Ed

My car had the same quality hole. It was more on the firewall then on the floor about the same level as the aftermarket drain. They used a big pointy chisel or a 9mm. I cleaned it up, ground away the ripped metal and made a nice smooth 1/2 hole. Put in a grommet and now it looks professionally done.

Why not just get new rubber plugs?

Hey Jerry, Good to hear no one got hurt. I've heard of several people going to the emergency room from carbon monoxide poisoning. It will all be over soon. I joined the Rochester club too. Been with them since August. I too heard about a Buffalo club but personally I don't think that attendance would be that great. There are atleast 5 Z owners around here that are part of the Rochester Z club.

Yea, I dodged a big one. Ten miles south of me got hammered 24" of snow. 300,000 people without power for atleast a week. I got about 2" of snow and no problems. My kids loved it cause they got a snow day out of it.

I'd be happy to help you out. I'll even help you work on her to make sure she makes the drive from Niagara Falls to Toronto. Drop me a PM.

Arne hit the nail on the head. You must measure the float level at the float itself. Do you have a Service Manual? This would tell you how to properly adjust the float. I made myself a "guage" out of thick craft paper to properly adjust the floats.

I too would like to get a set of fender mirrors.

Try these guys:http://www.gas-tank.com/

Hmmm, interesting point there Gary, my trailer is black and I'm sure the roof will have atleast 6-8 inches of snow all winter. I wonder if this would block the roof vents? Or if the heat created by the black exterior would cause condensation on the interior. Hmmm again, I can just leave my baby in the garage. I was just thinking of some options.

Thanks for the input so far. I do have a heater in my garage but I try not to use it too often as whenever I do condensation develops all over the car. Not to mention the big hole in my pocket. So this year I'm planning on putting her in my enclosed trailer and leaving her in there until the spring. Offcourse I'll take all the precautions to make sure she has a safe slumber until spring (gas, oil, and other fluids). Thanks

There have been some threads about storing a car for the winter. Battery, oil, tires etc... I was just curious because you see these climate controled storage places and then you have my garage. What kind of damage could my car sustain if parked in a DRY but very cold garage? I can see these climate controled storage places being a benefit where there is alot of moisture in the air. Give me some pro's or con's, what do you think? Thanks

Hi and welcome to the club. No Z's are not ricer's. No fart can mufflers and no stupid aero kits that make you look fast. Use the search feature on the upper tool bar input vairables like: smog, inspection HC & CO. There have been several good ideas and suggestions to help members pass their inspections.

Depending on the track maybe a rear diff gear ratio change. This would definately give you better acceleration, and hurt your top speed. But if you never reach top speed anyway then the diff would be the way to go.

A NOS system that is so fast it will rip the shirt off my bond girl!

So your going to pull the spindle pin while the control arm is still on the car? And then you want to remove the bushings with the control arm still on the car. First, are you going to make or use some kind of spindle pin puller? Don't use a hammer, it will create a mess if the pin is really stuck. To remove the bushings use a hack saw. Remove the blade and stick it through the hole. Reassemble the blade. Cut a 1 cm piece out of the inner sleeve all the way to the outer sleeve. Pry out the piece of sleeve with the rubber. This should leave you a 1+cm space on the outer sleeve to work on. Using the same teqnique with the hack saw carefully cut the outer sleeve. Make sure you don't cut the control arm. Then use a hammer and a flat tip screwdriver and get the entire bushing out. Lube the new bushing before you install.

Hopefully one of our club racers will give some input. But I can tell you this. To go faster you will have to spend $$. More $$$ the faster you will go. What kind of engine modifications are allowed?

Gas tank vent hoses, gas filler hose, antenna drain, taillights, rear hatch seal, rear hatch plugs, etc.....

You are about to become someones best friend.

I would say leave well enough alone. The only reason I can see for having the washers facing up is to prevent gouging the aluminum surface of the camtower/head. You have already done this. But if it will make you sleep better then go ahead and flip. Loosten all, flip, tighten in sequence. Don't move the head and your gasket should be fine.

In stock condition it would be one thing. But so many have been modified or changed in the last 30 years trying to decide which one is the "best" is in the eye of the beholder. Maybe we should ask which body, completely naked is the best? This way there are no modifications involved. Would you rather have a 72 that has had serious surgery or a 73 that has been well taken care of?

Here is a link to the same subject previously discussed: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6342&highlight=wipe+pattern

I couldn't get the photobucket to work either. I'd like to see or hear about the suspension upgrades. With big wheels like that I would hope they did some brake or suspension upgrades. Sure would be a nice project if you wanted a race car. $4500 might be a little on the high side, I'd have to see more.

Yup, Custom. Did you notice the snout is shorter.

If you are going to do more modifications in the future then a proper exhaust is your first step. Spend the money and buy a ceramic coated header. Or buy the naked manifold and have it high temp powder coated. If you don't protect it now a year from now you will wish you had. Painted headers often flake after a while and start to rust and look crappy. Once you get the headers intalled take it to a shop and have that custom exhaust built.

Hi, first off do you plan on doing any other modifications to your engine? Cam, ignition, carbs? If not I would suggest you keep your original cast iron exhaust manifold. Take it to a good performance exhaust shop where they use aluminized steel tubing and custom bend the entire exhaust. Go with a 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 maybe a resonator and you will be a happy camper. No need to fix something if it aint broke. Also, do a search around here on exhaust systems and you will find out that those pre-fabricated systems are not all they are made out to be. $.02