Ed

I thought the reason for shaving the top of the head was to maintain true allignment of the cam. If the top of the head is warped then cam tower allignment will off thus resulting in a cam that is binding. And speaking of shims where could you even get those things anymore? Do shims come in different thicknesses? And couldn't you compensate shaving the head by a thicker gasket?

I did it. Hooked up the compressor, installed the breaker in the fuse box and turned it on. No problems runs like a charm. Either I'm lucky or just good.:classic:

I looked at the way my dryer was hooked up and I'm copying it. I just can't see paying $50 bucks for someone to come out and do something that I feel I could do myself. If I paid to have stuff done all the time I wouldn't learn anything, and I'd be broke. I'll try anything atleast once. (Except licking my fingers to test the wiresLOL )

I'm trying to have a head (N42) rebuilt. I want to have the old seats replaced and have a 3 angle job on the valves. The machine shop said he would need to have the specs to do the job properly. Mainly he was concerned with the valve height, how much should the valve portrude at the top of the head and where do you measure it from? Also the maximum amount the head could be shaved before having to use shims on the cam tower. Can anybody help me here? Thanks

She's a beauty!!! If I had the money I'd get her. IMO she's worth it. A yellow Zed was my first Love. I saw here getting on the freeway in El Cajon, CA. and she looked just like this one. A year later I got my own.

I'm not sure but a machine shop should be able to tell you. I think they do some kind of sonic testing to measure the wall thickness and go from there. Wouldn't you rather get a L28 block and bore it?

Is it zinc or zinc chromate? Because zinc is kind of dull silver looking in color right? And most of the new bolts look kind of goldish/copperish. ??? Should I have the old rusted nuts & bolts plated? Or would it be better to just buy new ones. The ones that are really bad are the nuts that hold the rubber strip to the bumper.

O.K. Brian, You've got me rollingROFL . That was a good one!:classic:

My mistake, I meant phase. The specs say its a "single phase 240v".

I was looking at air compressors and was wondering what the difference is between "single stage & dual stage"? Is single stage 120v and dual stage 240v? When doing the wiring for it would the dual stage get connected like an electric dryer or range?

Next time hit your horn and make a funny face.

While taking apart my rear bumper I noticed most of the bolts were rusted pretty bad. Now the bumper is going to the platers to get a new finish. But what do I do with the bolts? If I plate those will I have to chase the threads? Or should I try and find new bolts that have some kind of plating already on them?

I don't know if it's a LHD thing, on mine it says "T E M P" along the top of the guage.

Thanks Guys, I think I'm gonna let the machine shop work on it.:classic:

Doesn't look like the cops like that very much.

I do agree that each guage has there own idiosycrancies. And the only way to know for sure would be to use the direct probe. But like you said most Zed's run around the middle. Which should be around the "E" & "M".

I tried breaking up the easy out but no luck there. I was thinking about drilling around it, but I have a feeling that the drill bit will break. Then it will just get worse. The only thing that seems to work are grinding stones. I used those small stones attached to my dremmel tool and was able to cut it down a little before I ran out of stone. This process would also enlarge the hole. Could I fill it with JB Weld then tap it? Would it hold up? Or should I have it welded then re-tapped? I was thinking since the machine shop charges by the hour I wanted to strip the head down and have them do only the work I couldn't (seats, guides & valves). Getting that broken stud (that is now filled with hardened steel) out is going to take them a while. If they are just going to cut around it then have it welded well, that is something I could do. I think.

Operating temps should be around 180-190 degrees F. On your temp guage it should point between the "E" and the "M".

I was removing the studs from my head. After letting them soak in WD-40 I go to remove them. They all came out except for one. It broke. So I said to my self "here I go again" as I was having flashbacks. So I drilled out the center and proceeded to use the easy out. That broke too. I took out the dremmel tool and cut a slot on the tip of the bolt for the impact screw driver. I ended up breaking the tip off the bit. This bolt does not want to come out. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could do next. I tried drilling it out again but a piece of the easy out is stuck in the center (hardened steel) of the broken stud.

Who ever told you that there was no gasket lied. There is a gasket. It covers the intake and exhaust manifold where it meets the head. Unfortunately there is no easy way to do it. You have to remove both the intake and exhaust manifolds to get to it. Some bolts you can get to from above some from below. You should be able to take the Intake manifold off with the carbs as one piece. After you get it all off make sure you replace the studs (these become brittle with age). If everything goes well it should take you only about 5-6 hours.

Good to hear the plugs are ok. hopefully you don't have too much damage.

Actually he loves the snow. I take him outside and he goes nuts. I'll post some more pix.

I've also heard that porting & polishing the intake runner will disturb the turbulance that is required to maintain air/fuel mixture. Thus causing the fuel to accumulate on the port wall and ending up as drops. You want to keep a rough surface on the intake side (about a 60 grit). On the other hand the exhaust side you could polish to a mirror finish to improve flow. The valves would benefit the most by doing a 3 angle valve job. This would increase flow. I would think that polishing the valve would be beneficial if this engine was torn down frequently like in racing applications. If you polish the valve then run the engine for normal street use eventually you would have build up.

Pull the spark plugs and look at the tip. If you did damage a valve the tip of the plug will be destroyed:cry: . And it would only get worse from there. Start looking for that L28.

That's nice, especially for that price!