Yaboyolin

Yes the fusible links are all new, the old ones had deteriorated. The fuses are also new and the correct amperage. Ill double check connections tomorrow though and use the wiring diagram Zed provided to check everything with that

Yes sorry, 1977 280z 2+2. Switch is out. I have power at the switch from the green wire but the other 4 connections have no power. That's all tested directly on the switch not at the connectors

Hey guys, final issue on this car before its all ready (besides bleeding tbe breaks). I have no turn signals or hazards. Not flashing on the dash, no lights. It seems like the wiring all goes through the hazard switch. I have power to the switch, I think its a green wire. But out of the switch I have no power at all. Doesnt matter whether its on or off. I also have no power to the flasher units. Either of them. Fuses are good. Connections are cleaned. Will a new hazard switch magically fix both issues? Or am I missing something here?

I ended up finding another old post on zcar that stated using a heater hose from some other car, cant remember the part number put you cut off about half of it and it works great! It even has one side that is a little bigger. Runs great now, thank you all!

So I did find a vacuum leak. A rather big one at that. The first picture is a hose that's directly under the intake manifold. The picture might be upside. The second picture is of my current setup. Where dose the hose in the first picture go? If I hold my finger over the hole the idle gets real rough. The third picture is of what I assume to be the PCV valve

The fuel pressure is 35 or so PSI. It sure seems they're all firing, it runs great above 750 RPMs. The car would run for 10 seconds or so before dieting with the old AFM. I'll check for vacuum leaks as well.

Hey everyone, I've got a 77 Z 2+2 right now and I'm having some issues. The car simply won't idle or if it does it runs really rough at 500 RPMs. It revs up and drives fine, but if I stop it usually dies. I tried the simple thing, to adjust the idle from the idle screw, but the idle will not raise up or lower. It has a sweet spot where it runs best, but 500 RPMs is where the engine is determined to idle. The fuel regulator is hissing. I checked the vacuum line for gas and there wasn't any noticible amount, but I'm pretty positive it shouldn't make that noise. The AFM is new, as the old one wouldn't let the car run at all. There isn't any black smoke or anything of that nature when the car dies. It just sputters and dies. I've read to block of the auxiliary air thing, and will be doing that today, but was curious if any of you had other ideas?

Where exactly am I supposed to buy GL4 oil? Ive called all the local places and they only carry GL5 or they carry GL4 140w

Alright, thank you. I was just worried about the fact that I didnt know if this granny came out of a Z or ZX and I dont have a manual on a ZX

Nothing's wrong. I just got the car running and am doing a complete fluid flush because I don't know how old any of it is. The oil I have is GL5 80-90w. Its shell gear oil. We run it in other transmission on various vehicles and tractors on the farm, never had an issue. I'm just curious if 80-90w will work on all 5 speed Z and ZX series transmissions

Yes I read that entire EFI book you linked. Pin 1 had power. It was also connected to the coil correctly. I went through the rest of the steps the book said to do. Then Pin 10 had no power, as the book as the book said it should. I went through the wiring and all the relays until Pin 10 had power. This still didn't solve the issue. I recleand all connections and grounds. Nothing. I took out the EFI relay that was in the engine bay and hard wired it. This didn't solve the issue. I cleaned and redid all connections again. I rehardwired that relay and it started up. I'm guessing that relay was just bad and the connector was really dirty. I did follow that book. If you read the par of the book that helps with the no starting issue you'll see that I followed it step for step

Hey guys, I finally got my 1978 Datsun Running. If youve been following my problem in the fuel injection section, you should know that this car has already been a headache. Anyways. This car was a 5 speed swap. Not sure if out of a ZX or just a Z. Ive got a 5 gallon bucket of 80-90w gear oil sitting in front of me, will this work? Ive read about GL4 and other weights, but this stuff is free and works good (My stepdad owns 15 tractors and this is all he ever uses). Ive read that you can use 80-90w, but I didnt know if there was a difference between the ZX and Z trannys as I dont know which this is. Thanks

Alright, another update. I now have power to pin 10 and still nothing. There are two wires hanging below the dash that seem to be coming from the ignition relay but arent connected to anything. The ignition relay has two white/red wires, they are both connected to the hanging white red wire and it has power. Then there is a blue/red wire on the relay that is connected to the hanging blue wire. This wire never has power. These wires are just hanging, not connected to anything and there are no wires anywhere around that seem they might connect and no they don't connect to each other. Remember, there is no fuel pump relay as it is hardwired. Ive gone through the FSM to no avail. Everything seems to have the power it needs, it just won't start

Injector cooling fan? I've never seen that on an EFI and it doesn't pull up through any searches. That specific connector gets power at two of the blue wires and connects to 2 other blue wires whenever the key is switched to "on". The green wire grounds to the middle blue wire. If I jump it it doesn't accomplish anything. Fusible links are in good shape. The fuel pump is on a switch. All relays except for the injector relay that is specific to the '78 came off a running '77. The ECU is off a running '77 280z. Pin 10 still has no power. There is power to the relays. The only other thing that comes up is under the dash on the passenger side, there is a light blue wire with no power that isn't connected to anything. There is a white/red wire that has power but isn't connected to anything. There is a green wire under the center console that has power but isn't connected to anything. There are three wires, a light blue, blue/red, and blue/white wire that were pulled up next to the fuel pump switch next to the hazard switch. The light blue one has power. No idea what the others go to. I wired them together and there is still no power at 10. What am I missing!? I mean, the injectors have power but they aren't spraying. Do I need to take them all off and clean them? From the experience I have, not all the injectors are going to fail at once.

Its in the engine bay, 5 blue wires and a green. I cant seem to find this exact relay in the wiring diagram

Terminal 10 on the ECU connected pin was reading no voltage and it's my understanding that the thing in the photo above is the injector relay, which isn't working. So I'm replacing that and will report back.

What is this thing and is it important?

Alright, another update. Pin 1 has power, I swapped ECUs with a running 1977 Datsun and it still isn't firing. I've read through the manual and according to all my tests it's the ECU. So why isn't it firing?

Alright, a little update on the car. It has fuel all the way to the injectors and runs on ether. There is a small fluctuation of power on the injectors, but it's hard to read with a voltmeter because they bounce from 0 to 3 volts back and forth, not sure if the voltmeter doesn't have enough time to read the voltage as it's digital or if that's all I'm getting for power. The issue seems to be that it's not injecting fuel into the engine, so what now?

Right, there was no fuel getting through the line. Now how exactly do you bleed the injectors? Or do you even have to? I know it's a must with diesels. And how do I check the pressure regulator?

No idea when it last ran. I do have a nice spark and it will run on SF. The PO stated that the fuel pump was new and hooked up correctly, but I crawled underneath the car to check this just now and discovered that the pump was connected backwards and is leaking like a siv. So I'll replace that in the next couple days and get back to you. I assume not getting gas to the engine is probably an issue when it comes to combustion engines is there anything I can also check while I wait on a fuel pump?

Hey guys, I've got a 78 280z that won't start. I think I've narrowed it down to the ECU but I'm not positive. I've read through the manual thing but FI is something I've never touched before, always had carbs. Basically the power relay is clicking, the air regulator has power, the injectors fluctuate a little with a voltmeter on it, but only a couple of volts. I tried the injector sound test with a screwdriver and that doesn't seem to give me anything. The pressure regulator doesn't buzz like it said it should in the manual, but I have no idea why it would buzz at it doesn't have any power running to it. I know the fuel pump works, it has a manual switch and you can hear it run. Sorry for the newb question, but just looking to get some insight as this is the only thing keeping my Z off the road.

Hey guys, I'm new here and realtime relatively new to the Datsun world. My uncle has a 280z that I don't think I've ever seen because it's been getting "restored" by some backyard mechanic. It's a messy deal, but that's not the point of this topic. I've been reading through the forums, and I know the DD question has been asked many times before, but there's a couple specific questions that weren't answered for me. To start with, I drive a 1978 MGB roadster everyday so I'm used to odd, uncomfortable, and unreliable cars. It rides awful, it leaks oil, it's starting to rust, and it's just all around a bad car. But I love it because it's a true classic British sports car and I've made it mine. The cars in VT, I'm in Texas at the moment in college and am working on a ratty 1970 Chevy C10 to drive back to Vermont after this semester. I love the connection you make with these old cars and recently have fallen in love with the Z cars. They have that Ferrari look and sounds. I won't be buying the car for a few months, but want to be able to start looking and learn more about the cars so I can make an educated purchase. My budget will be slim, probably less than $3k. I know that not going to get me a nice car, but having a rat and being able to make it mine over time is preferred by me. So the basic question is, what's the car for me? A 240z, 260z, 280z, or a 280zx? The car will be driven in the Vermont winters, where yes, they salt the roads. I know the logical thing to do is to buy a beater and drive those in the winter, but I've done that with a Honda Civic and Toyota Camry and hated it. It's impossible for me to connect with those kinds of cars. So as much as I'm sure you all aren't gonna like this, it's gonna happen. So where do I need to look for rust and where does it need the most protection? I know in my B, the doglegs and rockers are problematic, as they are in most cars, is this also true with the Datsuns? And how do they handle in the snow/ice? I'm sure the 280zx will be the cheapest, but I hate the long nose/bumper thing, is there anyway to cheaply alter that so it at least sorta looks like an older Z? It's also my understanding that the later Zs had a handful of smog equipment, how difficult is this to remove? On an MG it's as simple as just taking it out and plugging all the old hoses, is the Z similar? Should I look for a carbureted or EFI car? My MG has a Weber DGV and a manual choke, and my Chevy the original Rochester Quadro, so having a carb that needs to be fiddled with is preferred by me, I like the simplicity of not having a computer run system. But which is better on these cars? I love driving and working on these old cars. The sounds they make, the smiles they bring, the joy of the open road. That's what it's all about for me. I'm hoping a Z can add fuel to the fire that my MG has already started (And possibly be a little more reliable, Lucas electronics haunt my dreams) any other questions or advice? I'll be buying the best car I can afford but I'd love to hear from the experts. Sorry if some of these questions have been asked a million times. If you have any other threads or sites that I can read on I'd greatly appreciate it. I'll likely be asking many more questions in the future. Olin