Ed

I'v got a spare regulator sitting in my shop. I'll be more than glad to help you out. First, are the earlier and later models the same 70-78? Is there a special way of removing it? I'll pull the spindle later today. Give me a PM with your mailing information. Ed

I'm not trying to be a pain here but if you don't know what TDC means then you have no buisness working on an engine. $.02 GO READ YOUR MANUAL

Well, better late than never but I solved the earlier problem. It was a cheap relay that was not working properly. New relay and she's working fine. On another note if anyone is doing the power door lock upgrade I've attached a templete of the bracket I made along with a picture. To do the other side you just reverse it. That's why the picture doesn't match the templet. Cut the templete and flip it to do the other side. I started with some aluminum sheet metal I can't remember the guage but it measures .030. I cut it with tin snips. After it's bent remove the two screws on the back side of the door that hold the window frame, above the latch. Loosten the other two. And remove the door handle. The bracket slides behind the window frame. Mark the holes for the two screws and drill with a 1/2 bit. Hope it helps. If somone has a different set up, share it. Here is a link to pictures of the actuator installed. templete.bmp

I've never heard of this. Possible? Maybe. But when the engine "sucks" the intake valve is usually open. In my car I've got 150psi in all six. 9.65:1 compression and I have no eating oil problems.

Read your shop manual a couple of times and go through the assembly process in your head. Setting your timing, reinstalling your cam, assembling the head and setting your sprockets and chain are all covered. How much was removed from the head? If more than .30 was removed from the original surface you will need to shim the cam towers.

Thanks for correcting me guys. I went with what the body shop told me before I had my car painted.

I think the original paint was a lacquer.

What concerns me is that you have build up on your plugs. If the valve was not leaking oil then where is the oil coming from that is fouling your plugs? Try installing some new plugs. Drive your car for about 20 minutes until everything is nice and hot. When you pull in to your parking spot rev the engine to about 3k and turn it off at 3k. Check the color of your plugs they should all be a nice cool grey color and hot so be careful . If any are darker or black you might have a air/fuel mixture problem. Especially if 1-3 are a different color than 4-6. Next let the engine sit overnight and check the plugs again. Are any of the plugs wet? Your compression looks pretty good. It won't tell you the condition of the rings but it does tell you that all the cylinders are in the same condition. I'm wondering if enough blow by is getting by the rings into the crank case which is then blowing oil up to the pcv valve and into the combustion chamber causing the white smoke. Check your oil under the same conditions. Like after she has sat all night. The engine holds five quarts so you were underfilled the first time.

Did you rebuild the motor and the head? Replace the valve stem seals? New rings? New bearings? Valve job? It sounds like the valve stem seals are shot. Oil leaks down the valve into the combustion chamber. Gunking up your plugs. The white smoke could be oil burning.

Bill, I POR'd the backside of mine. I didn't have any trouble with the degreaser or metal ready discoloring the chrome. Once the metal was treated I masked off the front and painted it. I used the silver paint. Also go to your local hardware store and buy two large rubber washers about 1 1/2" diameter. Use these between the bumper ends and the fender. Ed You said "chicken legs" got "breats"?

Looks like you'll be selling a lot of hot dogs to pay for that one. Just a suggestion, clean and paint the back side of the bumper before you install it to preserve it. Also give the chrome a good coat of wax when your done. Ed

The flywheel bolts are 12 x 1.25 and are 27mm long they also have an oversized head requiring a 19mm socket. The pressure plate bolts are 8 x 1.25 not sure about the length but somewhere around 19mm.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say........$3-400? Has it ever been rebuilt? What kind of compression does it have? Appearance? 5 speed or auto? Post some pictures and some more details if you can.

By the window crank? What's the purpose? Maybe to cover speaker holes?

Does anyone know where these would go? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-NOS-Amco-Contoured-Scuff-Plates_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6763QQitemZ8013832506QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

If you don't have a "cherry picker" or "engine hoist" check your local yellow pages under "tool rental" I rented one for $25.00. Buy an engine stand for $40.00 and rebuild that engine with ease. Like previously mentioned you can do it with the block still in the car but the crank is very heavy. Heavier than a V-8. And to remove the oil pan you pretty much have to raise the engine off the motor mounts. So in the long run you will be much happier if you pulled the block.

I've never seen any replacements for sale, atleast not new. I have seen them on Ebay a couple of times. A parts car might be your only alternative. Visit your local junk yard.

I did the PVC tube extension modification also. Real easy to do. Haven't tested it yet since my car hasn't gotten wet since I finished the restoration.