Ed

Try doing a search on this subject. I remember a couple of posts recommending a product a while back.

That's what I keep hearing. Man I tell you it's tough not being able to drive my car. I got so used to southern california weather where I drove my Zed every day. Now I just dream of cruizing down that long highway, radio playing that tune, Z purring:cry: . Mother nature better get spring here quick! My neighbors are starting to think I'm a freek, they see me push my Zed out of the garage start her up and then I sit inside for about 1/2 hour. Sometimes I'll drive up & down the driveway.

To have a head re-worked. Like new seats and guides. I'm just trying to get an idea of how much this will cost so I can butter up the wife.

So is this what a rusted through header looks like?

Another thing you should do is replace the stud bolts. These get brittle with age and sooner or later will break. Yea it's pretty cold up here (a big difference from San Diego). I think the high today was about twelve . My poor Z hasn't been outside in a while:cry: :cry: .

By any chance have you noticed steam coming out of your exhaust after the car has warmed up? If it is a bad head gasket, coolant will leak into the cylinder and end up as steam out the tail pipe. And vice versa pressure will build up in the radiator from the cylinder causing your coolant pressure to get too high and leaking out the overflow.

I've heard people using both kinds of gaskets with positive results. Personally I used the MSA "special" gasket and it developed pin size cracks after a couple of months. Next time I replace it I believe I will coat the gasket with that High-temp copper silicone stuff. The other type gasket I've heard people use is the metal core type.

I believe it is a brand name. Kind of like Holley is to carburators or Good Year is to tires.

I guess I'm not that far away. Hello there neighbors!!

What should one expect to pay to have the seats and guides replaced on a head (The head IS off the block)?

I must agree with most of your pics also. It definately looks like you did your homework. I lucked out and got a wrecked 81 non turbo. Ended up with the engine & tranny for $100 bucks. The rear end I'd keep a R-180, from what I've heard unless you plan to put some unreal amount of power to the pavement the R-180 can hold up to almost anything. I talked to a guy who builds drag cars out of Z's in Califoria. He puts a chevy big block in there and he said that the R-180 holds up no problem.

Is that 126HP on a stock L24 with round tops?

Since were talking about seats. My 73 does not have the "vents" in the back. I'm talking about the four quarter size screen looking things that would be around your lower back while seated. I thought maybe my seats were some cheap reproduction but they look fairly stock.

What's a "used english wheel"?

I've got a F54 that is ready to put back together. I had the opportunity to weigh the piston/rods the other day and decided, why not. I weighed the piston, rod, cap, bearings & bolts as an assembly. The heaviest was 2 lbs 14.15 oz. and the lightest was 2lbs 13.95 oz. is this difference big enough to have the engine balanced. I was just going to put it all together and not give balancing a second thought but after seeing this?????? What do you guys think? I'm not planning anything drastic with this engine 6k rev limit N/A. Street use. Should I get it balanced?

If a 280 can fetch 10,000 imagine what our 240's can go for.:classic:

You definately need those if you have a boat.

I just finished doing my basement too. I used the cheap 18 dollar stuff to see how it works. So far it looks great and it does make it easier to clean spills. If it holds up I might use it for the garage. Thanks for the sand idea.

You can alligator clip it directly to the battery 12v.

I was looking at different types of garage floor paint and I've seen a variety of brands and prices. The cheapest starts at about 18 dollars a gallon from Home Depot all the way to a 250 dollars for a kit that is supposed to do a 2 1/2 car garage. U Coat it . I don't mind spending the 250 if it is worth it. Has anybody used something else? Could you share your results/comments? Thanks

Quick get a band-aid your car is bleedingROFL

I've never actually done a roof but I have seen it done. I guess my advise would be: Measure twice cut once.:classic:

Take one last drive (weather permiting) before I begin a complete tear down. My goal for this year: 1. Strip everything off the car. 2. Get the car painted.

Has the head ever been shaved or rebuilt?

There are several free flow exhausts out there it's all what you prefer and off course $$. I'm using a flowmaster but that is just my preferance. Now the header, you probably won't notice any power gains just installing the headers by themselves. But ask anybody and they will tell you that if you plan on doing several modifications to your engine the place to start is with some headers and a free flowing exhaust. This allows the engine to breath better. After you have the exhaust done all the other mods will benefit from it. Just the exhaust will give you from 5-10 hp. not really noticable in street driving but it does make the car sound good. I do suggest that if you end up getting headers make sure you get the ones with the "Jet Hot" coating. They look good and keep your investment from rusting.