?

Have you tried using some jumpers directly to the starter?

Just curious, I'm getting ready to buy an aftermarket cam. Mostly for street but definately modified. What would you suggest? And where can I get it. So far my options are Motorsports or V.B.

Turn the headlights on and turn it over. Do the headlights dim when you try to start? If not it might be the starter. If it turns over but won't start it might be something else. And if the headlights go dim when you try to start it, it's a dead battery.

I'm using Spinas Engine shop in Ransomville. He mainly deals with race engines and he was recommended by the Nissan dealer. I went to go and check out his work and shop, so far I'm happy. He's been working on my head now, which was pretty bad. I'll let you know how it turns out after I get the seats done.

Since you are new to this and if you still feel that there is something wrong with your car my advice would be to take it to a shop. Go to someone that has experience working on Z's. Some shop's will let you go with your car and see what the mechanic is doing. I usually never ask and just walk back there as the mechanic is getting ready to tinker on my car. Then I stay out of his way and start asking questions. You could learn so much in twenty minutes. If there is nothing wrong then you pay a little. Usually just a diagnostic check. If he does a little work on it, it's usually about $50 an hour. It's well worth the education.

Jeff you said you had oil dripping out of the header. I assume that there is no exhaust on it. Just a header? And does is smoke pretty bad when you first start it up? Or does it smoke the whole time?

2many, wouldn't the pressure from the exhaust prevent oil seeping down the exhaust guide?

The only thing I could think of is if your 260 has a rear anti-sway bar and the 240 didn't. Reason being in my 240 I had a custom 2.5" exhaust made. At the time I didn't have the sway bar. A few months later I added the sway bar and it rubbed against the exhaust. Nothing a BFH couldn't fix.

Shotime, what part of NY are you in? I'm currently getting a head done over here on the west side. New seats & guides plus a shave.

I don't know about soldering anything inside the distributor. If that little bit of solder were to break free it would really bugger things up underneath. First off the job of the capacitor is to "absorb" the spark that would normally appear at the points. If you didn't run a capacitor then the spark at the points would eventually make the points pit making them useless. Get the points, capacitor, cap & rotor and spark plugs either from the nissan dealer or give Motorsports a call. Motorsports is in the Los Angeles area and they should be able to get you your parts within a few days. When you install them do one thing at a time. Pop the cap off the distributor. Pull the rotor off. Loosen and remove the points. One screw is to hold it in place the other is for the adjustment. Remove and replace the capacitor. It fits only one way so make sure you get it right. Install the new points, make sure they sit right. The wire from the condenser should fit like a glove onto the points. Next set the gap on the points. Tighten up the screws. Insert the new rotor. It has a tooth for correct allignment so make sure you have it right (look underneath). When replacing the cap I find it easiest to hold the new cap next to the one still in the car. Look at the little teeth on the side of the cap and make sure you have them the same. Do a dry fitting to make sure it will fit the distributor properly. Now replace one wire at a time so you don't get them buggerd up. Now replace the spark plugs. Cross your fingers and if you did it all correctly it should start right up. Finish off by setting the timing and your off!

Way to go Dero, just drop some cash into your Z to make her reliable!!!! When you do get the parts for her make sure you get quality japanese replacement parts. Don't go gettin Bosch or other foreign parts. The car is japanese and it requires japanese parts. IE.. NGK, Nippon Denso etc...

Looks like it's in a Z.