Ed

Can you hear the pump, pumping when you turn her over?

What a tool!:stupid:

If you can give us some more info. Like did it slowly come to a stop? Does it turn over? Any unusual noises? Start with the electrical. Does it turn over and do the spark plugs get spark? Next check and make sure the engine is getting fuel. (I can't help you with FI sorry). Let us know. After you eat offcourse.

I would say it depends on how much material is being removed and how much weight is still on the car. If possible pick a couple of points front to rear, top to bottom, side to side and measure before you cut. Then measure again and compare before you start to weld. Just to make sure you don't have a sag going. And on the flip side if you do preload the metal, how much? Good luck.

I wanted to vote on more than one. But I'll just put my 2c. worth on being silly. It IS a great opportunity for relatives to reunite and share a meal.

Yup, you can do anything with a little fab work.:classic:

I trully admire the overspray in the door jamb.

A motor flush is designed to break down / disolve built up sludge, and could possibly dislodge any large oily deposits that has been built up. Start by pulling the valve cover off. Inspect the rockers and the top of the head. Look for brown tar looking deposits / residue. It will flake off with a screwdriver. If your engine has these deposits then don't use the flush. These deposits will break free and possibly plug an oil passage or bind your oil pump (a rebuild will be necessary). Better than using the flush would be to change the oil / filter run for about 50 miles then change again. This should remove any old nasty oil. The tranny fluid is an old mechanics trick. The lighter weight oil (usually 20wt) will get into those small areas and loosen them up. Used to loosen up noisy rockers. Tranny fluid also has more detergents than engine oil and will clean up some minor residue.

I think only a bumper from a 73 will fit the early 260.

I'd like to add that I too have only had good experiences with the guys on this forum. Like Lance said: It's a good feeling to know that someone's word is still good.:classic:

Check with a few bone yards, you should be able to get some rims for a decent price. Just make sure you get ones with 4" of backspacing. By the way, Welcome! edit: If you have the original hub caps take care of them. In good shape those are worth some $$$.

You could try one of those "spook" spoilers. They are smaller and are not as low to the ground.

I know this might be kind of harsh but.... Assault with a deadly weapon comes to mind. What if you were walking with a girl down a road and your X saw you??????????????

My tach did the same. It slowly got worse, bouncing, reading 1k lower than actual. I ended up taking it out and taking it to a tach repair shop. $40.00 U.S. and it was fixed.

Looks smooth, soft and sexy. Like a pair of knee high boots.

Congrats Jeff! It finally paid off in the end.:classic:

Sorry to hear that you haven't gotten the engine running properly. Maybe as a last resort take it somewhere. Make it someone else's headache for a bit.

They have quite a colorful and diverse vocabulary on that site.

I think I see a bigger shed in your future.:classic:

On the rear side of the window/door there are four screws that hold the window channel in place, from the top, there is one behind the door pannel in the top corner, next there are two on the inside of the doorjam about 2 inches apart above the latch mechanism and then there is one on the bottom at the doorjam below the latch mechanism. Loosen up all four and you might be able to move it about 1/8 of an inch. You might also want to double check that your door is alligned properly. It might be a hinge problem. And last make sure your frame is straight.

Robert, I hope you don't have to lay under your car while removing undercoating. It's a messy, nasty job.

Your smoke was probably just steam. I don't think you dammaged your car that bad. Like 2many suggested dry it out change fluids and she should be alright.

I'll try and describe what it means. Camber = When mounted on a vehicle, viewing the drivers (left front) wheel from the front. If the wheel is perfectly verticle then you have zero camber. If the top of the wheel sticks in or towards the car \ then you have negative camber. If the top of the wheel sticks out or away from the car / then you have positive camber. This is usually adjusted either at the lower "A" arm or at the upper strut/shock mount. hope this helps.

In case you don't know. Line X is a similar product to Rhino Lining. A spray on liner used for the beds of pick-up trucks. I went to a body shop today to talk to the guys there about my car. We got on the subject of spraying Line X to the undercarrage and wheel wells. Now my plan was to strip to bare metal and protect it with POR-15. Then cover it with Line X. The body shop guy told me that the Line X can be sprayed directly to bare metal. No primer. And he said that it's guaranteed not to rust. The Line X is non porous and will seal the metal. If this is true then I could save a pretty penny and a lot of time. What do you guys think? Line-X

Very interesting stuff.