Ed

I had forgotten about this thread. Talk about digging up the past:classic: . venom42, it should be ok to remove the plug with your impact but I wouldn't put it back on with it. As far as your shifter getting hot this is normal if the car has been running a while. But it sounds like your going to change the fluid anyway so you should be safe.

Hey, welcome to the club. I'm not that far from you. On the rims you need to measure the bolt pattern and the offset to see if they are compatable with the Z or you could just compare them to what ever you have currently on you Z. Are they 14 or 15's? If there is anything you need give me a PM and I'll be glad to give you a hand.

I don't know if this will help you guys or just confuse you some more but here is a picture of the original radio out of my 72.

I don't think the hood ornament was an option, they all had them. The one's that don't have them now is because the owners have removed them.

Did you guys notice the radio?

All the early Zed's have manual rack and pinion steering. Up until the 81ZX I believe.

Oh, yea. I remember doing this once. I was burping unleaded for hours:sick: .

If you can go and take some pictures of it and post them here. We would be able to tell you what's good and what's not. BTW you mentioned doing this car in a year. I would assume that you have a heated garage, correct?

Not too sure of the nationality but she would have long sleek curves that are "erotic" to look at. Soft, smooth skin without any blemishes. A head turner at any angle. Then beneath the skin (under the hood) she would be a wolf in sheeps clothing, agressive, yet graceful. Fast yet smooth. And always, always wanting to go for a "ride":classic:

Depending on what grind cam you get, and your car's application (street or autocross) the higher compression would be better.

For a rust bucket basket case, $300 max! If he wants more move on. You can pickup a complete running car in bad shape but running for about $400-500. Good luck.

You should be able to use either head on the F54 block from the 82. If memory serves me tonight you should have a N42 head on your 77. The N42 has square exhaust ports. I can't remember what head is on the 82:stupid: (P79?) but I'm sure it has the round exhaust ports. So you should keep the exhaust manifold of whatever head your going to use. Another difference is the combustion chamber size. The N42 will give you a higher compression about 10.3:1. If you keep the original head I think you will be around 8.5:1. Personally I would do what Will suggested and drop the whole thing in, EFI, intake and exhaust manifold, distributor, the whole ball of wax. Alot less work for about the same performance. Ed

Hey Bill, Sorry about that, I wonder if it was the same punks? I keep asking myself why Z stuff? Anyway hope the cops can help you out. Be safe in whatever you decide to do.:bandit: Ed

Is a larger brake booster better? In my 72 it's about 8" in diameter and in my 73 it's about 10" in diameter.

As the car stands right now and given your description I would tend to agree that 5k is a little high. Is the reputable Z-car specialist going to fix the rust? How big are the holes on the inner fender? I would think that if there is rust there then there HAS to be rust elsewhere. Does the floorpan have "new" undercoating? What about the rear hatch? Has it been replaced with a later hatch?

I think your asking for an agrivated afternoon if you don't take out the exhaust. I did it once with the headers still on and even that got in the way. Do it right and remove the exhaust. You will be glad you did.

Depending on where you get it from. Drain the unit first. Inspect the drain plug. There is a magnet attached to the plug that should have all the metal "shavings" attached to it. Wipe it with your finger and then rub the residue between your finger and thumb. It should feel smooth almost like toothpaste. This is normal wear. Anything else like chunks of metal or coarse shavings would indicate an abused tranny.

You should be able to drop a 5 speed from any year Z up to 83. Should be a direct bolt on. Not sure about the driveshaft though. The tranny has a filler and drain plug just like the diff. Drain on the bottom and fill on the passenger side. No dipstick. And it does not share engine oil, it uses 80wt gear oil. :classic:

The time has come for me to strip and re-paint the my brake booster (the one on the firewall). I was wondering what to do about the decal. If I remove it with a heat gun will it go back with no problems? I don't want to mask it off cuz that just looks tacky. Has anyone removed a decal and reapplied it? Any suggestions? Thanks

Good to see someone actually putting his jack stands in the correct place! Even a piece of wood to protect the metal:D , Nice!

There is a rubber seal on the output shaft that seals the shaft to the bore. Your seal is no good. You can buy just the seal and replace it yourself. Make sure you clean the bore completely. If you have any corrosion on the bore face then you will need to get a new slave cylinder. I would recommend getting a new slave cylinder to be on the safe side.

Kind of unrelated but since your giving your girl a tune-up you should replace all the fluids too (radiator, tranny, diff).:classic:

MSA has a "kit" that includes NGk spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, points (where applicable), and condenser (where applicable). Ed