Ed

If you want to do a basic rebuild things are not that complicated and not that expensive. Disassemble the block, take it to an engine shop have them hot tank it (which cleans it inside and out) replace the freeze plugs and hone the cylinder walls. Buy a rebuild kit to replace all gaskets, bearings and rings. Use new con-rod bolts and put it all back together yourself. No special machine shop required for this.:classic:

4. Take your car to the car wash and use their steamcleaner. 3. After you strip the engine you can either wash the internals yourself with some cleaning solvent or you can take it all to an engine shop and have it hot-tanked. They will also clean your pistons for about 5 bucks each. 2. There are a few books available that have a detailed outline on how to rebuild or modify your Datsun/Nissan engine. MSA has a few books that will help. But to get you started you should also pick up a factory service manual like a Chiltons or Hayes. 1. You will need alot of tools. Mostly metric. But a basic socket and wrench set from 6mm-21mm will get you started. What ever you decide to do, do your homework first. Get the books and read, read, read. Nothing is worse than doing all this work only to have it blow up. Good luck

Piston to bore size is very critical. Too much clearance and the piston can wiggle leaving scars on the cylinder wall, causing premature wear and can also effect compression. Not enough clearance and the piston can sieze in the cylinder. You must also remember that the piston will expand as will the cylinder but because one is made of aluminium and the other of iron you will have different expansion rates. $.02

I'm just guessing here but it looks almost like that area is discoloured because of heat. Like it gets too hot for carbon to build up. I don't know. One way to check for blow-by would be to inspect the cylinder walls. There might be dark patches along the cylinder wall where the ring isn't making contact thus allowing blow-by.

Whoever e-mailed the seller on this one got the listing changed. It now shows it's a 73! And the seller has included the VIN> Sorry wrong thread. Please disregard.

Allmost sounds like the "headlights dim at idle" problem. I remember reading somewhere that swapping to a Maxima alternator will solve the headlight problem, don't know about the flashers.

Though installing a five speed is pretty easy there is more to it than you might think. You must also install a clutch pedal (which I think requires the entire brake clutch pedal assembly thingy), a master cylinder that bolts to the firewall. And run the line to the slave cylinder on the tranny. Also you will need a different center console. I'm probably forgetting something since I've never done this. Good luck.

You could try your local Nissan dealer. There are also a few places that should have them. Then again some of us might have a few nuts laying around. To help you better tell us where you are located?

The bad news, the answer to your question would be, yes. That would be pretty dangerous. This is the rust you can see. Imagine how much you can't see. You could hit a bump on the road and loose it. The frame rails look like they are gone along with the floor boards. Take a small tip screwdriver and start poking, push it against the metal and see if you can push it through. The good news, believe it or not but that is repairable.:classic:

I would suggest you take the block to an experienced engine builder. They can sonic test the cylinder wall thickness and tell you exactly how much it can be bored over. They would also be able to help you select the correct piston for you to achieve the compression ratio you are seeking.

No not really, I was just giving the other guys a hard time . Then again post some pictures, let me see what they look like.

Jack up the front of your Z at the crossmember. Leave the drivers window down. With both front tires in the air turn the steering wheel. You should be able to turn it with one finger.

Where did you go to get the allignment? We need to stay away from those crooks!

Sorry, they are gone.

My 73 (which was a california car) had 2 pumps. One electric by the tank which from the looks of the wireing looks factory. And another mechanical pump on the head.

If your lucky and the set up is spot on, maybe... 180-200 hp. It all depends on the tune.

I'm do not know to what year these hubcaps are from but I will give them to the first person that wants them. They have some rust on the back side and need work. Oh yea, I have four.

First I have to see if it works. Then I will probably sell it.

I could save you shipping and pick them up from your house.

If you do want to check the oil properly pour it into a clear plastic recepticle like a one gallon water jug. Make sure the plastic is clear and not smoked. Let it sit for a couple of hours after you fill it. If you do have water mixed with the oil it will be visible.

Brain fart. I forgot the picture.

I picked up a 72 and it had this radio. Is this a factory radio?

Hey, I got the car tonight. It's condition . But there are quite a few goodies:classic: I'll post the parts in the for sale forum tomorrow. Anyway the cowl looks to be rust free. I'll trade you for those fiberglass fenders (jk :classic: ) There is a dent on it that doesn't look to bad. If your ever in the area you can swing by and take a look.

Jeremiah, I'm picking up a 72 for parts as soon as this weather breaks. I was supposed to go get it today. Anyway I think the cowl is the only body part that is not rusted. Don't wait on me if you need one asap. I'll let you know when I get it. Ed