Ed
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Everything posted by Ed
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Even though it's nice to have fresh plating on my parts I'm a little pissed that the platers lost a small retaining spring for my carbs. Not exactly sure what it's called but, it sits at the end of the circled bolt in the attached picture, between the washer and the bracket. There are 3 springs that go on this bolt. One big one at the base next to the body, another one in between the two brackets and the one that I need at the end of the bolt. It's a flat spring with only 2 "coils". Does anyone have one? Thanks.
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I haven't had any problems, here at home or at work. *knocks on wood*
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If you lived in Niagara Falls where the high temp doesn't get over 85 F. You would understand. I was leaving the MSA show and saw that it was 92 F. -
Congratulations on your new car and welcome to the club. Your gonna find that there will always be someone here to help you. It sounds like your door could use some adjusting. It's not a difficult job just a long and tedious one. If you haven't done so already your next best investment in your new car is the purchase of a shop manual. You can probably find a Haynes manual at your local automotive supply store. There are also year specific manuals around and you see them for sale every now and again on ebay. When you do take your door apart, becareful removing the interior panel. They are fragile and you could damage the backing if you pull on it. Good luck.
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Boy that was quite ahh, brave? Racing you new car on her maiden voyage. Wouldn't catch me doing that. Anyway enjoy your new car. :classic: On your body panel, check with Victoria British. In there catalog they list a few body panels. Either that or find a body shop that can work the sheet metal.
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I asked about that and they said that after the skim coat is smoothed they apply a sealing/rust inhibitive primer. Then they apply the high build primer. -
After the primer cures for about a week. She will be block sanded. -
Can you see something missing from the doors? -
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The roof was the worst part of the whole car. Like someone put something heavy on it then pushed it back out.
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Hardly any body damage. Just welding up the molding holes. -
After the molding holes were welded closed a thin layer of filler was applied. AKA skimcoat. -
This was what took the longest. Alot of nooks and cranny's. -
An impact wrench is probably the easiest way to remove that bolt. You can borrow a 1/2" electric one from Autozone if you don't have one. Another option is a wrench (preferably a 1/2" drive) and a 2lb hammer. Also I hope you are following the directions from a service manual to the letter. Although changing the cam isn't a difficult task you must insure that you do it correctly. Are you using a block or wedge of some kind to hold the cam chain tensioner in place? Did you make sure you set the #1 piston @ TDC on the compression stroke? Also pay attention to where the groove on the camshaft sprocket line's up with the line on the cam shaft tower. Good luck.
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A helicoil would be the easiest way to fix it and it's available at any automotive supply store. They are also pretty easy to install. Drill tap, and insert the coil. Another option for you is when you take the block to the machine shop to have it worked, mention the stripped threads. Have them weld the hole then drill and retap. They might also suggest the helicoil. Up to you.
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Like Enrique said, you've go to physically grab the "knob" and as you pull the door handle rotate the knob back into it's proper position. Then lube it up.
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I wonder if they would buy old pumps? I threw mine in the trash a while back thinking it was worthless.
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I'm might be wrong but, I don't think that with the modifications mentioned you will reach 200hp. From what I've seen even a modified L28 barely reaches the 200hp mark. A few things to add to your list is to have some head work done. Larger valves, match port & polish. Bore out the L24, or replace with a L28 and bore it out. Do some more homework and check with some of the racing engine builders. Good luck and let us know what you end up doing.
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Unless they have a website I've only seen them being sold by MSA.
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http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=4783
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Hope this works. Just left click. You don't have to save file. Edit: no relation to the above post. bike
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It also sounds like she is either trying to avoid getting her insurance involved or she doesn't have insurance.
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Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I wish you the best of luck in getting her repaired. Don't get in a hurry, get it done right. Any chance you could post some pictures? They could help out a lot in trying to figure out what you need.
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Which years came with rubber on the sides of the rear bumper? I've noticed this is not a very popular piece. I'm talking about the piece on the front edge between the body and the bumper. bumperrub.bmp
