Ed

Are your choke cables similar to a 73? Going through the passenger side of the firewall?

You know what's funny about this.. The longer you work turning wrenches you develop an E.S.P. You start turning a wrench and you think to yourself. Hmmm, this is gonna hurt. :hurt:

First you have to be sure that there isn't something wrong with your rear end that was caused by an accident. If one of your wheels is "off" then you could have a damaged control arm or something else. There are no adjustments that can be made. There is an aftermarket alternative. To adjust rear end toe in you can use adjustable control arm bushings made by G-machine. Victoria British sells them Part # 88-701. I always thought the section between the control arms was called the transverse link?

You could start off by taking your car to an allignment shop. Tell them what the symptoms are. More than likely they will inspect all your steering components, balance your tires, and give you recommendations as to what is causing the vibration. You could say thanks but no thanks and fix it yourself or just let them at it. If it were me I would start with a good balance on the wheels then start replacing all the worn-out rubber. Replace the tie-rods and the ball joints. Then take it to the allignment shop. I had a vibration in my front end for the longest. Had the wheels balanced several times. Ended up being the rims. They where the type that are "universal" (for different bolt sizes). If you look at the bolt holes they are oblong. So they never sat right. Different rims fixed it.

I agree with you. I also remember reading this before. The engine is at a slant to reduce overall height.

Back to the original topic. Polished valve cover. Read the 4th paragraph. ebay

You forgot; BTDT

True, it's more than $.02. Lets just call it advice. BTW gas filler plate? I'm at a loss???

It depends on what your plans are. Restoration or a driver? IMO this car has seen a few salty roads in it's lifetime. Maybe one to many. You can clearly see the rust spots. As any member will tell you where there is a little there is a lot. Some spots I noticed is the left rear trunk lid area. Clearly somone has used somekind of filler to hide the rust through spot. Another is the drivers side dogleg (lower corner behind the drivers door) those bubbles in the paint are rust. The area in the passenger sided wheel well by the brake bracket. Is that rusted through? There appears to be a hole. Some of the undercarrage pictures would send me running. I know that your looking for a car, but my advice would be to go and see this car personally, get on your hands and knees and probe the undercarrage to see the extent of the rust dammage. turk1.bmp turk2.bmp turk3.bmp

I've noticed that a lot of different people who put polished valve covers for sale on ebay always say that the cover has been media blasted or glass bead blasted. Anyway this is a great way to clean up the outside. But the problem is when they do the inside. Blasting media gets stuck to the sludge on the inside of the baffle plate and stays there. Rinsing with water does not remove the media. You have to remove the baffle plate and use a stiff brush to clean it. The last thing you want is some of this media coming loose and flowing through your engine. $.02

Looks like the bumper guard off a 73 front bumper. There is a left and a right along with the rubber trim. Left and right. One of them is NLA, can't remember which one.

With the steering wheel straight. You look in the engine bay and coming out of the firewall the steering column comes to a u-joint then bolts to the steering coupler. The bracket between the steering coupler and the u-joint. What is the correct placement of the first joint? Is it up-down or side-side? Thanks.

Siren for the car alarm.

Yes sir, this is the 73. (6/73 mfg)

I've got mine disassembled now. The only thing on it is the wheel and the ingition. No turnsignals or switch assembly. And she spins like a top.

Hey, welcome to the club! Quite the set up you've got. What year is she? Let's see those pictures. The cam is going to be up to you. See how she feels at idle, it will run rougher at idle with a big cam but you'll have great power in the 3K rpm range.

I thought the limits are set by the gears in the rack / pinion that's inside the steering rack. The steering column above the coupler can rotate endlessly, can't it? And if it did rotate while the coupler is disassembled then the steering wheel would turn and be misalligned.

Boy this is a scary thread. I actually quit counting after I reached over $10,000 in tools, parts, chrome, wheels, glass, bolts, etc.... I did keep the receipts, that's just a big stack of papers right now and it just gets bigger every day! I think after I get my 5K paint job (I don't have a receipt for the paint yet) that I won't have to spend much more. I'm almost done rebuilding everything. I'm actually running out of things to do. I just need my body back.

Try the high pressure water. I've seen it work and it's the cheapest/easiest way. Don't bother using one of those "car wash" or electric power washers. Those suck 800-1500 psi max. You want to use a gas operated 2500 psi power washer! Start where the paint is peeling and watch it go.

The u-joints that are on the steering colum. Are they replaceable?

Look at the bushings on your steering rack. If those are old and worn then a lot of steering play can come from that. There are replacement urathane bushings available.

Maybe try a high pressure water hose? Can't really think of anything else.

Well since you put it that way. I'm no expert on F/I there for I give this suggestion. Take your car to a garage where there is someone who knows his way around your particular engine. Pay him for his knowledge, and watch him while he works. Ask question and learn. BTDT. I took my car to a shop when I was running out of ideas and I learned more in 15 minutes than I would have after years of playing and experimenting. Consider it money well spent. $.02