Ed

I got those fittings from the Nissan dealer a couple of years back. Believe it or not they had them in stock! Maybe they use the same fittings on newer model cars? I went through the opposite of what your going through. I was on the search for a plug for that fitting. Never found any in that pitch. I went to about ten different part's stores, hardware stores, plumbing shops, heating and cooling etc... I ended up getting a 1/4 npt pipe tap and retapping the hole. Like you said the pitch is off ever so slightly like one or two threads per inch. Good luck.

Interesting to know. I've had a couple of guys over to look at my car for a paint job. I've never bothered asking them how long it would take.

My first guess would be that someone has lowered the rear of the car by heating the springs. Now the spring has sagged and when you make a right turn the suspension compresses and with the weight of the driver either the tire rubs the wheel well or some other part of the drive train is touching. (just a guess) Have someone sit in the back of the car, left side. Look underneath and see if something is close to rubbing against something. If you can't find anything then jack the car up and remove the road wheel. Inspect all your suspension components to make sure that everything is nice and tight. A worn out bushing would most likely be the culprit. Those 30 year old rubber bushings don't last forever. Good luck.

Ermm, If I don't say it i'm sure someone else will. Are you going to take the part needing blasting behind the woodshed, and uh, "blast it"? LOL :tapemouth j/k:classic:

That's good to hear. :classic:

No, I think he's burning some wet paper under his car, thus creating all that white smoke.

On my first engine I noticed that the timing chain had little "rollers". These rollers are what engage with the sprocket teeth. Some of these rollers were broken on my chain. I would think that if enough of these rollers were to break you could have some terminal results.

Good luck on your bidding Stephen. She is nice.:classic:

My parts car looks like this. Every nut and bolt is rusted. There isn't a piece of sheetmetal that wouldn't need patching or replacing. It took me twenty minutes to get one horn off and I broke a bolt. The amount of work that this fairlady needs and what she would be worth in the end just doesn't justify it. IMO Maybe find a donor 2+2 and convert it into a fairlady using whatever you can from this poor lost soul.

Ermm, I might be wrong here but your "donor" car won't have the correct mustache bar. If I remember correctly it doesn't even have a mustache bar. Also unless you are planning for some serious HP the R-200 will be overkill. IMO stick with the R-180 you have. But by all means pull the R-200 and stash if for future projects.

Originally posted by Bambikiller240 "Some things are meant to die. This looks like one of them." You got that right. More holes than swiss cheese. :dead: :dead:

Too bad it also has holes in the doors.

Your exterior of the car seems to be in pretty decent shape judging by the pics. Some people might have a problem with the sunroof. The interior looks a little abused, ripped seat, shortened shifter, painted steering wheel. What does the back look like? Engine bay color doesn't match body, the battery looks like it's not secured. And what's that metal rod looking thingy by the master cylinder? If the floors are solid as you say I would start around 4k and go from there. IMO, I would offer you about 3k depending on what the rest of the car looks like. Not trying to burst your bubble or anything I'm sure up in WI you won't find a rust free Z. So use that as your selling point. :classic: Good luck.

I eagerly await my copy.:classic:

Are you talking inside your car? If so then your master cylinder is shot. The seals on the piston are leaking and everytime you pump your brakes you will squirt a bit of brake fluid inside your car. This is bad for two reasons. First the obvious, no brakes. Second brake fluid is corrosive and the longer it sits inside your car the more paint it will desolve. Pull your floor mats wash everything with plenty of water. Replace that bad MC, bleed the brakes and you should be as good as new.

I won't vote since I haven't painted yet but, I had a guy that will probably be painting my Z come over to look at my car this past Sunday. He told me that it would take about two quarts of primer, then he would spray sealer over that (not sure how much) then he said it would take about four quarts of color. I'm going with PPG single-stage since it's better and I'm keeping the original color, 110. All this for a mere 5-6k.

I hate to be the one to tell you but I'm sure someone else would have. Your factory A/C isn't factory. They were a dealer add on to boost the sales price. I haven't heard about a product to stop A/C leaks. I have heard of a "seal conditioner". I guess it all depends on where your system is leaking if it would work. Personally I don't like to add things to any system as they might "gunk-up" something else. Also if you are running the older freon instead of the new 134r it would be a good time for the upgrade. The older freon costs up to $45 for 8oz (one can). Depending on where your system is leaking you should be able to have it repaired. Look for someone that works on A/C systems and radiators. They will most likely be able to repair it. Another option is you could move up here to New York. Summer hasn't quite gotten to us yet. Good luck.

Unless it got stuck on something on the way down like the chain or sprockets, I'd say it's in the pan. I too would try fishing for it first. Like Zedrally said, you don't need to remove the head, but if you ever do remove the head for whatever reason you will always need to replace the head gasket.

I've said it before and I'll say it again. It's good to see someone putting the stands in the best possible location. Right behind the T/C cup. Where the metal is the thickest.:classic:

Pretty interesting. Notice how the torque peaked right before 2.5k and stayed the same. I don't think your gonna gain much more than that without $$$. But with the basic set up you have I'd be happy. Thanks

I've used the bolt holes that the "eye's" are supposed to be bolted to. One up front by the fuel pump the other the #6 exhaust stud. Linked a chain and used grade 8.8 bolts. I was thinking couldn't you raise the car and put it on jack stands. Then raise the engine until it came off the mounts. Then lower the crossmember? There are only four bolts that hold the crossmember to the frame. If there is a issue with alligning the bolt holes after your done, you could take out one bolt each side and put a long bolt in it's place (just to hold it). Depending on how long your bolts are would determine how much space you get.

Nate, sorry for your bad news. I don' t know how available rust free shells are. Or if they even exist? Depending on how much you have invested it might be worth repairing your current car. That's the beauty of working with metal you can bend & shape it to your specs. Put your car up and survey the damage. Post some pictures and maybe someone here can give you some suggestions.