Ed

Mario, I would start with a basic tune-up. New NGK spark plugs, cap, rotor, points and set the timing. If you haven't done so already adjust the valves. Next would be to adjust the carbs. If you haven't done this before then I would suggest getting the "How to" video from Z-therapy. Ojala esto te ayuda, porque sin poder ver ni oir yo no te puedo ayudar.

Wow, sorry to hear that. I know you put alot of work into it. I guess this means your gonna have to upgrade some more. Good luck

WHAT??? 16!!?? Do you have your Moma's permission to be here? Just kidding Bill. (payback)

I think I might just wizz the wife off! :D

Sounds like a sweet set-up. Drive the thing. See how it treats you on the street. Some things to look out for: Does it idle good? Does it overheat when your in traffic? Is it too loud for your neighbors? Enjoy!

Thanks for the great info!

Do you think they will bolt on to the Toyota 4 piston caliper (the one that alot of us have upgraded to)?

You can check on E-bay. Every now and then a factory manual will pop up for the appropriate year. Not really sure if anyone still sells factory manuals for a 72 (someone else will know though). BTW back to my previous question: Tell us what your opinion of the 350 vs the 240 is:classic: . No bad things though just the good points of each:D .

Those look cool as hell! You say MSA offers those? Can you buy just the front lines? How much?

NOt that I have anything against the 350, I wouldn't mind having one myself (the wife would kill me if I came home with one:D ). But this site is "mainly" dedicated to the older body style 240-280Z. This helps us maintain our current knowledge base that everyone enjoys and finds invaluable.:classic:

IMO the mirror tint looks great on newer cars that have a metallic color paint job. To put a mirror tint on an older car just doesn't look right. And you don't want to go too dark. Because in the day time it's great but at night you can't see anything without having to roll down your window. 20-30% would be about the darkest I would go and semi-metallic (the metallic lasts longer than the regular tint). Look in my gallery and you will see mine 27% with a semi-metallic. Edit: page two of my gallery and the drivers side window is down. But you can tell from the passenger window that it looks pretty good!

Welcome to the club! You will always find great advice in this club for your 240. I don't think you will find any advice here for your Texas painted 350, . Let us know which you like most, your 240 or your 350. This would be interesting....

Sorry, I think you have missunderstood my last post, I was asking Enrique if he agreed with me. Not that I was Enrique. (BTW I think Enrique is pretty knowledgeable when it comes to bodywork and I value his opinion IMO).

To me this sounds like the sheetmetal has been stretched. Right now the metal is undecided, either up or down whichever side it gets persuaded to. To me this is something that a backyard mechanic can not fix properly. It has taken decades of abuse for the metal to fatigue and comform to it's current state. To properly fix this you will need a torch, a dolly, and a hammer. You must heat the metal in the proper location then hammer the stretched metal back into it's original state. This is something you don't just learn over the weekend. It takes years of practice. Honestly, pay an experienced bodyshop to fix this. Enrique, what do you think?

I think it would be cool too. My only concern would be that over time with all the up's and down's and left's and right's there would be some kind of stress on where the braided line connects to the caliper. It would however be cool if it worked, and it would really, really suck if it didn't.

Sounds good! I just measured my braided lines that I got a couple of years ago from MSA. These go from the strut bracket to the fender bracket and they measure only 12".:classic:

I was hoping to see you in your overalls with some grease under them nails.

I find this interesting. You are saying the S/S brake line will go directly from the bracket on the inner fender to the caliper? Are the lines longer than the regular upgrade ones? I'd also be interested in seeing this upgrade. Looking forward to my summer issue.

Now why are you going to cover that beautiful new paint job with a bra? Don't those things scratch the paint?

I'm not too sure about that. I think the S/S line replaces just the rubber line. You still need to retain the S bend solid line that goes from the caliper to the bracket on the strut. From the strut you need a flexible line to the inner fender bracket (the one by the crossmember mount). Even if you were able to mount the flexible line from the inner fender directly to the caliper I wouldn't think that there would be enough slack. You would be taking a chance at breaking the line. If you do have to replace the solid line you can pick one up at any NAPA automotive supply store. Make sure it's the metric kind. Carefully bend into the "S" shape. Good luck. Edit: sorry I just noticed your location, try any automotive supply store or your nissan dealer.:classic:

Pancho, that underside looks Good! If or when my undercarage looks like that i'm going to get my pillow and sleep under the car:D . Funny those don't look like metric bolts:ermm: .

Use the chemical stripper on your larger pannels. Make sure you read the directions completely. Neutralizing is just as important as using. I don't like it because it can get into those nooks and crannys then you never know if you got it all out.

Don't go dragging me into this.....