Ed

This is where I hope to put the shine back in the parts.

This is what she looks like now. Naked.

There was only a little here but it definately looks like rust.

The one in front of the seat support goes through the metal. It's about 2 inches in diameter.

It's taken me a almost a week and I'm almost done (I hope). I did find some rust here are some pics.

FWIW, I ordered the 7033 cam from MSA. I talked to Bill for a bit because I was wanting the get the some specs to have the new intake seats installed properly (he didn't know). Anyway, he told me that they get over 400 orders & emails a day with only 4 sales reps. and they are VERY busy. Have any of you tried to call lately? All I get now is that automated answering system. I had to call four times in two days to get through. I tell you what, selling Z parts seems to be a good buisness.

Good to see that you got what is hopefully enough from the insurance co. to fix your car (your not going to visit earl again?) When it comes to the maintanance on your Z.... Like I tell my wife. It's either money for the maintanance or money for a car payment. I have found that a $300 dollar a month budget goes a long way when it comes for maintanance. In fact I've saved enough to make some upgrades.

Z-boi, The "power band" on your car should be between 2500-6000 rpm. Look at your rpm guage before you shift. Atleast take it to 5000 rpm.

Water will spit from the exhaust after you first start it. This is built up condensation from the atmosphere (kind of like a cold drink sweats). This will usually evaporate after the car warms up. Chances of water getting from the engine to the back of your tail pipe are pretty slim. When a head gasket goes you will usually get steam coming out of your pipe, which is not good. When you revvvedd your engine are you sure it was dust. Maybe it was a little blue smoke which is normal for an old car.

I'm thinking that your original soleniod fried. As it fried it took either a wire, connection or fuse with it. Now that you have a new unit you need to find what else it took with it. Start with a voltmeter, check the fuses and see why your not getting juice.

I like my steak medium well.:classic:

So you took the old starter with the solenoid to get tested, they told you the solenoid was shot, correct? Then they sell you a new starter with solenoid and it doesn't work?:stupid: That's gotta suck. Disconnect the the starter just the little wire going to the solenoid. Hook up a voltmeter. Negative to the ground on the starter and positive to that wire. Give it a test (turn the key). If the voltmeter doesn't move then your not getting juice to the starter and it's time to figure out why. Check the connections, fuses, and wiring. Good luck.

I've been thinking MSA also, seems they have the best deal for the entire kit, (springs, pads & new rockers). They don't specify what brand of cam they sell. VB sells Crane cams. More expensive if you factor in the springs, pads & rockers. If I do order from MSA can they tell what thickness lash pad I will need by me telling them what's been done to the head?

Have you tried using some jumpers directly to the starter?

Just curious, I'm getting ready to buy an aftermarket cam. Mostly for street but definately modified. What would you suggest? And where can I get it. So far my options are Motorsports or V.B.

Turn the headlights on and turn it over. Do the headlights dim when you try to start? If not it might be the starter. If it turns over but won't start it might be something else. And if the headlights go dim when you try to start it, it's a dead battery.

I'm using Spinas Engine shop in Ransomville. He mainly deals with race engines and he was recommended by the Nissan dealer. I went to go and check out his work and shop, so far I'm happy. He's been working on my head now, which was pretty bad. I'll let you know how it turns out after I get the seats done.

Since you are new to this and if you still feel that there is something wrong with your car my advice would be to take it to a shop. Go to someone that has experience working on Z's. Some shop's will let you go with your car and see what the mechanic is doing. I usually never ask and just walk back there as the mechanic is getting ready to tinker on my car. Then I stay out of his way and start asking questions. You could learn so much in twenty minutes. If there is nothing wrong then you pay a little. Usually just a diagnostic check. If he does a little work on it, it's usually about $50 an hour. It's well worth the education.

Jeff you said you had oil dripping out of the header. I assume that there is no exhaust on it. Just a header? And does is smoke pretty bad when you first start it up? Or does it smoke the whole time?

2many, wouldn't the pressure from the exhaust prevent oil seeping down the exhaust guide?

The only thing I could think of is if your 260 has a rear anti-sway bar and the 240 didn't. Reason being in my 240 I had a custom 2.5" exhaust made. At the time I didn't have the sway bar. A few months later I added the sway bar and it rubbed against the exhaust. Nothing a BFH couldn't fix.

Shotime, what part of NY are you in? I'm currently getting a head done over here on the west side. New seats & guides plus a shave.