Ed

Yes, there is an easy fix. You need to remove the front timing cover. Reset the crank to #1 TDC and the cam to #1 TDC on the compression stroke. Properly install the chain and chain tensioner and your done! Easy as pie. Remember I warned you. Read the manual twice I said. Now you will join the rest of us that learned the hard way. Oh, and if you mess it up you will take a chance at bending a valve.

To me it sounds like you replaced your old worn out MSA springs with new Tokico springs because you were having problems with your old MSA springs. I would guess that you were bottoming out a lot and the strut assembly would hit the bump stop. Creating a rough ride. The shocks will do nothing for ride height unless they are way to short. Then they will hold down the spring. If they are too long then you might have a problem with the shock bottoming out before the strut assembly hits the bump stop. The new Tokico springs you have could also be the correct ones for the 240. You mentioned you only had one inch of play in the rear (3cm). How much do you have now? If your old springs were sagging then the new ones just put the ride height back to where it's supposed to be. Maybe you need to get used to your car looking like it's a little higher. Besides that I'm not really sure what you mean by they don't fit. It sounds to me like they fit perfect.

The timing chain from 70-83 is the same. It's the chain guide that differs from 70-75 and 75-83. If you are using a F54 block then use the kit for the 280. If someone has a guide from a 240 laying around and wouldn't mind posting a picture I'll post a picture of a 280 guide and maybe we could spot the difference.

Try contacting one of our members here, his signature is Z-point. He has done the works replica transformation to his car and he lives in Holland. Keep us updated on your progress, we love this kind of stuff.

Those Iron Cross one's look awesome! Almost like it's chrome plated.

This is the correct head for the 82 ZX. The P90 came on the turbo. As long as you can turn the engine over and overall the engine looks to be in good shape it would be a good find. Your going to rebuild it anyway, correct? Pull the oil plug out in the yard and inspect the oil that comes out. Look for metal shavings or pieces. If it's just dirty then the engine "should" be fine. Also take the 5-speed the diff and the starter.

If your car has close to 100,000 miles or more then it might be time for a new clutch. Most stock clutches last to about 120,000 or so, it usually depends on driving habits. Also, I would recommend you change the clutch ASAP. If it keeps slipping when you give it gas you will be burning up the flywheel. Then you will have more things to replace.

Chris, I looked into the 3M tape and it appeared to be 3/4" PVC electrical tape, with the adhesive back.

Nice work! Now I want to see more!

What are the dimensions of the pannels and where are you located?

The only time I've seen those braided hose coverings look good is when it's applied over a straight piece of hose. If there is a bend in the hose then the braid looks uneven (bunched up in one area and stretched in another).

I had considered using PVC electrical tape. But, I unwrapped a "patch" that I did with it from a couple of years ago and the wires were sticky and gooey from the tapes adhesive.

I'd suggest getting some PB blaster and soaking the manifold bolts, exhaust flange bolts and any other bolts that you think you might have to take a wrench to. Put the front end up on jack stands just enough so that your not bent over all the way and enough where you can lay under the engine and get to those hard to reach bolts under the exhaust manifold.

I'm not sure on a 79'. But I would think that you would only be able to move everything back 1-2 inches without removing stuff. Then the studs would get in the way of "sliding out the old, and sliping in the new". Not to mention that you wouldn't be able to properly clean the mating surface. Personally I think it would be a pain in the donkey to try and slip it in & out. I might be wrong, I've only disassembled the FI intakes. Plan for all day, I say.

I'll let you know, I ordered a few rolls and will begin re-taping the engine bay wireing harness. Should have it done by Christmas :classic: .

Thanks for getting me going in the right direction. I found that it's called "Loom Tape". Eastwoods has some. If I remember I'll post my results. Thanks again.

Has anyone replaced the tape used to cover the wireing hareness. Mine is old grimmy and tore-up. I want to replace it. I've thought about useing electrical tape, but that shrinks over time and leaves a sticky residue. Any suggestions on what kind of tape to use?

The L24 is not a bad engine. Some tuning and maintanance and you will have a good reliable engine. I went to the L28 because it was cheaper to go L28 then to rebuild my broken L24. If your looking for a little more power and keeping an original appearance then buy a L28 (280ZX motor), 81-83 seems to be the prefered years. You can pick them up pretty reasonable at a junk yard. And they are a direct bolt-in. Buy the book previously mentioned and you can start building. When you get the engine done then do the swap. If your looking for a lot more power than the L24 then go with a L28 turbo. If you want more power than the car can handle then go with a V-8.

Jack up the car as far as you can so you have plenty of working room. Take a punch and mark the center of the broken bolt (wear safety glasses). Drill out the broken bolt with the largest drill bit possible. Cut out as much of the broken bolt as you can without dammaging the threads. If your lucky the rest of the bolt will come loose while your drilling. If it doesn't then you need to use an "easy out". Available at hardware stores. These are reverse thread studs that tighten into the hole as you try and break free the broken bolt. Be extra careful not to break the easyout. They are made from hardened steel and if you break it you WILL be up the creek without a paddle (BTDT). I've been sucessfull on retapping the hole instead of using the easy out. You can do this IF the hole you drilled is in the middle of the broken bolt, if it's off to the side just a little you will be cutting into the nut and making a bad situation worse. Good luck

Are these hole's supposed to be black?

Here is a picture from the inside. You can see the opening at the top.

Dave , I've been following this thread because I'm interested in your harness. And I was planning on getting one when the time is right. But I just noticed in the previous post that your harness works on the 240 until the 72 1/2. Does this mean that it won't work for my 73??? Ed

It would probably be cheaper if you went and got some stainless metric bolts, cut the head off and replaced the broken ones. Carefully drill out the rest of the broken bolt and epoxy in the new ones.