Ed

Those cracks were caused by heat. Depending on how deep they are will determine if your flywheel is reusable. The machine shop will have to remove enough of the surface to leave you with a smooth face. If you have to remove to much then the flywheel will be too thin and will overheat even more.

Just a guess here, the USA IE 0553 is a fleet number. The USA is a designation that it is a vehicle representing the USA either military or govt. The IE is a vehicle class designation. Meaning a 4-door sedan. The 0553 is the number of the vehicle. 553rd of the lot. I have no idea what the other markings mean.

From what I've learned is that they are a dealer intalled option. That's why they all look different. They are installed with small sheetmetal screws. If you remove yours you will more than likely have to paint. I removed mine and welded the holes.

That's a good point Carl. I'm gonna think about this one. I can see where rolling back the odometer would be an issue on a car that had nothing else done. And the roll back was done in an attempt to increase it's sale value. But this is going to be on a car that is NOT for sale.

Yea, I thought about buying a new one. But it would be just as easy for me to open this one and "reset it". Mostly I think it's for personal gratification. Driving it out of the garage for the first time with "0000000". And every mile after that will be part of the car's new life, born again in a way.

What do you guys think. My car is getting a complete restoration. Better than new in my opinion. My question is should I reset my odometer to zero? Or leave it be at 70k (probably 270k).

Exactly, be careful!

As long as there was no damage done to the crank there is no reason why you couldn't fix it. Like your friend suggested take some sandpaper or a fine tooth flat file and carefully remove the excess metal. Trial fit the new pulley several times until it slides on smooth. If you can post a picture so we can get a better idea of what happened and why.

It looks like a plug for the exhaust manifold.

No, no, no, these guys are steering you all wrong. I tell you what. I have a R-200 with the half shafts that I'll trade you fair and square for that old, outdated R-180 lsd. I'll even pay for shipping to make it even. . Send me a PM.

Well,,, on a positive note. Atleast your car wasn't stolen.

Spend a few extra dollars and have a wooden crate built for it. Some 1x6"s a couple of sheets of 1/4" plywood and some foam padding. I've dealt with a lot of shipping company's in the past. The lighter the package the more it gets tossed around. And a flimsy carboard box will provide no protection to your hood. Imagine it being put at the bottom of the pile and someones 50 lb bag being tossed right in the middle of your hood. :mad:

Make sure you coordinate with your paint shop on whatever process you use. Hate to have you do something for not.

F1 RULES!!!

Like mentioned earlier. The dammage shown is minimal. A good body shop with a skilled sheetmetal guy can fix the roof no problems. Check the rest of the car for serious rust.

It looks similar to the Kaminari that MSA sells. Honestly I've never seen that particular model. Maybe a custom job?

The aluminium drums have a steel liner. Which one stops better? Who know's? 80% of your cars stopping power come from the front's.

I cleaned, degreased and then used metal ready on mine. Then instead of using POR I used a Rust-Oleum metal finish "chrome or silver" spray paint. I won't know how it will hold up, but for now it looks real good. Touch up's won't be too difficult either.