AZDatsun

Just reporting back that it was indeed that contact that was causing the fuel pump to run with the key in the on position I bent it very slightly away from the contact and now it is running like it should

I have a 75 and the fuel pump runs in the on position I know that is wrong so I started sleuthing. I opened my AFM and I noticed that even when the flap is fully closed the points circled are always making contact. I have read that’s the fuel shutoff switch so it makes sense to me if there was some gap when the flap is fully closed right? If so should I just bend the thicker wire more straight to get some separation?

Well shoot I will put my old regulator back on and see if that helps. It’s not leaking out of the vacuum line it’s already not connected as part of this testing and nothing from there. If not I guess I will try a third regulator

I am experiencing fuel pressure leak down in the rate of 36 psi to 0 in less than 10 seconds. I have an aftermarket fuel pump so I put in a check valve right after the pump and now if I clamp the return line the pressure will not bleed down so the check valve is working. As soon as I unclamp the return line the pressure drops to 0. My pressure gauge is right after the front fuel filter before the rail starts. I also disconnected my fuel rail and the injectors are not leaking. I also replaced my FPR and there are no leaks from that. Any ideas why this is happening ?

Old thread I know but I ended up with the same booster and it looks like zcardepot is selling them now also where the vac line output is top left. What car was the vacuum line off of that made this work?

I just hover above my car using my extreme mental powers

I put in the speakers I got and here are some pictures. I also took pics of what I assume are OEM speakers. The back side of the one I pulled is the first picture. They screwed right in no issues at all

Also https://www.desertdatsuns.net and reach out to cgsheen on here

Stainless of course preferably one handed down in your family. You know the ones you don’t use tucked away in some cabinet

I would weld a spoon bowl over the holes because the curvature of the spoon will create a Venturi effect at higher speeds and aid in redirecting the fumes back out while creating substantial downforce for road racing. Ok not really but would be a good conversation starter

If you can get OEM noise might be coming from a restriction in the line or in the filter I would check that first

They sell the labels new I am assuming you mean the key code label but they sell others also https://www.zeddsaver.com/products/copy-of-datsun-240z-260z-280z-rear-hinges

If you ever want to borrow a welder or come over and weld I have one and I am in Gilbert did my floor panels/frame rails and tons of other stuff with it. Just let me know. unfortunately I was too late for the panel bond posts

I went with these but I won’t know if they fit or sound like yet I ordered on Amazon https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r14x2/ as soon as they are in I will give a review but probably won’t be until Christmas when I get some time off

Are you accounting for drag