240zadmire

I would never know this. 🙂 I’ve been driving the car almost daily and every few days, I needed to replace the fuse. will check again tonight to see what wrong. stay tune. Live and learn new thing everyday 🙂

Greetings I’m scratching my head last couple of weeks and couldn’t figure it out. I have the wire schematic and trace all the wires pertaining the signal fuse keeps blowing up. I’ve clean the multi switch at the steering wheel, 3 times. Unplugged/plugged back connectors at the passenger side and near the fuse box couple of time already. The fuse seem to last for couple of days the blow up again. the hazard switch and light work. I just couldn’t figure where the short wire is that cause the signal fuse blowing off any suggesting where else to look? Thanks

What? You’re saying there are more than this to constitute a thorough R&D? my car is pretty “bone stock” except the recent “force” upgraded transmission to closed ratio, and I love it. The front brake thing is another upgrade. The Z sure fun to tinkering and improving things. My pain point right know is my shallow pocket. I don’t see myself upgrading the rear to disc anytime soon. Whenever I upgrade anything, I try to retain the original look as much as possible. I try to absorb the reading materials as much as possible before pulling the trigger … but until I actually do it… I always curious of what iffff . The upgraded calipers with stock MC and booster feel great so far. No spongy feeling. Brake pedal feels tight. One thing I notice is the ceramic pads get gripper as the rotor get hot.

Wow, the Porterfield commands some pretty pennies. I’ll have to look into this. Learn new thing everyday. Thanks gents

My setting is a drilled StopTech rotors with Wagner ceramic ThermoQuiet pads. Have good results with Wagner ceramic thermoQuiet pads that I'm using on all my cars/vans. the upgraded for the Z is definitely grabbing the rotors better than OEM. I'm wondering if upgrading from 7/8" to 15/16" caliper, either w/out the booster, help braking the car to stop, faster. The pedal feeling with this new calipers is marginally the same. I'm not racing, autocross or track at all. Just normal daily driving but every now and then, the need for speed kicks in that you're helplessly just follow with it 😉 I'd like to be able to brake as fast as I could should the unfortunate event should happen. regards

Greeting, this question probably asked hundreds of times …. Here goes one more. Upgraded the standard 2 calipers to 4 calipers Toyota 4Runner. The S-8 caliper. Not the larger one that need thicker, vented rotors. I figure, the 4Runner is much heavier than the Z, no need to get the biggest, baddest of all. definitely the new calipers have better grab to the rotors. the question are. - is it worth upgrading the booster and the master cylinder from 280ZX? - what about only the master cylinder and uses the existing booster? much appreciate. regards

It'll be a heck harder doing it under the car for sure. Seem like a major job that will involve piston rings, head gasket, seals .... since you're in the neighborhood. Might as well pull the engine and do one overhaul. One time and do it right the first time 😉 good luck!

Folks, with the current gas price seem to keep increase whenever I hit the gas station. This gave me a great motivation to take a look at the whole fuel hoses. I drop the tank and pay more attention to the hoses around the vent tank. I replace all the hoses, again. I have driven and emptied couple of tanks and noticed a nice swoosh sound when open the filler cap when the tank is close to empty. I believe that’s the negative vacuum the fuel pump created as it pump the fuel. I don’t smell a slightest fuel anymore. What confirmed to me is that I’m getting more mileage for a gallon. I used to get about 14-16 mpg and always thought that isn’t right. Just never occurred to me the fuel vapor could contributed to this low mileage. Always thought vacuum leak or running rich and never able to pin point to anything definitive. I was neglected this problem because gas prices was relatively cheap compare to today 😉 well, weather is getting hot everyday. AC is on most of the time and I’m getting 19-20mpg consistently for the last couple of fill ups. I read somewhere people able to get 28mpg. They must have tune the car to tip-top shape or always driving down hills 😉 anyway, I’m happy with the improvement and able to keep the environment a bit greener, especially my wallet is definitely greener. That’s important these days 😉. just thought that I’d share. I’m sure we all DIYers keep out toys tip-top shape cheers

this might be the solution for me, for now https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-service-valve-cap/p/dorman-a-c-service-valve-cap-902-025/825033_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:8062087320&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_oeZ9LfG-AIViT-tBh1ULAfREAQYAiABEgLcqvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I think I found the leak, hopefully the only place. It is actually the schrader valve on the low input. It leak so slow that I overlooked last time I did the soap test. Instead of soap water, I just fill the valve with water and patiently wait for more than 5 minutes with laser eye fixated on the valve. The leak is about one tiny bubble about the toothpick per 5 or so minutes. I recheck it every 5 minutes or so and there it was, another bubble. How do you go about fixing this with the refrigerant still full? I put a cap with the o-ring in it already and hopefully good enough for now. regards

will try your suggestion. California is getting sizzling. Not to the point of boiling eggs on the asphalt, but getting there.

Very nicely done. I won’t be able to do this as I don’t have a lathe 😞 perhaps next Father’s Day wish list and the wife agree 😉 as did my stock setup, I manage to just simply retro the r134a fittings. The condenser and compressor works for a year and last weekend was blowing hot air. Appeared all Freon escaped. Pull the vacuum for 40 minutes and seem like there isn’t a y leak anywhere. Put another 2 cans, (18oz or so) it’s running cool again. Did put some dye in and even stay soap every connectors. All seem good. If any leak, probably in the condenser under the dashboard. Pain in the behind

Though I’m not that old… but this generation is so confused! 🙂 well, nothing beat a morning cruise where there’s practically no traffic on freeway… and that’s a rare sight in Southern California. Did a 40 miles varying from 60-80mph and boy, so glad there’s no more unwanted massage vibrating feeling in the car. Was really smooth. Kudos to the Costco team. They really did a great job and I’ve never spent this little money at Costco with such pleasant. Go Costco! I think we can put this thread to rest. Thanks everyone for guidance and keep up my rants .

Not all shops or technicians created equal ! the shop that I bought the tires mounted, balanced and aligned the wheels/tires, were decent. At lease I was happy for a year until I took the new mag wheels to swapped out the tires and balanced on the new wheels. needless to say, same shop, different technician have different results. Reason I went for this same shop because Costco do not carry the tires size of the stock rims, 14”. I took the car to Costco for balance. The technician was cautious as he didn’t want to mess up the “classic” car as there’s no place to jack up the car. I had to convince him the location where he can put the lifters in. However, he still hesitated and the manager need to approve. Manager didn’t want it either and insist to lift the car at the frame rails… fortunately, I did reenforce the frame rails so I ageed. Low and behold, 90 minutes pass and it’s done. Drove the car home, though short distance and NO VIBRATION at all. I will have to do more driving tomorrow to confirm the result, but so far I'm happy with the result. stay tune folks

When I swapped the transmission, the car was on wood blocks and the head of the pressed 😉. Basically it was on high evenly with the wheels intact. I don’t think i bent anything, but who knows I might screw up somewhere. Granted I didn’t have a lot of miles on the new transmission with the old wheels, but I didn’t notice anything so vibrating like this. You can say I’m one of the guys noticing weird stuff. I’m very sensitive about/around my surrounding area. 😉. It’s a gift/curse some might say. last night I craw under the car again, trying to shake the driveshaft, check all bolts/nuts and they all seem sturdy. No play. What I notice is the transmission mount under the shifter is a bit “movable” I think it should be like that to compensate the engine vibrating. Unless the rubber is weak and about to give out, I think it’s should be like that. another thing I read that the trap for the differential might be too loose… mine is about 1/4” gap, so I tried hard to put a spare rubber hose between the differential nose and the strap to tighten it for added measure. 2 things I think might go the issues. 1. The wheel weren’t balance properly. 2. the driveshaft is on its way out 3. possibly the drums warped. I’ll will take the car for rebalancing once more time and see stay tune

Took your suggestions…. The run off from center tread is about 1/32nd uneven on all wheels. Rotate front/back, left/right still have vibration. I narrow down to the right rear wheel case the most vibration. one note, I didn’t replace the wheel bearings when I restore the car. I tried to shake the wheel by hand, kicking the tires and seem very sturdy. another note is that no vibration when accelerating. I’m able to accelerate to 90mph in the morning when traffic was really light and no vibration while accelerating. As soon as I put in neutral or decelerating, the vibration begins until below 70mph. I did check all nuts, halfshafts, drive shaft, all bushing, basically all bolt and nuts under the suspension and all are tight. What’s the deal?

Ah, will try that next.

Saw this clip and thought it’s really cool

Took the rear wheels off. Adjust the drum brakes a bit tighter. Wire brush the inside stubs where they meet the drums as well as the wheel where they meet the drums. Took for spins and still have that vibration around 80mph I also checked all nuts on the joints for play and everything are tight. the nuts I’m using look like below For sure the old turbine wheels, the the holes for the nuts are a hair tighter/smaller. what else can there be?

Greeting folks, I've put about 400 miles on the new re-built close-ratio transmission. Got to say I like close-ratio transmission, a lot; especially shifting gears from 1st,2nd,3rd. The feeling that the wide-ratio didn't give me was that the "continuity" pick up from one gear to the another as if it is one continuous gear. Love it. The tall 5th gear also lower RPM as well. RPM a little close to 3K when approaching 80 mph. This is definitely help saving gas mileage, more than ever in Southern California where regular is hovering $6/gallon. Ouch and burning 😉 No good deed goes unpunished, or whatever phrase is appropriate at for this ... 😉 Seem like I notice 2 new "issues". They probably related so I'll list them out. 1. Occasionally, and I mean occasionally I lost power. I don't mean the car lost power by lowering RPM. What I experienced was that the car was accelerating or while cruising and the transmission or the clutch looses traction. It feel as if I released the clutch too fast when shifting gear from 2-3-4. I hope I describe it correctly. Please keep in mind that the RPM was either increasing or constant cruising in certain gear. It happen every now and then. Not like I can reproduce the problem. 2. I recently couldn't pass on a good deal on the set of mag wheel. Look like the below. I swapped fairly new tires set. About maybe 4000 miles on it. The new wheel also balanced. I didn't align the wheels though. Just balanced the tires on the new wheels. What I notice was that at close to 80mph, the rear is vibrating a lot. I mean, I can feel my seat vibrating noticeably. The transmission shifter gears feel normal though. Read on forums seem to point to unbalance drive shaft. I'll check again if any nut/bolts of the half shafts loose ... btw, all u-joints are about 4000 miles old except the u-joint of the drive shaft are 40+ years old 😉 what do you think where is the culprit?

Interesting! Would the van idle shaking? I think even with other older cars, like Honda Accord v6 late 90s early 2000 release exhaust relatively less than the Z. just something I notice, that’s all

Greeting ladies and gents just an observation and hope to learn more. I notice my Honda Odyssey van 2014 with 3.5 litters engine release exhaust at tailpipe noticeable less “air” than my Z with 2.8 litters I exasperate a little bit is that the air output from Z’s tailpipe is like leaf blower and the air from odyssey’s like hair drier if you will. The Z’s tailpipe about 2” and odyssey about 2.5” or so What gives? Modern cars has better recirculate and recycle exhausts? regards

Each case is different, obviously…. If I were you, I would take it apart and buy the rebuild kit to replace all bearing and seals, especially this transmission hasn’t rebuild after 40 years. In my case, the rebuild cost less than $100 compare to toasted the whole transmission. Good luck.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-ac345?rrec=true even cheaper. Not sure if they're the same

When I troubleshoot my car, thought the air regulator was faulty and was able buy one off of Amazon for $89 I think. It was from Standard Motor Products #AC366. The electrical housing was a it align with the existing connector but electrical pins matched up. It worked but I later found a used one for cheaper and able to make use of it. I return it and now it is no longer available on Amazon 😞 This one looks very similar. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-ac369?rrec=true a bit cheaper but still.