Ed

An impact wrench is probably the easiest way to remove that bolt. You can borrow a 1/2" electric one from Autozone if you don't have one. Another option is a wrench (preferably a 1/2" drive) and a 2lb hammer. Also I hope you are following the directions from a service manual to the letter. Although changing the cam isn't a difficult task you must insure that you do it correctly. Are you using a block or wedge of some kind to hold the cam chain tensioner in place? Did you make sure you set the #1 piston @ TDC on the compression stroke? Also pay attention to where the groove on the camshaft sprocket line's up with the line on the cam shaft tower. Good luck.

A helicoil would be the easiest way to fix it and it's available at any automotive supply store. They are also pretty easy to install. Drill tap, and insert the coil. Another option for you is when you take the block to the machine shop to have it worked, mention the stripped threads. Have them weld the hole then drill and retap. They might also suggest the helicoil. Up to you.

Like Enrique said, you've go to physically grab the "knob" and as you pull the door handle rotate the knob back into it's proper position. Then lube it up.

I wonder if they would buy old pumps? I threw mine in the trash a while back thinking it was worthless.

I'm might be wrong but, I don't think that with the modifications mentioned you will reach 200hp. From what I've seen even a modified L28 barely reaches the 200hp mark. A few things to add to your list is to have some head work done. Larger valves, match port & polish. Bore out the L24, or replace with a L28 and bore it out. Do some more homework and check with some of the racing engine builders. Good luck and let us know what you end up doing.

Unless they have a website I've only seen them being sold by MSA.

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=4783

Hope this works. Just left click. You don't have to save file. Edit: no relation to the above post. bike

It also sounds like she is either trying to avoid getting her insurance involved or she doesn't have insurance.

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I wish you the best of luck in getting her repaired. Don't get in a hurry, get it done right. Any chance you could post some pictures? They could help out a lot in trying to figure out what you need.

Which years came with rubber on the sides of the rear bumper? I've noticed this is not a very popular piece. I'm talking about the piece on the front edge between the body and the bumper. bumperrub.bmp

Are your choke cables similar to a 73? Going through the passenger side of the firewall?

First you have to be sure that there isn't something wrong with your rear end that was caused by an accident. If one of your wheels is "off" then you could have a damaged control arm or something else. There are no adjustments that can be made. There is an aftermarket alternative. To adjust rear end toe in you can use adjustable control arm bushings made by G-machine. Victoria British sells them Part # 88-701. I always thought the section between the control arms was called the transverse link?

You could start off by taking your car to an allignment shop. Tell them what the symptoms are. More than likely they will inspect all your steering components, balance your tires, and give you recommendations as to what is causing the vibration. You could say thanks but no thanks and fix it yourself or just let them at it. If it were me I would start with a good balance on the wheels then start replacing all the worn-out rubber. Replace the tie-rods and the ball joints. Then take it to the allignment shop. I had a vibration in my front end for the longest. Had the wheels balanced several times. Ended up being the rims. They where the type that are "universal" (for different bolt sizes). If you look at the bolt holes they are oblong. So they never sat right. Different rims fixed it.

I agree with you. I also remember reading this before. The engine is at a slant to reduce overall height.

Back to the original topic. Polished valve cover. Read the 4th paragraph. ebay

You forgot; BTDT

True, it's more than $.02. Lets just call it advice. BTW gas filler plate? I'm at a loss???