Ed

In the stock "mode" there is no rear wheel adjustment. There are however some aftermarket products that will allow you to change the rear end geometry. FWIW when I take my car for an allignment I tell them to do all four. And I ask for a print out of the results. This is good information to hold on to incase you ever decide to make suspension modifications.

Please post some pictures of the event. I'm really interested in the size of the Z community in Miami.

Great add Rick, Good luck. Here is the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240z-1971-DATSUN-240Z-Z-260Z-280Z-260-280-240-MINT-Excellent_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQitemZ280001062634QQrdZ1 Edit: Rick, you probably already know but the pictures won't get any bigger than 20x20.

I've got the battery operated mask it uses two AAA's. I can't see these two little batteries effecting the weight very much. But it did suck when the batteries died and I was all ready to weld. Good thing the remote to the TV had the same batteries.

Some members have used a mid 80's Mazda RX7 fuel pump. 4-5 psi is the pressure your looking for (if you still have SU carbs). Do a search on Mazda fuel pumps and you will come up with the correct year.

I put the fender washer on the inside to prevent the bolt from leaving a "dent" in the sheet metal. Another tip before you put the bumpers back on is to put some masking tape all around the area, just in case the bumper slips it won't chip your paint.

Don't spend all that money on those rubber pieces. Go to your local hardware store and get some fender washers and some rubber washers of the same size. You will save a bundle! Sorry for the blurry picture but I think you can tell what I'm talking about.

I'm trying to clean up the way my A/C lines are ran inside the passenger cabin. I'm talking about the lines that go from the firewall to the evaporator under the passenger side of the dash. On my car they ran under the evaporator. This looks kind of messy and takes away from the floor area. Is everyone's the same or are your lines in a different location?

If your car is a stock showpiece then keep it off. But if not then even a light tinting will help prevent damaging UV light from fading your carpets and seat belts or damaging plastic components.

I'm no pro at this but I think that a 20 minute drive before the test is not enough to warm everything up. Also unless your running a high compression engine the 91 octane will not burn completely. 87 or lower is your friend here. Also I'm not sure which state your in but you should always take your car to a place that will do a pre-test. This is where they test the vehicle's emmisions without sending the results to the DMV.

IMO the only thing pumping up the $ on this auction is the tripple carbs and the Robello motor.

At first glance it looks like a nice car. But look at the strut bolts in the engine bay, rust. What does the undercarrage look like? If it's a solid car with minimal surface rust then 10-12k would be a good price.

How about splitting it down the middle, 3 weeks. AND I want to thank you Will for taking the time to do these polls. Your doing a great job! THANKS! Ed

Awesome find. Any interest in selling those mudflaps?

It looks like a "general" kit for several cars. I'll try and break down the lengths you will need for individual places. If I remember right, and I'm going from memory here so someone else help me out. Does your 72 have the proportioning valve in the engine bay or at the rear of the vehicle? I'll go with the valve in the engine bay. I'll give generous estimates. Passenger front to valve = 50" Driver front to warning light switch = 24" From master cylinder to warning light switch x 2 = 12" each From warning light switch to valve x 2 = 12" each From valve to 3 way connector by diff = 96" From 3 way to driver rear = 36" From 3 way to passenger rear = 24" Total = 278" or 23' more or less. Hope this is what your looking for.

Sorry, I feel like I'm being left out. I took my domes and had them polished .

Thanks for clearing this up Arne, I couldn't remember how much fluid to use, I do remember it wasn't much and it makes a mess if you use too much.

They are probably talking about adding about 1/2 cup tranny fluid to the strut tube before you insert the strut cartridge. I don't think you will find this information in any manual. The reason for doing this is it the fluid helps disipate the heat that is created by the strut during operation. The fluid acts as a conductor spreading the heat to the strut housing. It also acts as a rust inhibitor. Do a search and you will find several threads about the subject.

Here is a place to start: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-THRU-1974-DATSUN-NISSAN-REAR-QUARTER-PANELS-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6763QQitemZ8070541946QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

You have a great collection. I guess you can say you got bit hard by the Z bug. Sorry about your "Lil' Red Rocket" she was a beaut. To answer your question, most of your 240 parts will fit, some won't. In the end you will still have a 78 280Z. Those series I parts belong on a series I. If they can't fix her then you should keep looking for a series I that is worthy of the parts you have. Just my opinion.

Before I sent my cam to be reground over at Delta they told me to look at the side of the cam. I think it was between the #2 & #3 lobes there is a casting number on the side of the cam. If I remember correctly the # 1 cam was from the earlier L24 the # 2 was better and came later 73-74 and the # 3 was the best. I'm going from memory here and it's been a while since I had my cam done so if I'm wrong here I appoligize in advance. Hopefully someone else knows what I'm talking about.

Bent valves for sure.

My 72 had one.