Ed

If you can get a flat tipped screw driver in there you can pry it out. I've done it a couple of times like that and never broken the plastic clip.

Gary, besides the obvious cost factor I think there might be a performance issue. I'm not sure here so pipe in someone. Opening the exhaust with duels would cause you to loose bottom end torque but will give you more power at the upper rpm range. And vice versa, moderate restriction would gain low end torque but you would loose power at the upper rpm range. I think......

Don't forget to replace the gasket and take advantage of this opportunity to flush and replace the coolant.

Hey Jeff, I feel your pain. I can't answer all your questions but will help you where I can. I installed an electronic ignition from a 81 on my 240. And I did have to use the ignition module that was on the distributor already. Just make sure your getting 12v to the module. I can't remember where the wires go exactly but I followed the wiring diagram that is on zcargarage (my car is in pieces otherwise I could go and look). I would think if the wiring to the distributor was messed up your car wouldn't start at all. When you do get it running you said you have to keep pumping the gas to keep it going. How does it seem to run when it is running? What rpm's does it get to? When I had my timing off by one tooth at the distributor she wouldn't run at all. It would start idle really rough and as soon as you gave it some gas it would die. I'm not that familiar with the holley carb but doesn't it squirt gas into the manifold when the butterfly's are opened? Is this a new carb?

Hammer time.:classic:

I got the play sand for outside jobs and have been pretty pleased with the results. I'm building a blasting cabinet out of an old freezer and was wondering if I used the sand there on aluminium what would happen. I'm gonna get some glass beads for the cabinet.

Thanks Guys.

There are different types of blasting media out there. I was wondering if a specific type is better for a particular application. Or certain surfaces. So far I've encountered: Sand Glass Bead Aluminium Oxide Walnut shell Any others?

I'm getting that funny feeling, like when I used to climb the rope in gym class:love:

I'd put my money on a mustache bar bushing.

I had my electric fuel pump disconnected and ran only on the mechanical. No problems.

The ARP (Automotive Racing Products) bolts are high grade/high strength bolts. Stronger than the stock bolts. Although we are probably overdoing it on a street engine. But if you have ever seen an engine after an old rod bolt goes bad:disappoin :dead: . Atleast as a minimum on any rebuild use NEW rod bolts. The ARP bolts will let you feel a little better inside when you hold that gas pedal down and the engine is pushing 6K. You could order them through any automotive store, part #202-6003 which are for the L24-L28 series. VB and MSA sells them.

German parts are for German cars. Japanese parts are for Japanese cars. American parts are for American cars. Harley parts are for Harleys.

ScoHo was talking about the manifold. Seerex I think your talking about the balance tube.

What is your timing set at?

I would venture to guess that you have a fuel problem. If it was the timing you wouldn't be able to keep it running at high revs. And if it was iginition it wouldn't run at all.

It depends on how much you have the head milled. There is a maximum tolerance before the slack on the timing chain causes problems. Can't remember what it is off the top of my head, I'm guessing it's around .030. Don't know about the different headers, maybe the exhaust port on the head (round vs. square). I ran my su's with a header and no problems. I think that the su's will do fine until you go to a larger displacement ie.. 280z. A big boost in HP would be to do the L28 swap. Save the L24 for going to get groceries.

Can't find any of the wiring either. All the holes for the voltage regulator, fuel filter, wiring harness etc,, have been removed. Very clean!!

If you have a shop manual it should tell you how.

I believe all head bolts are the same from 70-78. I would suggest spending some extra bucks and getting the ARP bolts. You will be increasing the compression with the flat top pistons in the F54 and the extra bit of insurance will make it bulletproof. I've heard the turbo bolts are pretty good too. Torque specs for stock bolts should be the same. Torque specs for the ARP bolts are different. When I updated to my 5sp I went with the 81 clutch and pressure plate it looked like it was bigger/beefier with more surface area. I think they all bolt in the same.

If I remember correctly the N33 is from a early 260. Most of the bolt holes were to hold brackets for water and fuel lines. I can't remember which was what. A picture could help if you have one. The flying saucer IS your vacume advance and should not be blocked. There should be a small vacume hose going from your intake manifold to the nipple on the vacume advance. There should also not be any leaks on your intake manifold. Hope this helps.

The first thing I thought of when you said whining noise was a bad diff. Like with anything your gonna have to look around and try to find where it's actually coming from to be sure. Let us know and we will help.

Ivan, It almost sounds like your battery took a dump. As they go bad they won't hold a charge anymore. I'm not sure if you have this service available over there but here in the U.S. you can take your battery to an automotive supply store and they will test your battery no charge. And if you do replace the battery some good insurance is to change the voltage regulator especially if it's still the original.

I thought you had left already. Hadn't heard from you in a while. Good luck selling your car. And have fun in Hong Kong.

Happy Birthday!