240zadmire

I’m more inclined to do the brazing. But who knows, some one on this forum might have a very good result with sealing too. I need to do more research, by research, I mean watch more YouTube, to learn how to braze. Of course it will be off the car or at lease zero pressure before I do it.

This is how I fixed mine.

Well, it was good for couple of months. Found 2 other leaks. One is on the back side of the compressor. This will need a big o-ring and disassemble the compressor to fix. The other is at the condenser. Must have been a giant bee with a steel stinger that poked a hole. have anyone try the Red Angel A/C seal? What about using MAP gas to blaze the leak at the condenser? regards

Isn’t the Teflon tape insulate the sending unit’s ground connection?

it's 1/8 BSPT threading.

When all other suggestions checked out and issue still exist, and if $20 is affordable, I would rebalance them again. Mine tires were couple of thousand miles. I swapped the tires to the mag wheels. Balanced at the same shop and immediately exhibited the vibration. Rotated the tires didn’t help. Took to Costco to rebalance again as it was the cheapest option instead of getting new set of tires or drive shaft… fortunately it cured the vibration. Hope you’re lucky too

In my case, the tires weren’t balanced proper. Took to Costco to rebalanced solved the problem. Might want to try that if you have Costco membership. $20 for 4 tires.

The voltage and especially the fuel gauge. I want the fuel gauge always to be on the right side 😉

I think I looked at this the wrong way. Before the radiator flushed, buildup, calcium… prevent the heat from dissipate proper. Hence, in turn not able to heat up the bimetal in the clutch fan that allowed it to engage as frequent as it is now. today is heat record at my area. Triple digits, 112 degrees at 10am time frame and I was driving for an hour on freeway. The temperature gauge’s needle just a hair pass the F letter. I think the engine is still within optimal operation. The clutch fan engaged constantly. AC was on the whole time and I experienced no lost of power. It looked a little bit hot but I think it is ok. Just annoyed the clutch fan is loud. Hope the other drivers with obnoxious straight pipe still able to hear their own engine’s backfired 🙂

very nice. Does the surface flat or has the contour like the original headlight? do you have a side image to show it?

It is used. I bought the Tokico rebuild kit. Apparently, a close examine the Tokico and the Nabco, the Nabco is a bout 1mm shorter on both piston. I think the Tokico pistons block the holes. That's why no fluid gotten into the bore. ahh well, probably a remanufactured one probably a better route.

Alright folk i changed direction a bit about mechanical gauge…. I bought another oil pressure sender instead. This sender is a bit less resistance I think. 75ohms at 0 PSI. The fitting is NPT instead of BPST, hence another adapter. At cold start, oil gauge is very close to middle and when engine warms up, gauge points about middle. I guess due to the less resistance, that’s why the gauge display as such. But for sure having the gauge actually display something gives a bit a peace of mind. another successful day is I finally pay attention to the AC vacuum. I didn’t adjust it correct. At idle, when AC is engaged, there’s a vacuum at the throttle body to increase RPM a bit to keep the engine healthy. last couple of weeks, with you guys help, I’ve able to solve the flasher blown fuse, no heat at fuses box, voltage regulator look healthy. the next challenge is the fan clutch keep engaged too frequent.

Found the tire size and type http://zhome.com/BRETotal/Tires/BajaTires.htm

Folks! I’m in the process of evaluating whether to upgrade the 15/16” master cylinder with the 10” boost master from 280zx 1979. I tried to bench bleed the master cylinder and observed the below behavior. notice, I didn’t mount the reservoirs on yet. fill up the cups and it’s very slowly draw in the fluid into the bore and out the F and R outlets. I tried to tap on the side to see any bubble coming out. Very little. I even try to pump the cylinder and seem like just air coming out. Fill up the cups and left overnight, the F seem to be able to drain completely. do I need to mount the reservoirs to help with the gravity to pull in more fluid?

Does anyone know what type of tires these are? The size and whether it’s street friendly? They’re looking like they can sink a claw into the asphalt