Ed

A motor flush is designed to break down / disolve built up sludge, and could possibly dislodge any large oily deposits that has been built up. Start by pulling the valve cover off. Inspect the rockers and the top of the head. Look for brown tar looking deposits / residue. It will flake off with a screwdriver. If your engine has these deposits then don't use the flush. These deposits will break free and possibly plug an oil passage or bind your oil pump (a rebuild will be necessary). Better than using the flush would be to change the oil / filter run for about 50 miles then change again. This should remove any old nasty oil. The tranny fluid is an old mechanics trick. The lighter weight oil (usually 20wt) will get into those small areas and loosen them up. Used to loosen up noisy rockers. Tranny fluid also has more detergents than engine oil and will clean up some minor residue.

I think only a bumper from a 73 will fit the early 260.

I'd like to add that I too have only had good experiences with the guys on this forum. Like Lance said: It's a good feeling to know that someone's word is still good.:classic:

Check with a few bone yards, you should be able to get some rims for a decent price. Just make sure you get ones with 4" of backspacing. By the way, Welcome! edit: If you have the original hub caps take care of them. In good shape those are worth some $$$.

You could try one of those "spook" spoilers. They are smaller and are not as low to the ground.

I know this might be kind of harsh but.... Assault with a deadly weapon comes to mind. What if you were walking with a girl down a road and your X saw you??????????????

My tach did the same. It slowly got worse, bouncing, reading 1k lower than actual. I ended up taking it out and taking it to a tach repair shop. $40.00 U.S. and it was fixed.

Looks smooth, soft and sexy. Like a pair of knee high boots.

looks like a four door of some kind

Congrats Jeff! It finally paid off in the end.:classic:

Sorry to hear that you haven't gotten the engine running properly. Maybe as a last resort take it somewhere. Make it someone else's headache for a bit.

Carl, Ya had me going there for a bit.

They have quite a colorful and diverse vocabulary on that site.

I think I see a bigger shed in your future.:classic:

On the rear side of the window/door there are four screws that hold the window channel in place, from the top, there is one behind the door pannel in the top corner, next there are two on the inside of the doorjam about 2 inches apart above the latch mechanism and then there is one on the bottom at the doorjam below the latch mechanism. Loosen up all four and you might be able to move it about 1/8 of an inch. You might also want to double check that your door is alligned properly. It might be a hinge problem. And last make sure your frame is straight.

Robert, I hope you don't have to lay under your car while removing undercoating. It's a messy, nasty job.

Your smoke was probably just steam. I don't think you dammaged your car that bad. Like 2many suggested dry it out change fluids and she should be alright.

I'll try and describe what it means. Camber = When mounted on a vehicle, viewing the drivers (left front) wheel from the front. If the wheel is perfectly verticle then you have zero camber. If the top of the wheel sticks in or towards the car \ then you have negative camber. If the top of the wheel sticks out or away from the car / then you have positive camber. This is usually adjusted either at the lower "A" arm or at the upper strut/shock mount. hope this helps.

In case you don't know. Line X is a similar product to Rhino Lining. A spray on liner used for the beds of pick-up trucks. I went to a body shop today to talk to the guys there about my car. We got on the subject of spraying Line X to the undercarrage and wheel wells. Now my plan was to strip to bare metal and protect it with POR-15. Then cover it with Line X. The body shop guy told me that the Line X can be sprayed directly to bare metal. No primer. And he said that it's guaranteed not to rust. The Line X is non porous and will seal the metal. If this is true then I could save a pretty penny and a lot of time. What do you guys think? Line-X

Very interesting stuff.

If you can get a flat tipped screw driver in there you can pry it out. I've done it a couple of times like that and never broken the plastic clip.

Good to see that the majority have real ones.

Gary, besides the obvious cost factor I think there might be a performance issue. I'm not sure here so pipe in someone. Opening the exhaust with duels would cause you to loose bottom end torque but will give you more power at the upper rpm range. And vice versa, moderate restriction would gain low end torque but you would loose power at the upper rpm range. I think......

Don't forget to replace the gasket and take advantage of this opportunity to flush and replace the coolant.

Hey Jeff, I feel your pain. I can't answer all your questions but will help you where I can. I installed an electronic ignition from a 81 on my 240. And I did have to use the ignition module that was on the distributor already. Just make sure your getting 12v to the module. I can't remember where the wires go exactly but I followed the wiring diagram that is on zcargarage (my car is in pieces otherwise I could go and look). I would think if the wiring to the distributor was messed up your car wouldn't start at all. When you do get it running you said you have to keep pumping the gas to keep it going. How does it seem to run when it is running? What rpm's does it get to? When I had my timing off by one tooth at the distributor she wouldn't run at all. It would start idle really rough and as soon as you gave it some gas it would die. I'm not that familiar with the holley carb but doesn't it squirt gas into the manifold when the butterfly's are opened? Is this a new carb?