just1n962

That's a pretty good idea I think I'll give that a go. I appreciate the help and I'll update when I've run the test

That's for the regulator that I bought off amazon that I don't have yet. What I'm currently running is the cheap pump with no regulator straight to the carb. I'll put the pressure regulator on if I switch back to the more powerful fuel injection fuel pump though. Hmmmm no I do not know the fuel pressure and flow at the carb inlet. How would I go about finding that out?

Well there is no return line... It's a brand new Holley 390 CFM.

The carb never actually consumes that much. That's how they measure the things but the carburetor itself has a built in regulator that opens and closes depending on how much fuel the carb needs.

Okay sweet. Yeah that's fine. The whole car is extremely loud anyways ha

Just a simple 4.5 to 9 psi regulator off of amazon. By bypass line do you mean a line that will allow fuel to return to the tank? If so then yes it does.

So I have my swap completed and I have been running a little 40 dollar pump from autozone with a 35 GPH flow rate and 4 PSI and it seems as though my holley 4bbl needs a good bit more than that... With the carb tuned I can now get it to idle nicely and I even was able to take it up the road a little but if you put your foot down a little and get the thing past 3000 rpm it wants to shut off. It's just not getting the fuel.. Now I know that I should have the 80 GPH flow rate pump but it's just so expensive... I still have my fuel injection fuel pump and just ordered a pressure regulator. Will the regulator be okay under the fuel injection pump? I'd appreciate any help here. (And please don't tell me how I should have stuck with EFI)

so new alternator?

Well you wouldn't think it would be simpler to just take out all wiring from my vehicle and replacing it with 260z wiring? I wouldn't be trying to mix and match the two. It would be either one or the other. It probably won't work out though and I'll just keep my harness. Oh by the way, my vehicle not starting was simply caused by one of the connectors on my alternator.... It was never really connected and the day after I drove it (before starting it that day) I decided to tighten down the bolt connection and that's what caused my wiring to go crazy and my positive battery cable to spark... I pulled that red/white wire off the alternator today and it went back to turning over normally..

Yeah I wouldn't want that. Okay will do! Thanks Steve. I'm also looking at a couple 260zs right now and might end up gutting the wiring out of one of those and just simplifying my life.

Haha yes I know. I figured you would be disappointed but this is definitely the route that I want to go.

Hello all. So I made the decision to ditch my ever failing fuel injection system in my 75 280 and do the four barrel carb conversion. (I have the Arizona Z car intake and holley 390 cfm.) Everything is hooked up and ready to go with the low psi fuel pump (I didn't forget to switch it), and there is no power going to my fuel pump now.. When I took all the fuel injection stuff out I removed the fuel injection wiring, computer, etc.. from the driver side so I don't know if that is what's causing my fuel pump to not have power or not? If anyone knows of a way to fix this I'd greatly appreciate it.

I want to thank you all very much I have just solved the issue with the fuel pump the right way! I followed your instructions and got everything hooked up right. Now my fuel pump doesn't seem to be doing the best so I'm gonna try to clean it out again or just have to get a new one..

Thank you. It has been a long year for sure. I would not recommend getting a complete rust bucket like I did ha but at the same time it makes you feel very accomplished.

There is a chance that I will be working a shift in atlanta on the 25th but I don't have any info on that just yet. Let's go ahead and shoot for that date and I'll keep you posted once I know more. I appreciate you helping me out here.