Ed

So, I'm cutting out the rust on my car. About a 1' square below the driver and passenger seat. Pretty much right where the frame rail ends. After I cut the square out I take a look down the inside of the frame rail and all I see is more RUST! I imagine that both rails are just as bad. Is it possible to remove just the frame rails without damaging the floor? I was thinking about replacing just the rusted spot in the floor board (about a 1' square) then getting the replacement rails. I do have an air chisel but that usually rips the metal apart. Unless I'm using it wrong. Has anybody else succesfully removed the rail from the floor?

Yea, the car is in pretty good shape. I got it in San Diego. So far the only rust is in the floor by the end of the frame rail. Part of the frame rail is gone too. I don't know but I think that those frame rails are rust magnets. The steel I used was 2" square tubing .120" and I got the specs right here on this site. I did a search on rotisserie's and came up with a couple of different designs. I just took what I liked from each and put it into a design that I liked. I got the welder at Harbor Freight. It's a gasless wire feed. I would have gone with the gas but I didn't have the budget (about 300 bucks more). I like it, it does require a little more cleaning though.

Notice the hole I cut out of the drivers floor board. Rusted! I still have to do the passenger side.

I finished my rotisserie. $80 bucks in metal and a 200 dollar welder. Now she's ready for the basting.:classic:

While I was taking my Zed apart I noticed a few places that fumes could get into. Check the fuel filler hose. Where it goes through the lower section of the quarter panel. It's supposed to have a gasket there. Mine was deteriorated and I had about a 1/4 inch gap. Also as Steve mentioned the two grommets at the rear lower end of the hatch could suck some fumes into the cabin area. And another place would be the emergency brake lever. There is a big gap there where the lever meets the sheetmetal. Maybe also check the shift boots. Good luck!

Not sure if a 73 would be the same? But on mine where the bumper mounts bolt to the body = 30 5/8". This is the width of the frame.

Do you guys think it is necessary to connect the hose to the intake manifold? Supposedly the coolant was to flow through the intake manifold to bring the carbs up to operating temp then the thermostat (the one on the back between the manifold and the fire wall) would close when the temp is appropriate. Now wouldn't it be better to keep the carbs cool by not allowing the water flow through the manifolds? This would keep the intake air cooler.

I wish I would have read you post earlier. I removed those little buggers the other day from my car. I laid there underneath the car for about 20 minutes trying to think of a way to get them out. I ended up using a pry bar. Like the kind a carpenter would use. It's about 14 inches long and has a 90 degree bend at one end. I stuck part of the prybar behind the lip of the little bugger and it came right out.

When I did my tour of duty in Okinawa around 1988 the cops were using Skylines.

I did mine in steps. First I did the L28 and had the 4 speed. Not too bad except when I was cruising down the highway. 75 mph = about 3500 rpm. Later when I installed the five speed out of a 81 not much changed except for the rpm's dropped about 800 rpm when I got to put it in fifth. about 2700 rpm. IMO that was the only difference.

Thanks guys, you have all been very helpfull! I will take this info to the machine shop. Ya'll are the best! Beers are on me.:classic:

What my machinist described was: Once you cut out the old seat the new seat needs to be placed at a particular depth into the head. If you place the new seat too deep then the end of the valve stem will stick up higher on the top of the head and the springs wouldn't compress enough. Don't put it deep enough then the valve stem won't stick up high enough requiring additional adjustment on top. He wants to know if there is a specification for this. Like when you replace the valve guide, so much of the guide needs to protrude above the surface of the head and this is measured from the spring seat. So what I'm asking is how deep does the new valve seat go? And where do you measure all this from? I guess it would be the same as the compressed spring length. Thanks guys. Jeremiah, I'll give Barry a call tomorrow. R U going to the car show by Syracuse this sat?

Hey guys I need some help. My head is ready to have the seats replaced with the hardened steel ones but my machine shop won't touch it without any specs. Ie., what distance should the valve stem should protrude on the top of the head and where do you measure from. If anybody knows of a shop that has worked on the nissan head (N42) that might have the specs on it could you give me there number. I really need your help here guys. Thanks Ed

I have a 1" anti-sway bar up front and put the stock sway bar from a early 260 in the rear and it made a big difference. From what I've heard the upper strut braces that you are talking about are quite involved. The simple little bar does little to be effective. There is an old post about those strut tower bars around here somewhere and it has a bunch of pictures of different bars. There was also alot of discussion about the effectiveness of these bars. If I were you start with the sway bars and go from there.

Thanks for the input guys, I'm looking for something that is not really for racing in any event (but I guess it couldn't hurt). I just want to increase the safety a little and I think a roll bar looks cool. I was thinking of a four point. The front points bolting to the body behind the seats where the seatbelts have that pocket and the rear points to the strut towers.

I want to install a roll cage in my Z. I looked at the MSA one and didn't like it. Then I found these S W Racecars can someone make some suggestions or recommendations. Thanks.

Yea!! Get some. I love the last picture!

I recently ordered a cam from MSA also, well I can't say recently since I've been waiting for 3 months. They said they had a problem with them not having the sprocket hole in them. I did order the whole kit from them. They also suggested I remove the cam spray tube and block off the holes since it's an internally oiled cam. Do you guys know if the cam is guaranteed for life? I'm building an engine and until I get my car done I probably won't run it for a while. Phred, do you have any specs for heads? I'm putting new intake seats in a N42 and my machine shop can't find specs. Mainly the valve stem height.

One thing I learned on my trip from San Diego to Niagara Falls is have a GOOD spare tire for your trailer. I also got one of those little 5 ton floor jacks that you can pick up at an auto parts store. Good luck on your trip.

What are the benefits of installing these camber plates?

It sounds like you already did your homework. The N42 already has large valves and is a direct bolt on. If you are going to look for a head take your time and find one in good condition. I'm having a hard time finding specs to rebuild mine and it's been at the machine shop for a couple of months now because I have to wait for parts that are on back-order. If I remember correctly the N42 head with the flat top pistons in the F54 will give you 10:1 compression.

I got a sway bar for my 73 out of a 74 that was being scrapped.

Sorry about your loss. I'll definately keep an eye open here in the northeast (incase the thief gets this far before being castrated).

It's always sad to see one go.

On my last rebuild I assembled all the chain components then I put the cover on. You just have to make sure that the distruibutor drive sprocket thingy is properly alligned. I don't even own one of those cam chain tensioners. Just assemble it all with the cover off. Alot easier!