Ed

I like phi22b@ck's suggestion.

I use a 180 degree thermostat and my guage reads between the "E" and the "M".

I've never done it but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Just make sure that you have the car raised high enough to clear the engine on a jack. I'd say close to three feet, or one meter.

Look in your local phone book in the automotive section, you should find something in the speedometer or electronic repair section.

I just saw my first 350Z commercial on the tube. They show all the Z's from the 240 to the 300. What a ride! It was really exihilarating seeing a 240 on a tv commercial. WOW!! Then out of nowhere my daughter says "Daddy I like your Z because it was the original"! YYYYEEAA!! BABY!!! :classic: :classic: :classic: WOOOHOOO!

all you need is to add a resinator to your current system. That should quiet it down and give it a deeper tone.

Even the diameter of the exhaust pipe makes a differance. If you use 2 1/2 vs 2 1/4. If you do get headers do yourself a favor and spend the extra bucks and get the "Jet Hot coating". It's worth the money! It preserves the pipes (from rust) and allways looks good.

It's on a 73.

Let us know if there is a big differance in braking performance. I wouldn't mind doing the upgrade myself if indeed it would be an upgrade. I thought the stock calipers did a pretty good job.

I posted this one before but I guess that it got lost in the crash. I'm looking for the little sticker that goes on the center console under the light for the choke. Has anybody been able to get one and from where? (2ManyZs) I e-mailed Mike at Bonzai he said no.

I hope that some car rental company picks this one up. So I can rent one for a couple of days! I'll probably fall in with her only to have my heart broken when I have to take her back. Oh well, I guess that is when I'll take a second on the house.:classic:

Hey Mike, I'd like to volunteer to help out. I can't say I have any experiance in any of the fields you mentioned but I'm sure there is something I can do. Ed

When I engage my turn signal it takes about 1-2 seconds before the lights actually come on and the relay starts to click. With my other car (Chevy) when I hit the turn signal it turns on immediately. Is this normal for the Zed or is my relay bad?

I've been thinking of this since I saw the Vortech Blower To me it looks like a belt driven turbo. Which leads me to my question. Would it be possible to get a used turbo, modify it to be belt driven then mount it on a NA L28 with SU's. I was thinking of forcing the air into the stock intake air cleaner. Would this work? Would there still be enough vacuum for the brakes and the vacuum advance? Could you put a blower on a L28 with flat top pistons and a N42 head or would the compression be to high? Hmmmm???

My tach did the same thing. Slowly got worse until it quit one day. Had it worked on at a tach repair shop $40 bucks later she's all together and working again.

I'm going to assume you have the engine out of the car, and on a stand. With the engine up side down, con-rods and everything else removed. With the main bolts removed you have the bearing caps still in place and that is what you still need to remove. Start at the front of the engine, do one at a time. Tap the cap on the sides where the bolt goes, tap toward the rear with a rubber mallet or something else that won't score or scratch the metal ( I used the butt of a hammer with a rubber grip). The bearing cap should lean towards the rear just a little. Insert a flat tip screw driver between the cap and the block and gently pry the cap out of its place. Be carefull not to scratch the crank journal. You can tap the cap forward and back to loosen it up. This will work for all caps except the center cap and the rear cap. These have a bolt hole in the center. Insert the proper size bolt into the hole. Use a bolt atleast 5-6 inches long. Wrap a rag around the bolt and start by trying to wiggle the cap back and forth. It takes a little work to get these loose but once it gets going you can use the flat tip screw driver to pry it out. MAKE SURE YOU MARK EACH CAP SO THAT THEY GO BACK IN THE SAME PLACE. Number them from 1-7. After you have all the caps out the crank should lift straight out. Be careful with it, IT IS HEAVY. I hope that helps.:classic:

I don't know if you can find a cheaper one somewhere else. Motorsports sells factory Nissan parts (OEM) and they fit properly. My philosophy is "Buy cheap, Buy twice".

My car did the same thing. When I would get on the gas it would clunk. If I would let off the gas it would clunk again. I had replaced all my rubber in the back and used poly where available. Upon closer inspection I noticed that the nut on one side of the mustache bar had come loose. I replaced the nut and the clunk is gone. Sounds like you have the same problem. Check it out. Your car should not clunk.

I'm wondering what does the interior look like? If it's as bad as the exterior you might offer less. Like about $6-700. Check it out good. She definately looks like a project in need of LOTS of tlc.

I've seen it at most automotive parts stores. They ususally keep it with the other silicone sealant's. The temp rating should be on the tube.

5 speed is the way to go.

Replacing the tach is fairly easy IF you can reach the two butterfly nuts on the back side, under the dash, way in there. You have to lay on the floor head resting on the brake pedal. Spray a little WD-40 on the nuts before you get started and let it soak. Once you get the nuts off the tach pulls right out.

Not too sure but it sounds like it's either the tach the coil or both. Since the tach runs off of the coil it might be the coil. My tach went bad and bounced around for a while, steady at times and then it would go nuts. I couldn't feel any miss in the engine. Cost me about 40 bucks to get it fixed. Coils are cheap, wouldn't hurt to do some preventative maintanance.

Too bad you didn't find a bunch of money.

You could also try your local Nissan Dealer. Or call MSA (Motorsports Auto) in California at 1800 633-6331.