240zadmire

The car was running. The second photo I rev up the engine while trying to take a photo. As you can see I had to put the voltmeter on the fuel rail and my right thumb on the throttle linkage on the second photo, on the right. while waiting for the goodies to arrive…. I need a little bit help locate the condenser as highlighted in the photo below. Look like the temp, oil pressure… all connected to this condenser. It also connected to cooling fan motor sub-harness. What and where is that? There’s only 2 fans I know off, radiator fan and the heater/ac motor fan.

Yep, glad you noticed. My car is getting younger. It found the youth fountain! Hopefully I can claim the car has been garage kept over the last 45 years. Only driven few miles. Like this one. https://350mile280z.com/ hahahahaha

I went through about 10 fuses for the flasher to get it "working". It probably coincident, but who knows. After 3 cleanup of the multi-switch and thoroughly clean/sand the AC connector air blower, replace the flasher and it's been working almost a week. I've been driving it daily. Cross my fingers! AND there is no more heat at the fuses box anymore. The fuses in the fuse box have similar cool temperature. The fusible link still warm. Probably there are other connectors that need deep cleaning of the greenish stuff. If you haven't replace the flasher, I highly recommend to get the flasher above. You can hear the peaceful ticking in the video below. Don't pay attention to the oil gauge. It will be addressed soon, I hope. Rest assure the oil is splashing on the camshaft lobes. flasher.mp4

hahaha, I just learned how to update the signature. Your comment still relevant and helpful, nevertheless.

Those are really nice goodies! Thank you! Got some of them. Will get the rest to pimp up my ride 🙂 The clutch fan brand is Aisin. Not sure where it made. At cold or warm up, spin by hand moves couple of inches. Don’t mind replacing it. the volt gauge might not display correct?!. I measured at idle and rev up at the battery terminal and the voltage is less than 13v. This is when all lights were on.

I took the radiator to the shop and put back afterward. It was relatively easy by removed the radiator shroud and able to pull the radiator off. The fan was intact during the whole operation. the fan clutch, thermostat, coolant temperature sensor are couple of thousands miles old. The clutch has resistant both at cold as well as when the engine was off from a long drive. My logic behind the coolant brand is that as the radiator fan draws the heat from the radiator, it heats up the clutch fan that allows the clutch fan to engage. If the coolant boiling point is too low/high, it might indirectly affect the clutch fan engage prematurely. when the clutch engaged, I’d say about less than 30 seconds then the clutch disengage. I don’t think the car is any hotter than before. In term of where the temperature needle was… when the clutch engaged, needle gradually went down to middle and the clutch disengaged. The needle never completely pass the letter F. It just one of those things I noticed that behave differently than it used to be. take a look at the photos below. This is at idle at red light after 15 minutes of driving in the morning. Around 8:10am. The outside temperature was in the low 70F. as I stepped on the gas pedal from the red light, the clutch fan engaged, around 3rd gear, then disengaged after couple of seconds.

The volt indicator needle used to dance at idle when the turn signal or hazard switch is on. After replaced the flasher and possibly coincident clean up the connector, the volt indicator needle still dance, but barely noticeable. This is probably a remedy instead of the cure. But I hope I'm lucky.

@Captain Obvious When the car cold start, the oil pressure is about 1/3 or even close to 1/2 on the gauge at idle. As the engine warms up, the oil pressure drops. And while on freeway cruising 70MPH, I get a constant 1/5 or so. I learn to live with it as at idle, I can see oil splashing on the camshaft when I open the oil cap. Who knows, it could be one of the connector also corroded and/or greenish. I did have brand new oil sender unit with single pin. The picture above I took when I was in 4th gear. Just get off of from a green light. The voltage meter sits right between 12 and 16 volt indicator. As I step on the accelerator pedal, it reaches close to 16 volts constantly. As for the fan clutch, I don't think it is malfunction. I've ran through the diagnose test such as spin the fan at cold and right after driving a car for a while and observe how it spin. All seem to indicate it is functioning as it should be. With my limited knowledge of how the clutch fan suppose to work ... seem that there is bimetal and/or as the oil in the clutch warms up, viscosity thins that allow the tiny balls or metal expands that allow the fan to run close to or at speed of the engine RPM. If my memory serve me right, cruising on the freeway, I never heard the clutch kick in. Granted lately the weather is a bit warmer, but the weather in the morning between 9-10 shouldn't change that much last couple of months. It could be coincident is that After flushing the radiator, I used the coolant made for modern Asian cars, Zerex blue color. I can't remember which brand I used before but it was green. The IR temperature I got from top of the radiator was about 170F on top and 140F on bottom. Close to the thermostat was about 180-190F. I think the engine temperature is within optimal operation but just annoying hearing the clutch kick in too early and often.

Greeting folks Not sure if this belong to Heat & AC or Engine & powertrain ... Here goes My radiator was serviced couple of months ago due to some minor leak at the top of the radiator. The shop need to open up the entire top cover of the radiator to do a fix... They recommended to flush, and remove all of the build up over the year. The fee for the job is about the same if I were to buy the new aluminum 3 rows radiator. However, I like the stock looking and it also 3 rows radiator, so I agree with the job. This is couple of months back before the summer. All seem to be working well. Recently, I notice the fan clutch engaged too frequent. My recollection is that usually, the fan clutch engaged at around the temperature needle pass the vertical "F" letter that start showing the vertical bar. Lately, the fan clutch engaged even before the temperature needle reaches the "F" letter. This is happening even when the engine just start warming up to operation temperature. Meaning when I start driving for about 10-15 minutes. Is the global warming start taking toll???? regards

I'm happy to report that the flasher's fuse hasn't blown yet. I'm not sure exactly where the culprit(s) were, but I did 2 things that might compliment one another that fixed my issue. 1. Clean the connector (6 wires connector) for the AC blower as it has greenish build up. 2. Replace the flasher as mentioned above -- the flasher might be on its way out that might cause the fuse to blow intermittently. Who knows 😉 Beside the flasher fuse stop blowing, the new flasher actually is very good. I'm able to hear the clicking sound without looking at the dash to know if the turn signal is engaged 😉 Let put this at issue at rest for now. Highly recommend the flasher above if you need some reaffirmed that the signal is engaged. Brand new issue is coming on new thread shortly 😉 Thank you everyone for a superb help. regards

I cleaned the pins more thorough and replaced the flasher with this one CEC Industries EF32RL Flasher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXLH7CG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share the flasher sound more noticeable 🙂 turn max air flow for heater, the ac fuse still warm but can be touch. The fuel gauge is much less heat, which is good. The fusible link is about 100F. turn on AC full blast and the AC and fuel gauge fuse is a tad warmer but still touchable. All other fuses similar room temperature and the good part is flasher fuse hasn’t blown yet. I’ll keep an eye on this for couple more days and see. at some point I probably upgrade the air blower to the Honda Civic or Kia Sportage ad many recommended. stay tuned folk.

Just because it's right in front of my face doesn't mean it's easier for me. 😉 Just want everyone to know that I appreciate all the input. I'm not sure why the fuse gauge is heating up. Doesn't look like the back plate share the same pins. I don't think anything is wrong with it either. Both AC and fuel gauge are still functioning. I'm more concern about the AC is so hot to the touch. I did turn on heater full blast. The AC's fuse does warm up but hot as much. I didn't get the chance to measure the fusible link temperature. Got distracted 😞 will try more later tomorrow. Stay tuned.

The AC is original except the drier replaced a year ago… by coincident while troubleshoot the flasher fuse blown, I touched all the fuses and notice AC and fuel gauge fuse sockets were the hottest. I don’t think that normal to be that hot to the touch. The AC and fuel gauge fuse sockets hot if AC is running. Fuel gauge fuse cool otherwise. my electrical knowledge is rudimental at best… I’m doing trial and error to narrow down the issue. So far signal fuse hasn’t blown, yet.

That’s the weird one. I ran the A/C for good 15 minutes, switching the blower level around and playing with the flasher left/right… no fuse blown. Not hot either. Only the AC and the fuel gauge are hottest. The AC clutch disengaged intermittently when I switch to max blower. it’s toying with me 🙂

The hottest one is 100% on the AC fuse following the fuel gauge. It quite hot to the touch. Another warm location is at the connector at blower. I might have to cut those wires and create a 6 spades/blades in place.

I didn’t carry the infrared thermometer with me at the time 😞 highly possible the culprit is at the connector under the blower toward the transmission tower. It corroded and have some greenish color to the pins. 2 of the pins too corroded I had to pull off and bypass. the infrared dot is hard to see in the photos. One of the fusible link is quite hot too.

Purely trials and errors ... Without turning A/C, drove the car to work. A good 45 minutes arrived at work. Check all the fuses by hand touch and they are as cool as cucumbers. While the car is in idle, turn on A/C for a couple of minutes, the fuel gauge and A/C fuses start warming up. There is something going on there. Time to spend some quality time with the wire diagram.

Car has been cooked the whole day under the sun. Switch on AC to max and tried the switch on the signal immediately… poof there goes the fuse. Touch the AC and fuel gauge fuse terminals and really hot to the touch. All other fuses are cold. What does that tell you?

The fuses box look cleaned to me. No obvious rust or corrosion that I can see. I tried to repeat the steps that cause the fuse blown last time and noticed some interesting behavior. when the engine first started, I turn on A/C to maximum airflow but the A/C’s compressor clutch disengaged at maximum. Turn signals were working fine though. Reduce the airflow one click and the A/C’s compressor clutch engaged again. Seem like every level of airflow, the clutch engaged just fine except the maximum. This is only happen when the engine first started. The different is the car was in garage. So the ambience temperature is much cooler vs when the fuse blown, the car has been cooked under the sun couple of hours already.

@dutchzcarguy apologies for rudimentary gramma mistakes. I understand it is irritating and sometime annoying to read such poor gramma. Worst, an incorrect place of apostrophe or comma, could have a different meaning altogether…. I will do a better job before submitting. There seems to be 2 flashers mounted under the pedals box. One is longer, bigger and I think it’s dead. The previous owner didn’t pull it off. The working one is smaller but is making a really low sound when turn signals or hazard switch is engaged. I believe I read on some other threads that it is normal, though it would be better if the sound is louder. However, that is for some other day. Yeah, the intermittent blown fuse is frustrating, indeed. My recollection is that it’s blown during the hot days. I like @Zed Headtheory. I’ll follow that path to see where it leads. stay tuned and stay indoor with A/C or shaded area. It’s sizzling in the south land!

I cleaned the multi-switch 3 times. Perhaps the 4th time will do the trick? 😉

you're on to something! I think the fuse blown during the hot days, lunch time frame. I'm not kidding. The tiny cabin with black interior IS really hot when during lunch time. This is really interesting to know the hot weather and the current rush in cause this phenomenon. Will have to unscrew the fuse block/box later.

Arggg spoke too early…. Took the car out for lunch. Switch on AC, engage left turn signal, and poof, fuse blown again. Wonder if something short in the AC electrical path/switching lever…

Took all bulbs, clean and examine each socket ... nothing ordinary that I can see. No fog or hazy. No warm feel at the fuses box. Been driving couple of weeks and put couple of 100 miles on it. it is not blowing anymore. One thing I didn't mentioned was that I do not have radio currently install. There are some wires with copper exposure that I didn't tape it cleanly. Possibility could be one of those wire touched the metal that cause a short. I've cut and electrical tape those wire cleanly. Hopefully that was the reason.

When I took the driving test, the proctor asked how to use hand signal to turn left, right... that was 100 years ago. I've been using hand signals lately. Hopefully other drivers don't get offended and mistaken that I gave them the middle finger, especially turning right 😉 I bet gen XYZ don't even understand what is the meaning of roll down the windows let alone use hand signals. hahahahahaha It's the flasher 10A fuse for the left, right turn. You pulling my legs!!!! glad you pay attention to the details.