Ed

What kind of oil are you using? Some people use ATF or straight 20wt. Other's use different weights depending on application. And you should fill to the line indicated on the plunger (dipstick). If you over fill don't worry it will spill out into the intake and be burnt off.

Don't forget that most undercoatings are pourus and would allow moisture to penetrate. Clean, prime, seal and paint the undercarrage before applying any type of undercoating.

Thanks guys.

Also make sure the size of the file isn't too big. I had the same problem. I reduced the size of the picture and it worked.

What most people will tell you is to look out for rust. Floor pans, frame rails and rear deck lid just to name a few spots. If your looking for an original car then the one on Ebay isn't for you. It's obviously been extensively modified. Take a stroll and look through our gallery and you will find a lot of modified and stock examples. We have a few members on this site that live in your neck of the woods so maybe they can help you find what you want. The hp out of a stock 240 will be in the 150 range. As to what kind of engine transplants can be done, I would say your only limited by your imagination (and your billfold). Good luck and welcome to the world of Zed's.

Your Dad could be correct. One thing I've learned is to ALWAYS listen to your Dad. So make him happy and make sure your carbs are getting enough fuel. Replace the fuel filter. Take apart your bowls and make sure they are adjusted correctly. Make sure that all the fuel is flowing at it's full potential. If your car still stalls under load then check your ignition timing. But most likely your Dad is correct.

I was wondering if someone could breifly explain what the different classes at a car show are and what class of car would competed for a specified class. The ones I have noticed are: Daily driver, Stock and Modified. Are there anymore? Is there maybe a link to the rules and stuff? Thanks

Talk about a motivator to get my car done.

Once you get the window out the regulator comes out pretty easy. The four screws around the crank handle and it comes out. Try to straightening it out first. If it looks like that won't cut it let me know and I'll sell you the regulator out of my 72.

Either replace the bent track or repair it. Take the interior panel off and work through the holes in the doors. I would disassemble the entire window mechanism. This way you have a good idea of how things are supposed to work. The window comes out after you remove the short track which is held on position by two nuts around the arm rest. And the vertical track which is in the front of the door. Also remove the chrome squeegee on the outside of the door. The glass then comes out the top. Reinstall the short track and work the entire mechanism. See where it's binding or what's causing the window to not work. Take your time. Spend 3-4 hours working on it until you get it to work correctly. Lube the wheels and the crank assembly. Good luck.

In the Trans Am the e-brake is on the right to give the passenger something to hold on to.

Thanks for the feedback. I think permatex is the winner for the inside. Even though I know JB will work, I don't want it to be permanent. I might use JB on the outside around the breather. :classic:

This doesn't sound like a hinge problem.

If your talking about replaceing the bushings on your suspension arms then, BE-CAREFUL! The arms are easily dammaged if not done properly. I took mine to a garage to have them pressed and the guy wouldn't touch them. He said if he tried to press out the old bushing he couldn't guarantee that the arm wouldn't get dammaged in the process. The material around the bushing case is thin and could bend with too much force. I'm glad the guy was honest enough to tell me this. One way to remove the bushing is to cut it out with a hack saw. Disassemble the saw and run the blade through the center of the old bushing. Cut through the inner sleeve in two places about 1/2 inch appart. With a screw driver separate the 1/2 piece of the inner sleeve AND the rubber, from the outer sleeve. (You can also burn the rubber out if you have a torch.) This will give you plenty of room to cut out the outer sleeve. Run the hack saw through again and start cutting. Be careful and make sure you cut in a parallel motion to the bushing. This way you won't cut through the bushing case. When I did mine I cut to within about 1/64" of cutting completely through and then used a screwdriver to bend a corner of the outer bushing and hammered it out the rest of the way. When you go to insert the new bushings clean the case with a wire brush or some sand paper. Then before assembly lube the case and the bushing with either some bearing grease or anti-seize. Assembly is a different story and requires a bench vise.

I haven't driven my girl in over a year. And now I can't even see her. She's off getting a nice new shiney coat. I atleast visit her every week. Won't be long before she's back under my roof. :classic:

I've been polishing my valve cover for the past few days. And I've noticed that the inside of the cover has a "sealant" around the baffle plate. This "sealant" is also around the vent tube on the outside of the cover. (I'll take pictures if anyone doesn't have a clue as to what I'm talking about.) This "sealant" is cracking and falling off. Does anyone know of any alternative for this or has replaced this with an alternative material that works?

Do a lot of research before you buy this. Use the search and try any and all configurations, 4 bbl, arizona intake, single carb, holley and so on. I've been here for a few years and have not heard anything good about the 4 bbl conversion. Do your homework first! $.02

Greetings to you too! Sounds like a pretty sweet find. Is the 260 ready to re-assemble? Most parts from the 70-78 are interchangeable. There are a few differences here and there. To keep it a 260 you will have to retain some of the original parts. Other wise you will have a 280 stuffed into a 260. If you don't have one yet get a parts catalog from MSA or Victoria British you could look up a part in question and see if there is a different part for that year. Take all the parts from the 260 even if you don't expect to use it. Better to have and not need than to need and not have. Good luck on your project and don't get discouraged if it takes longer than you think.

I went to a constructions site where they were building homes. Asked if I could have the wood scraps. I accumulated enough 2X4's and 2X6's that I made platforms for the jack stands and the jack. I would jack up the rear with the jack put in the jack stands. Then put some 2X6's down under the jack and jack up the car again. Raise the jack stands with the 2X4's. Then I'd do the front. You probably get my drift by now. You can jack your car up to as high as you want.

Where have you been?

You could order the replacement seat cover from MSA then take those to an upholstery shop along with some pictures of what the original seat is supposed to look like (look in our gallery).

Pictures, we need pictures! :classic:

Where do these hoses keep coming from? Someone must have a secret stash somewhere.

Here is a solution: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=10657&size=big&sort=1&cat=500 (just kidding) :classic: