240zadmire

I’m in Southern California. I can understand there are metal that can withstand certain temperature, but whether you drive in snow or Sahara, the engine still hot the same nevertheless. Well at least inside the combustion chamber. I don’t know what I am talking about, obviously ?

That’s so sad. At the minimum I need windshield, rear hatch and whatever the rear hatch needs. Doors, quarters are all brittle and cracked. the only rubber on my car that can be salvage are the 2 underneath the doors. Still flexible and seal nicely. Everything else is trash. So disappointing to know that there are kits out there and don’t fit nicely. Isn’t the body from 70-78 marginally identical. There has to be a way... when you mention Kia Sportage, that is for the doors seal. Do you know what year/model of the Kia? much appreciated .

Thanks everyone to share the advice/wisdom. If it runs, let it runs like an energizer bunny. On and on. let's see any other issue popup. regards

no body have every buy a kit before? is it a bad idea? sourcing one piece at a time? though there are various vendors, but seem to all come from the same source. any advice? regards

Thought to share the fuel light on when fuel is near empty. It works beautifully. I’ve been chasing the running rich/powder/sooty on first 3 cylinder and kept an eye on th fuel light to see if it works inside the fuel tank. As the gauge dropped a bit to the left of near empty, light gradually brighten. So cool. Rushed to gas station to get another 2 gallons and fuel light is off. So nice when things work the way you expected. Wonder how many gallons/mileages when the light is on? reminded me of a scene of Kramer and Jerry in one of the episodes where they test drive a car. It keeps running and running for hours even though the warning light is on. ? Only if it was true in real life !!

ok, a cool breeze tonight... not complaining as other are much less fortunate such as north California that is burning days already. May God send some rain and strengthen to those firefighters. i did 2 experienced with Iridium and BPR5ES. Each ran idle and some rev here and there for 30 minutes. All engines fired as I pulled the plug individually and RPM dropped as expected. Retarded 10 degrees with idle approximately 850-900rpm. no more sooty/powder smog on any spark plug. Please see the pictures. I think it is still run a bit rich or just right. When I replaced my sedan, the plugs much drier and whiter if that describe it. But again, the plugs in my other sedan ran for 80k miles. Can’t compare to this. i think the BPR look cleaner than the Iridium. I sniffed smog on both set of plugs (Use all senses, stupid me but got to find a way ...) and definitely not as strong as before. Saw a clip on you tube howto adjust fuel/air ratio but need to drill a hole on the exhaust pipe to put the CO2... not a big fan but is there any other ways to guesstimate what is the right mixture? what do you guys think?

@dutchzcarguymentioned about BPR5ES... light went up in my head I do have a set. It came with the car. Talking about letting stuff go eh.... it look really new, to me. i don’t have the fancy tool like this one Use a sled hammer probably over kill, although at time it is really satisfy and justified ... so I used a clamp and a sockeat to do the job. gently turn the knob/handle and check the gauge. Do it couple of times and you’ll master it. I know it is not conventional and probably outright wrong. Got to do with what you have. still trying to fiddling the retarded, and the screw underneath the distributor. the by pass screw seem tampered as it is protruded way outside. Like flat to the body. Can’t be true as it is loose as well. Will take pictures both iridium and standard BPR stay tune

Indeed I screwed up the wire of injector #1. Fixed that and pulling any spark plug lower the rpm immediately. Lost 1/6 of al the horse power. ? Adjust the spark plugs gap to 0.039. Was about 0.045 or so. Will get the proper gap gauge tomorrow. Checked the resistance of each spark plug wire and approx 7k ohms. Well with in 30k ohms by FSM Checked the gap between rotor and stator to be spotted on of 0.08 Next would be adjust the air fuel ratio procedure .... fun fun fun. Sweat sweat and more sweat

Dump question, I believe I swapped #1 fuel injector connection. #37 goes to dropping resistor and #15 to ECU. Look like I screw up on #1 resistor because when the engine is running, pulling a spark plug on each engine, RPM lower immediately. #1 has no effect. I swap fuel injector from #2 to #1 to see if injector works and it does. regards

@Zed Head yes sir. I needed help about a wire goes nowhere from the condenser. I do have the ballad’s resistor. will open spark plugs soon. I’m pretty sure the gap is wider than suppose to. Don’t have the handy spark plug gauge. It always on the checkout counter.... I had one years back and kept thinking it’s in my tool box somewhere... as soon as I bought it, the one I had will magically appear. Always like that ? will use the valve gap lash instead stay tune regards

I never give a second thought of checking/adjusting the spark plugs gap. Installed it the way they are when I bought the spark plugs. I just ran the engine for half and hour and wait till it cool down a bit to open. Too hot in the garage ? the FSM says 0.39-0.43 gap should be good. The gap does look wide. learnt a new thing about fuel hanging around till its turn to get suck in and fire. I kept thinking the ECU controlled when each injector open up and how much fuel.... so for adjust to run a leaner without tampering/fiddling the AFM, there is a screw behind the AFM flapper. Is it enough/right place to add more air to trick the ECU running lean? regards

Hi all. Seem like the problem is gone with swapping the #3 and 4 Isn’t the firing sequence 1,5,3,6,2,4 #3,4 is opposite isn’t it? please see the photos with notes. before swapped the wires of 3,4 after swapped the wires. #1 look much better but number #2 still have smog powder on it. I did gave a Deoxit gold 5 bath to dropping resistors, voltage regulator, passenger seat relay, all the injectors when I trace issue with fuel pump.... Basically all connectors I can get my hand on. I will give all the injectors one more bath when the temperature is cool down a bit. I sweat like a pig or windows were down and drive through the car wash, in under 5 minutes. Having wearing glasses doesn’t help either. ? will update later. regards

Another thing I notice is the smog smell. Compare to my other sedan, the smog coming out of 280z is definitely noticeable. Stronger smell. Not that smell like unburn gas or oil, just stronger. The muffler and catalytic must have been decade old. Read somewhere it might need to drive on highway hard to knock down those deposits in the pipe... kinda egg, chicken problem. I need to pass smog before I can take it into high way. Cannot driving around 25 zone to 60-70mph ?

@Captain Obvious good suggestion. Let try the easiest path by swapping the spark wires. I’ve switch the spark plugs but problem persisted. I did heard little “knock” noise when start the car. Probably a second or 2. about the injectors, they all old. I clean, sprayed brake clean fluid while energize and all of them spray. I didn’t pay much attention if the spray streams were consistent. switch wires is ok, but pulling the injectors out is going to be painful.

I’d like to add is that the there is clear mpg coming of the pipe tail whether I start the car in the morning or when the engine is warm. Understanding that lately, California is like 80f in the morning. There is no back fire or anything Iike that. Am I looking for trouble? Or just be happy with it? im prepping her up for the smog in couple of weeks. Waiting for the weather strip to put windshield ... will have another thread about prepping before smog test. So exciting!

Hi all strange problem I encountered. the engine idle, rev fine. Look at the spark plugs, 1,2,3 run rich and 4,5,6 run lean. The spark plugs of 4,5,6 looked clean compare to dark smog 1,2,3. 1,2,3 engines look like this 4,5,6 whats I have done. compression test cold: 170psi on all engine hot after 30mins idle, 180 psi on all engine new piston rings new bearings new gaskets new vacuum hoses new spark plugs, cap, spark plugs wire. All NGK brand. new alternator new ignition coil. I’ve stripped down the engine nut by nut, bolt by bolt, suspensions, bushing.... except the transmission. Anything replaceable where cost is not prohibit. I replaced. the engine responsive but just notice 3 front engines are a bit rich. any advice, would greatly appreciated regards

Hi all So if I get this correct, the capacitance should/must remain the same but the voltage should be the same or higher is ok. Read articles online... some suggested the voltage can be double. Even though the voltage is higher than the current circuitry, the capacitor can only be charged up to its capacitance, not the volt?!! in other word, so long the circuitry that uses the capacitor doesn’t expect high voltage, then it’s ok? for example, A current is pass to capacitor 10uf 12v and connect to it is a resistor 10ohm 10v. if I were to change capacitor to 10uf and 24v or 50v, it should be ok because capacitor can only store its electron/capacitance up to 10uf i know it is trivial but I try to wrap my brain around this. thanks

@zclocks thank you sir. I also found a store close to a college I used to go to, MarVac electronics. Surprised and glad at the same time that they’re open. will do “road trip” for this treasure this weekend regards

Yes, I like the website. Easier to search than digikey.

Yeah, few cents a cap and $5 shipping. Ridiculous if you don’t buy bulk. Im in Southern California. Orange County. ill have to pay a visit to micro center and Frys. They have a very small section of electronic component an probably $1 a piece... there used to be a few electronics around my area. Doubt they still around. Will keep looking. funny thing, last weekend, diagnose home AC, (diagnose meaning google, YouTube) and try to find a local electronic store. Zero come up. Ended up ordered online and got it couple of days later. Pop in and bam, the fan swirling back to live. So relieve not spending a lot of money on motor, refrigerant .... bricks and mortar is hard to compete with online nowadays

@zclocks Still observing... Where is radio shack when i need it!?! i don’t think I’ll open up to clean the gears either, but then again, my evil curiosity might over take me.... so hard to control it. will source then other components. Will take some time shipping...

I noticed the circuitry can be adjust to center the magnetic. The nuts on both end of the pendulum can be adjust as well. The black towel for the pendulum tension/winding, I will not touch it just yet as I believe it is for the winding strength of the pendulum. another one is the “pressure” or “kick back” to prevent the pink tick gear from backing up. Will not touch that. will have to get to understand the mechanical more ... might end up adjust the black tower for the pendulum winding

just borrow the DC rectifier from a friend. Good to have friends with tools and willing to lend one! Yeah, hard work directly on the car battery as you've seen on multiple photos. it is pulling 10mAmp on mine too. I notice the pendulum wheel where it meets the pink gear to advance the second, need to be precisely align. Otherwise, it won't advance. Also, there is a lot of play both the pink gear and the pendulum shaft. I think it is design to be like that. The pink can play up/down on it own axis and the pendulum also play up/down on its own exis.

I changed one cap already. The one closest to the coil. The 0.22uf, can’t find in my spare parts. As the other one is electrolytic capacitors?!?! Keep in mind about my knowledge of electronic components.... please see the video. From face down, as soon as I plug the power in, the flywheel/pendulum swing right away. As I turn the clock slowly up right it stops.... there is something about the pendulum, magnetic and the pink strike wheel. I heard some other noise beside the ticking. will need to put myself in zen mode to filter other noise and just focus on the clock IMG_1634.MOV

You’re right. Then there’s must some thing else bar have too much “friction” to cause the pendulum not freely move. Will exam the patient closer. Need 2nd, 3rd .... opinion before operating on it. Quite daunting with the winding coil...