Ed

I too learn alot reading other posts. I'm getting ready to do a restoration on my car and a fuel cell has been on my mind. I'm not happy with the current stock fuel capacity. Not that there is anything wrong with my tank, but I always thought of cutting out the spare tire well and putting a 20+ gallon tank back there. I do want to maintain a "stock" appearance. Could I still get this with a fuel cell? Can you guys post some pics?

Could be two things; 1. Your 5 speed isn't new. And 2. Check to make sure that your shifter isn't hitting any part of the center console. I've heard that if you don't get the right shifter then it will bind, rub, or get obstucted by the center console which requires a little bit of cutting.

Well I still haven't attempted to fix the leak. I just stuffed a rag under the dash to catch the oil. Bizza what is this reverse feed function? Can you describe it?

I lived for a while in Charleston SC and was looking to have my rear bumper redone. I looked in the phone book under "plating" and the only place I found was a company in Charlotte, NC. I called them and they told me they would send the bumper to Wisconsin. AND there was a 16 week turn around time! So my bumper still looks the same. Sorry, I know I didn't really help, good luck.

Get yourself a SB chevy V8 crate engine (350-400hp). They are ready to go just drop it in the car. You will then have a good powerplant to start with (if you still want to get to 800hp). Upgrade the rest of the car as you add more power to the engine, remember you also have to stop the car. Your $8k will go quicker than you think. I've spent almost that much in the tires, wheels, suspension, and brakes.

Your rattle can come from three places; 1. The throw-out bearing gone bad. 2. The plastic bushings at the bottom of the lever. 3. A loose gear shift knob.

Thanks, the hood is aligned on all 3 sides. I was just having problems down by the sugar scoops. Your directions should help alot. My problem was that I moved the entire hinge down. :stupid: Thanks

Can someone recommend a head/machine shop in the western New York area.

My first thought would a combination of old, tired valve springs and rocker arm retaining springs. Valve adjustment could have been way off too. Good idea to adjust them every 10k. Adjust them and if it happens again then you might need new springs. Also check for unusual wear on the cam lobe and where it makes contact with the rocker arm.

The front end of my hood next to the headlight bucket where the hinge is, is out of allignment. The hood sits about 1/2 of an inch higher than the headlight bucket. I've tried to move the hinge but I can't get them even. What am I missing?

Victor, Nice job! I don't know if this was mentioned before but the urathane air dam will flex under high speeds. The bottom lip needs to be supported in the center. I've seen one flex up to 2-3 inches at 70 mph

John I think you hit the nail on the head.

Sounds pretty decent. Check the floor pans for rust. It does sound like he put some money into the engine. As long as it was done right you should have a sweet ride.

I understand how the centrifugal superchargers work. How does a roots type blower work?

Thanks for the feedback guys. I am going to try and reduce as much weight before I hang the car from the roof. But I'm sure there is still going to be some weight on it. I was just curious if someone had put the whole car on a rotiserie and where they put the supports to be bolted on the car.

I'm getting ready to start a restoration on my 73 Z. I am using a "rotiserie" style set-up that is suspended from a metal frame in the garage. My question is; Will the bumper supports hold the weight of the car? I do plan on taking out the engine and tranny before raising the car. I'm guessing that I'm looking at about 2,000 lbs.

Santa is bringing me a brand new air compressor.

Victor, I've reused rod bolts in my motorcycle engine with no problems. I'm sure I'll get scolded for doing it. I do know that the best insurance for a rebuild is new bolts. Spend the money and play it safe.

My 73 did the same thing. It slowly got worse. I also had some white powder developing on the battery terminals indicating an overcharge. A new voltage regulator took care of the amp guage.

Do a forum search for "weatherstripping". I'm sure I've read about this problem before. Not sure what the repair is. Good luck.

How come no one has mentioned a well built L28 with a little NOS?

First figure out if it is the engine or the wheels. While driving and you have the noise going press the clutch and let the engine go to idle. If the noise persists then the wheels or the drivetrain is the culprit. Give it some gas while your holding in the clutch, bring it to about 3500 rpm then let it drop back to idle. If the noise comes and goes with the rpm then it would definately be the engine. Check all rotating items alternator, water pump, cooling fan etc... Let us know what you find out. Good luck

So, when you take one piece at a time do you have each piece blasted, primed and painted?

What can I say, I learned this "fix" from the Mechanics that service our fleet at work. They are always having the "Check Engine" light come on in the Ford Expeditions. The fix.....tape. Oh well .

Pull your plugs after the car has sat overnight. They should be the same dark copper or dark grey color. And they should be dry. Sounds like maybe your valve seals are shot. Oil leaks down into the combustion chamber and fouls your plugs. It runs fine after all the oil burns off. Speaking of burning oil. How much oil does your engine use, do you have to add a quart every 1,000 miles or so?