ScooterZ76

I got a Holley 12-130 Fuel Mat pump. It has a vent line i the pump. Can I get rid of the vent lines on the back or the tank going to the canister, and the canister for that matter, in the passenger side quarter panel? They make it a a real PIA to install and remove tank. If so, should I put roll-over valve in new vent line between tank and steel vent line going to front of car?

I did floor pan repairs a couple years ago. don't want to do again. Car comes off the road pretty soon up here in the great frozen north. I'll tackle it then. I've got a factory service manual on hard drive but I can't find this repair in it. Any clues?

I have 1976 280Z, early series. I discovered that the passenger side carpet is wet and kinda goey and smells like antifreeze. Am I correct to suspect the heater core? I haven't done a real close inspection yet. I also read that there are a couple hoses inside the car attaching the connectors that go through firewall to core that can fail. My main questions are 1. Can the heater core be replaced without removing the whole dashboard? Something I really don't want to do. And 2, does any one sell a new core? Or are my only options to have this one redone, or cobble up a core from another car?

Are tanks from 240, 260 and 280 interchangeable? Might make it easier to source a tank.

I have 1976 280Z w/ Rebello 3L L28 with Jenvey ITB's. Makes 325 hp. Took car to to first track day since engine install Monday. When tank gets to about 1/2 full, fuel sloshes away from fuel pick up in bottom tank causing engine to stumble. I'm using stock tank with original pickup and returns going to Airtex high flow fuel pump mounted on modified stock fuel pump bracket and stock fuel lines to fuel filter. Has anyone else had similar problem or solution? This is primarily a street driven car with occasional track days and autocross events. I really don't want to chop up and install fuel cell.

It won't be running for few weeks yet. This is part of full new drivetrain rebuild. Rebello 3 liter FI stroker, 325 hp, upgraded 5 speed trans, 3.90" diff with Quaife. Engine is in transit. should arrive next week. Then get it all in car and wired. My biggest issue right now is what old wiring needs to be ripped out without taking something I need.

All electric. See Silvermine Motors website for more photos. The kit is pretty slick. But instructions are very lacking. Motor on column mounts to right and above column when installed and fit is very snug. 2 firewall plates are supplied as the 240 and 280 are different.

Getting column into final location is a bit tricky. Got to unbolt top bolts, slide it in and out of lower clamp, everything still loose, until you can swing motor up behind the vent hose. Then tighten bolts. Finally got the ECU mounted in passenger side footwell. Had to take silver bracket off front of heater box in front so that wires from column can be run underneath. Plugs are too big to fish thru under heater box. The plugs in box are from steering column and just reach. Hoping that other wires that will have to run to engine ECU will fish under heater and won't have to take apart again. Not hard, just PIA.

Got the column loose hung last night. That's a bitch by yourself. Got to have an extra set of hands to fasten mount plate to firewall. Still looking for a good spot for the control module. There's about 3' of wire on the column so it has to be in that range, but I'm having a tough time finding a spot. That's my main hang up. Plus I'm not much at wiring. I've got a buddy that is but he's busy with a project of his own. Hope he can be my ace in the hole.

Since I trashed my shoulder I thought it would be a good idea to put power steering in my '76 280Z. I bought the kit from Silvermine Motors. There are no installation instructions supplied. The column is pretty straight forward but I don't really know where to put the control unit. Al lhe says is attach it to the firewall. There doesn't seem to be a lot of space on the driver's side. I have the console out as I doing a refurb of the whole driveline. I can't do the wiring right now as the new engine comes with a new ECU. Anyone have any experience with this kit?

Who did you buy it from? Scott

I've seen 2 different "complete" electric power steering kits advertised. One claims it is adjustable and costs $1500.00, $600.00 more that n the other. The other kit sells for $900.00 and claims its very easy to install. Claims everything can be installed in a few hours after old column, etc. is removed. Does anyone have any experience with these kits they can share?

I have the 5 speed in a shop, torn down, ready to reassemble. Synchros and friction pads look OK according to builder. He suggested replacing if available. This is a competition trans model #32010-N3200. Information I was able to find on another chat line is it uses Servo type synchronizers. It seems to work fine, except bushings in shifter were shot. Was considering MSA short throw shifter.

I have a 5 speed competition, close ratio, 5 speed in my 1976 280Z that was installed in 1976,77. I purchased car in 1979. The part #is 32010-N3200. It uses Servo type synchronizers. I'm looking for a synchros and friction pads, seals and bearings. I believe standard seals and bearings work. Any suggestions where I can locate these synchros and pads?

I having a 3L L28 stroker built for for 280Z. It has a 5 speed that was installed by original owner almost from new. I still have the original 4 speed and driveshaft. I am looking for a a reliable shop to go through this trans prior to mating up with new engine. This trans has been rebuilt once back in the 1980's. Can anyone recommend a shop in western Michigan that can handle this project? I'm hoping Kalamazoo or Grand Rapids area.