Ed

Break out the questions.:classic:

Don't worry Enrique, I could read your stuff forever. I learn something new everytime.:classic:

Good question, I'm also rebuilding a '81, F54. I have been using the torque specs specified in my service manual which has specs for L24-L28 70-78. I hope they are the same. BTW you shouldn't re-use the rod bolts. I would highly recommend either getting some new ones or go with ARP.

I always thought that removing paint could be done with a D/A and 60 grit without scratching or warping. Enrique, how would you recommend removing or preping the body for a fresh paint job. As far as I know my car has been repainted only once.

I couldn't agree with you more. Maybe have them do a radical change like NO wings, No carbon fiber, and a max HP of 500 or so.

Good to see you guys going. How will I be able to ID you?

You also have the vin # engraved on the firewall, drivers side below the cowl.

I finally got the O.K. to go to the MSA show April 25th:D . I was wondering how many members are going? Is there a place we could all meet and get a club photo? Or just shoot the breeze.

Well I tried to stay neutral on this one but with the Formula 1 bashing going on I had to pipe in. Now I'm not gonna bash IRL or CART or NASCAR. Heck I've watched it. It all has it's moments. To each his own. (I love the wrecks in NASCAR!) I enjoy the heck out of Formula 1. Been enjoying it since the 70's. Yea, it does get boring at times (most motorsports do when there isn't much going on) and the sound of the engines can put me to sleep in a few minutes (especially with some comentators). But then you have those races that make you wonder "How can these guys do this?" Driving at those speeds at the limit for over 90 minutes? 0-100-0 mph in 4 seconds. Up to 4 lateral G's. You cannot make a mistake (especially on tracks like Monaco). And don't forget the starts (probably the best part of the race) twenty guys doing over 100 mph and fighting for 2 meters of roadway, no bumping here. Put yourself in the drivers seat of any motorsport where you are constantly on the razors edge, can you handle it? Do you have the discipline? It's like all motorsports, Drama.

Yes you can. With money anything is possible. I've heard of that kind of HP output with a few bolt on's, and head work. Search through these forums and you will find that this topic has been discussed quite frequently. There is also a few engine builders out there that can do the work for you. Good luck.

The harmonica balancer! Cmon now. No engine could run with out the harmonica.

I might be wrong here but if the O2 sensor is after the cat then it IS in the wrong place. You would want the sensor close to the collector on your header to get an accurate reading.

Steve, sorry to hear this. You've put alot of time and money into this car and I can see how your sick of it. One thing after another, been there done that. But you've got to ask yourself will another car be dependable? Unless you buy a new car you might go from one moneypit into another. Actually, either way you slice it you will be spending money on a car. Either $300 a month on a new car or $300 a month for maintanance on your 280. Atleast with your 280 you already know alot. Your current problem doesn't sound to bad, maybe another clogged fuel filter or clogged injectors. A car with 250,000 would have accumulated some crap in the gas tank and might be clogging your filter. If you are still determined on selling your car let us know where you are. And pictures too. Unfortunately I couldn't tell you what it's worth without seeing it. I don't think you will get back what you have invested. Sorry. Good luck

You want to use the same harmonic balancer or crankshaft pulley that the engine came with. Especially if you are not going to have the enging rebalanced. If you look at the pulley you will notice little holes drilled along the sides these were put there to balance the rotating assembly. If you mix and match parts from different engines you MUST have the entire rotating assembly balanced. Otherwise your looking at a time bomb.

Gotcha. I think MSA has them. Part #23-4201.

Don't forget to install new bumpstops. Being lowered two inches will give you little room for suspension travel.

I'm not exactly sure what bar your talking about. Would it be the T/C rod? It goes from the bottom of the strut assembly towards the back into a pocket on the frame rail.

I'd love to buy a T. Is there a chance of getting some with long sleeve's?

My old one looks silver too. I wasn't sure if the PO had changed it. Thanks Guys.

Thinking of you Gary, and your daughter. Best wishes.

So will the anti-sieze help prevent rust from developing?

In the door jamb you have the door striker plate. Was this piece originally plated with yellow zinc?

Go to any garage and ask if they could hit your nuts (lug nuts) with their impact gun. Just to break them free.

Almost looks like your cam oiler is rubbing against the cam.

The oiler that you described as whacked out should be solid and parrallel with the cam. The oiler sprays oil on the cam lobe, if the allignment is off then you wouldn't be getting any oil on your cam/rocker. How do you adjust the valves you ask? Not to be rude or anything but that tells me you need to get a service manual. Seriously.