Ed

Haven't noticed this advertised anywhere. Ontario, Canada Z club car show August 26th, 2007. http://www.ontariozcar.com/eventz/EventCalendar/Z-FEST2007%20Flyer.pdf One of the biggest shows in the NE.

ARghhh, that blows. Well atleast you will get them sooner or later. Have you checked with MSA? Do they have a backorder? I think you should let me run them for a bit to make sure they will work properly on your car. Then once your car is ready for them I will give them back to you broken in :classic:

The officer told me that since 1992 the law changed to where the drivers and passengers windows werent able to be darker than 75%. I've had the car in NY since 2002. I tinted the windows in 2003.

I don't know what the fine is. Ticket doesn't say. My options are to plea guilty and mail in the ticket. I assume I'll get the fine afterwards. Or to plea not guilty and go to court. BTW it was night time, I had the windows rolled up and the officer drove up besides me.

I was pulled over a couple of days ago for having illegal window tint. I never really thought much about it since I've had it on for so long. The officer had a little measuring device and my tint only allowed 26% light through. In New York the minimum is 75% for the driver and passenger windows. Has anyone else been pulled over for this? Should go to court or just pay the fine?

Mine all measured the same 34mm.

Are you talking about where the manifold meets the head or valve seat area?

Without going into what head, how much has it been shaved all together etc.. try using two head gaskets. I had a +.010".

Car show go'ers beware! I entered my car at a local car show this past Saturday. Never been to this show, first time, I figured why not. I've been doing pretty good at other shows elsewhere. My first sign should have been the twenty (20) classes with NO imports. Here they are: 1. 1900 - 1988 Prod. 11. Comm Modified 2. 1988- present Prod. 12. Modified 1900 to 1979 3. 1955-57 Chevy Prod. 13. Stock Prod. Muscle 1964-70 4. 19790-Pres. Mustang prod 14. Stock Prod. Muscle 1971-Present 5. Corvette Prod. C1 C2 15. Steet Rods all Years 6. Corvette Prod C3 16. Street Stock all Years 7. Corvette Prod C4 17. Modified 1980-present 8. Corvette Prod. C5 C6 18. Comm Production 4x4 all years 9. Mustang Prod Pre 1970 19. 1971- Comm Prod 10. Pre 1970 Comm Production 20. Special Interest Yea, it seemed pretty biased. But, there were 2 VW bugs a Nissan sentra ricer, a BMW convertable a Triumph spitfire and my Z. None of the foreign cars won anything. Zip, Nada. And they were all pretty nice looking especially the bugs, they looked like they just came off the assembly line. Anyway I'll never go to another show that doesn't have an import class. Bahhh, I'm off my soapbox now.

Wow, all "no's" so far. I like the clear vinyl idea. IIRC you cut to fit then wet the body surface with water apply the vinyl and squeege it out.

I don't know. What do you all think should I put them on or not? They are polished aluminum.

Thanks guys, I kind of figured as much. Good to hear that it's normal.:classic:

I pull the choke back about 1/2 way and she starts just fine. If I drive her right away she will buck a little and run pretty rough. After she warms up she runs great, idles at about 800 rpm. No choke needed to restart. Some of the modifications I've done: MSD 6AL ignition and blaster coil. Which made a huge improvement. 81 ZX distributor with the 12-80 module. The carbs are Ztherapy rebuilds (about 7 years old and +-30k miles). Mild grind cam with a 270 duration. Done by delta cam. No clue which needles are in the carbs. I'm trying to improve my idle while the engine is cold. I feel I have to baby sit her while she warms up. Giving a bit of throttle every now and again, lowering the choke. The carbs have been recently balanced and my air/fuel is about 12.5:1 Any suggestions? Ed

Give me a yell when your ready for the rubber boot that goes around the harness on the firewall by the battery tray. I have them.

Nope, you can use a single piston from a different engine. But before you use it, it must be measured, weighed, and balanced along with the other pistons. So that all 6 pistons are the same weight and have the same dimentions.

Just pulled this off another post. http://www.drivetrain.com/nissian4_5sprwd.html

I hope you took a minute to lube your bolts with some anti-seize. This will prevent the bolts from rusting onto the block and breaking in the future. Also you should remove your alternator while your down there and make sure that all the bolts and pivots are lubricated so she will loosen up easy next time.

Sounds a little confusing, do you have any more symptoms? Have you started her since? Sound like a good carb tune up in in order.

Nate, Depending on the type of work you intend to do will determine the type of grinder you will need. If you intend to cut and grind away rust in those small areas your mentioning then a 3" high speed grinder is all you will need. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93157 You can buy all kind of attachements for the 1/4" arbor. Cutters, grinders, and polishers. High speed and small to acomplish the small job. If your intention is to do some serious body work, like a fender or an entire door then a D/A will be something more your speed. The more area you want to work on the larger the contact area. Ed p.s. How's the little one?

You can pull the drain plug, there is a magnet attached to it. If there are metal pieces attached then you know you've got bad internals.

It's only a bad idea to mix pistons when you use only one or two pistons from a different engine and not balance them. If you use all 6 pistons you will not have a problem. This is because the pistons are balanced to be similar to the others in the set. You should pick your six best pistons and rods (from both engines). The crank, crankshaft pulley, flywheel, and pressure plate. Have the entire rotating assembly balanced. Also inspect your original block to make sure that the seized bearing didn't spin in the bearing seat. Otherwise your looking at either using oversized bearings or having the block welded and allign honed.

Sweet, I'll have to put this on my calendar.

I did the same. Almost 2 years now still holding strong.

I did the same thing, once. A long, long time ago. Almost killed the battery trying to star the car. Until I remembered the switch. :stupid:

I used the same stuff as Beandip. I applied it to the roof and put the headliner over it. This was two years ago and she is still holding strong. I also applied it to the outer skin on my doors. First I POR-15'd the inside then applied the sound deadning matterial.