240zadmire

Hi all pulled the sending unit out of the tank. measure the length from the cap to end of the thermistor with a long stick as shown in the pictures. Mark the stick and dip it inside the tank to make sure when the sending unit installed, it needs to submerge under the gas and it did almost twice the length of the thermistor. That can be crossed off the todo list. dip the thermistor into a left over plastic cup of last weekend son’s birthday. I know, glass, metal or approved plastic... all I had at my disposal at the moment. dip it in the gas cup and see bubble rushing. Pour gas out of the thermistor and observe gas was pouring out vs dripping. Stir, not shake, just like Bond likes his martini, moderately not to spill gas outside of the cup. Observe stir motion had lot of bubbles and no dirt. Gas looked clean. Measure current temperature both gas in tank and in cup. Connect wires while the thermistor is outside. Light on. No surprise there. Submerge the thermistor to the gas cup. Light still on. Been tracing wire diagrams and it lead to many places like relay under passenger seat, cigarette lighter, floor temperature, voltage regulator, condenser at voltage regulator... clean all connections. Seem like we all agreed on the prognosis there is a problem somewhere but where exactly is the question. Reread @Dave WM twice didn’t see anything wrong. The third time caught my eyes “ Oh and make sure the light in the indicator is NOT an LED. The car was not designed for LED lights, so things like“ being anal as I am that I need uniformity... I replaced everywhere possible with LED as I like it a bit brighter. And being a hoarder like I am, keep junks until project is done many months or years before throw them away with great pain in the guts still. Dig through the used bin and pull out a bulb. Swap back. Light gradually brighter while the thermistor is outside. Submerge it to the gas cup and smoke is coming out of the thermistor. Scary my friend. We’re talking about highly flammable here. Light went off. Ladies and gentlemen, I haven’t had breakfast yet and the moment I see light went off, the feeling as if I just had an all you can eat and now is sipping a piña colada somewhere in the Caribbean ? I repeated the experience multiple times and works as expected. boy, what a fun chasing this problem. The old saying is truly applicable here. If it ain’t broke, leave it alone or something along that line. thank you everyone for the help and support. regards

Not sure if I understand you. You mean the sending unit does not have a ground properly? Connect chassis to the black wire ?

No light when key is ON 68 mV when connect any pin to chassis 0 when connect pin to each other

Ho @SteveJ black to yellow with blue stripe got about 1K ohm black to solid yellow got about 41 ohm yellow to yellow with blue stripe got about 1.1k see photos

Read in this forum that many suffer the ID10-T of the warning "FUEL" light not lid up. My is opposite. It always on even though the fuel gauge is half fuel. Mind you that I haven't drove the car to gas station to get a fill up as I haven't register/insurance yet. I made a few trip when convenience with a gas can of shy of 2 gallons. I must have done that at least 5 times. During my diagnose to fix other problems and driving around the neighborhood to test out brake, lights ... I put in 6 miles on the odometer. I trust the fuel gauge to be in working order and reports correctly. So give or take, at least 7-10 gallons still in the tank given the tank's capacity is about 17 gallons full. So the gauge says half full, the warning light is on. Pull the darn thing out but didn't know what to do with it. How do you diagnose, test to see if the "thermistor" is working/faulty? regards

Want to update the progress so we can close the issue. She rev up the RPM to 1500 right away without hesitation. Your theory of sticking AAR didn't open is indeed correct. Car keep thinking it has enough air but in reality it was suffocate when cold. I'm a happy camper ? one down, many more nuances to go. Thanks for all the help and this issue is closed. regards

That explained it. Issue solved. Moving on to the next one. Thanks @SteveJ

Greetings I don’t know if buzzer need to sound off when passenger door is open. Forgive my ignorance. when key is in ignition, open driver door, buzzer sound off. However, buzzer didn’t sound off when passenger door is open. I set the dome light to be on if the doors open. Dome light is on when driver or passenger door is open. wonder if it by design or some loose wires regards

Hello pull it off, put in freezer for few minutes, it opened up wide. Blow air with virtually nonresistance. Figure at least mechanically still good. Use half bottle of brake cleaner. Carb cleaner probably better/quicker but all I got at the moment. broke off the hard silicone on the adjusting screw. Feel the movement as unscrewing it. Got to be able to adjust it. Gently put a flat screw driver to the open area to see if the blade can be move and it does. Move it a little to the side. Tighten up. Blow air. Air blown by freely. Energize direct to 12 volt battery. A couple of minutes later. Blow air to it and with great resistance. Left on the floor with ambient temperature for 20 minutes or so. Blow air to it with ease. Hook it up with high expectation rpm should be high immediately and it did. She climbs to 1500rpm with high fan for about 1 minute. Fan lower to same engine noise and engine runS still high 1500rpm for a minute or 2 and gradually lowering the rpm to 950 or 950. I’m stoke! She idle beautifully. ill let her test for rest of the night and she’s should behave nicely tomorrow morning. this is a fun journey. I have other quirky nuances here and there and will post up soon thank you all for the help and guidance! below are the photos close and open. Though slightly but behind the door, the bimetallic probably do some awesome magic in there

How wide open does the AAR need to be at room temperature? Does it needs to be able to see through the holes? Not necessary the whole hole but a crack open that can shire light through? regards

You painted a very vivid picture. I can related somewhat. I had my car die on street couple of time not because flooded and cranked till out of battery. It die because of run out of gas and aware of it. I tried to drive as fast as I can to the destination I wanted to go... either to school or back home and Good Samaritan would help push into some parking lot. Go about my business if school was the destination and borrow literally a dollar or 2 as gas was like 87 cents a gallon. Walk back to the car with a can of gas and keep on driving. There was no cellphone and beeper was just a hot thing. Who can afford those anyway. Best days, I tell you best days of my early adult life. regards

2 questions - AAR cannot be rebuild. Only new if available or good used one - if I bypass the AAR and connect the hose where my finger is pointing to, to the location where AAR is currently hooked up, I should have high idle no matter if engine is cold or hot? regards

@Zed Head don’t know what you call it but the hose connected to the AAR that I pulled out to blow air in before cold start did have some resistant but can still blow air.

hi @Zed Head I pulled out the main vacuum hose and mouth blow air in. There is some resistant feel like you're wearing a mask but you can still blow it. I pulled the CSV and wrapped it in a plastic zip bag, one hand block the air passage where the CSV needle is installed, crank the car and see that CSV did squirt fuel to the plastic bag. It squirted about a tea spoon of fuel. Put back everything and crank the car up. RPM start around 500 and slowly increase to 1100 or 1200 RPM until engine is warm. Let her run for good 10 minutes and shut her down. Pull the main vacuum to the AAR, and try to blow, cannot blow it. I suppose it is working as I understand the AAR is energize and/or heat from the manifold change the bi-metal to close the valve. I repeat the same steps of pulling the CSV to see if gas is quirt out when engine is hot and it is confirm my understanding the CSV only operate at cold temperature. Seem like the engine starve for air when start from cold. Could that be AFM sensor? FWI, I had another AAR that is faulty. Even if i heat it up using the heat gun, I can still blow air easily either direction. When the engine is hot, she idle beautifully.

Hi all - did a terminals cleanup per this site - replaces the last remaining connectors of AAR and CSV. - connect the offend condenser wire to distributor body the only connector not replace is the 7 pins to the AFM. It looked pretty “polish”. I’ll keep it as is. No need to replace. A cleanup if need be. fire her up from cold. RPM a bit low. Around 500 then slowly climb up to 1100rpm in probably 5 seconds without any assistant. Probably 45 seconds to a minute, rpm lowering down to about 900-1000rpm. Retarded is set to about 5 degrees or so. Pulley is smooth like baby butt. I had rotate cam to top dead center and paint mark it from an angle. Probably not straight to the gauge. please hear the sound. Is the high pitch, tsk tsk tsk are the injectors sound or is it lashing? regards 280z idle sound.m4a

@EuroDat thats an excellent photos and descriptive. Will definitely try out tonight after work. thanks a lot. regards

@cgsheen1 Please see if you can find the wire connect to anywhere. Also, can you confirm if it has the Anti-stall Dashpot? the Dashpot suppose to mount on top of the Throttle body and at the end of the accelerator link. Mine doesn't have it. Read on other forums seem like no effect to remove it. regards

The speedometer is definitely better. I only pull the wire, clean, lubed and put back again. The gear is hard to get out and it is hot today at my place ?. It still jumping/dancing from 0-20 mph like it needs momentum. Once it passes 20, it is much smoother but still jerking/ bouncing. One of these day when it cool down, will take out the gear, speedometer set and do another thorough clean up. regards

Yes, I saw a few and don’t know what they do... one on alternator, one from ignition coil... few some other area. I have FSM. It is maze. I’m ready it a lot but probably about 5-10% sink in.

I’ll go with your suggestion to make a spade on the distributor. Does it matter where to mount or? Either on one of the 2 bolts to mount the body or that screw on the picture. ?!

@cgsheen1 youre right. I looked back my archived photos and it wasn’t connected to that Resistor terminal. For the live of me, I cannot remember where it should goes. Base in your logic, it can connect to engine or chassis? regards

It’s a speedometer. It is not smooth. Jumping as I accelerate. I figure it need lubricate but fear of the rubber gear broken. Will exam and lubricate stay tune regards

It’s an early ‘77 280Z. A California car. look at the diagram and the coil’s resistor, it needs to go to one one the 2 pins already occupied? regards

Greetings so I finally roll off the car from the “assembly” line. It’s definitely feel “different” than a modern sedan. I’ll save this for other discussion. what I notice is that the speedometer is “bouncing” or “jumping” as I accelerate. I don’t think this is normal. Searched and seem like some suggest to put a resistor about 10k ohm at the coil ignition. Not sure if that is the good idea. Which bring to another question. Seem like there is an extra capacitor around the coil ignition. I cannot seem to be able to find another plug to connect to this. Please see the photo. much appreciate regards

Hi all, when I took the harness out, I don’t remember remove any connector if not necessary. I told myself this is a long term project. I want to leave things as intact as much as possible. Beside, the harness didn’t have to go to any holes like the passenger side where wires need to get into engine bay. I must have took it off but can’t remember why. in case anyone interest how the connectors orientation, take a look at the picture below. time to put rest of the lights in and hopefully by weekend, have her around the block. So eager. order of executions - registration - insurance - break the car in for few hundreds miles - readjust valve clearance - looking for ac drier/receiver and r134 conversion terminals like to keep as much original as possible. Replaced worn out parts and rebuild when parts “unobtainium” or cost prohibit ? then enjoy fruit of labor ? Then smog check at some point.. ughhhhh ;( we can mark this thread as solved Lookout, there will be a post about AC coming shortly much appreciate everyone.