Ed

After doing several searches and my homework, I've decided to go with the Brown Bread insulation. I want to do almost the entire interior of the car, from the firewall, floors, doors, trans tunnel, roof, to the rear hatch area. The insulation comes in rolls of 70 sq. ft. I was wondering if anyone knows about how many sq. ft. I will need to accomplish this? Thanks.

Make sure the outer bearing is sealed one. The original bearing is sealed on just one side.

I sounds like you have already "screwed the pooch" by letting the cam chain tensioner loose, live and learn (sorry). I had to remove the sway bar where it mounts to the frame rails because it was in the way of the oil pump bolts. BTW, where are you?

Stephen is right. You don't have to remove that stuff unless you forget to use something to hold the cam chain tensioner in place. If you do forget or it still pops out THEN your screwed. Then you have to remove the radiator, oil pump, dist, sway bar, and front cover. Been there done that :stupid: . One word of advice when you put it back together make sure you have the crank and cam allignment exact. One tooth off and you will be doing it all over. Also make sure you have the distruibutor shaft alligned properly one tooth off on that and you will be pulling the front cover off AGAIN. Been there done that. Some of us just learn the hard way.

Good deal, It's always comforting to know your car will be in good hands.

Using the POR-15 product would be an easy fix for your current rust problem. My only concern would be retaining the structural integrity of the floor pan. I wouldn't want to run over anything knowing that there is only a little bit of filler and paint with paper thin rusted sheet metal protecting my feet. If it was me (look in my gallery) I would cut out all the rusted metal weather it's in patches or the entire pan and replace it with new sheet metal. It's a pretty easy fix since you have access to both sides of the pannel. Once welded in place then use the POR-15 product and protect your new steel floor.

Good point Sean, same thing happened to me. I also thought it was the valvetrain.

First, have you tried adjusting the valves? Usually an adjustment will clear things up. While your doing that inspect the condition of the lash pads, rocker arms and the cam lobes. Any unusual or excessive wear would indicate a cause to your valvetrain clatter. If the adjustment doesn't clear things up then I would look into replacing parts. BTW do you know how many miles are on the engine?

Most trucking company's will want to know the weight to give you an estimate (3-400lbs is my ballpark guess). Make a base out of some 2X4's so it won't tip over. Wrapping it in seran or other plastic wrap is a good idea. Building a crate would be best, especially to prevent damaging the carbs. Find a trucking company close to your house this way you can drop it off. I'd say 90% of them will transport nationwide. Consolidated Freightways, Yellow, ABF are just a few that come to mind.

The guys over at Ztherapy took care of me. Thanks Guys!

Jerrod, listen to Jason. He's a pro at this by now . jk

Those guys at Z-Whizz took care of me when I was having problems. When I had first put the round tops on my 73 they let me watch and learn as they fine tuned the carbs. I learned more in 20 minutes than I would have in a long time. Good guys!

Not sure if this is what your looking for but the 81 that donated many parts to my 73 had a gear reduction starter. My 73 was not original so I don't know.

I remember trying to set mine at about 550 like the decal under the hood suggested but it would stall. Especially when I would run the A/C. I think it idled best around 800. This was over a year ago so my memory is a little fuzzy.

Ahhh yes, the old stripped screw deal. Some of these screws were a combination 10mm hex head with the phillips others were just the phillips head. Sounds like you have just the phillips. Take a 1/4" or 3/8" drill bit and drill in the center of the screw. Becarful you only want to remove the head of the screw. Once the head comes off and you get the rest of the door disassembled you will be able to remove the rest of the screw with a either a pair of vice grips or pliers. Make sure when you buy a replacement that it's metric. I think it's a 6X1.00.

Thanks Gary, I figured Ztherapy might have them. I'll give them a jingle. BTW, not cold, cold yet, just chilly. It's been in the 60's. Gonna go visit S.Cal next month to warm up. :classic:

Even though it's nice to have fresh plating on my parts I'm a little pissed that the platers lost a small retaining spring for my carbs. Not exactly sure what it's called but, it sits at the end of the circled bolt in the attached picture, between the washer and the bracket. There are 3 springs that go on this bolt. One big one at the base next to the body, another one in between the two brackets and the one that I need at the end of the bolt. It's a flat spring with only 2 "coils". Does anyone have one? Thanks.

I haven't had any problems, here at home or at work. *knocks on wood*

Congratulations on your new car and welcome to the club. Your gonna find that there will always be someone here to help you. It sounds like your door could use some adjusting. It's not a difficult job just a long and tedious one. If you haven't done so already your next best investment in your new car is the purchase of a shop manual. You can probably find a Haynes manual at your local automotive supply store. There are also year specific manuals around and you see them for sale every now and again on ebay. When you do take your door apart, becareful removing the interior panel. They are fragile and you could damage the backing if you pull on it. Good luck.

Boy that was quite ahh, brave? Racing you new car on her maiden voyage. Wouldn't catch me doing that. Anyway enjoy your new car. :classic: On your body panel, check with Victoria British. In there catalog they list a few body panels. Either that or find a body shop that can work the sheet metal.