240zadmire

The gear needle bearing race bushing between the wide and close ratio are different. The wide ratio is very easy to slide in/out. Perhaps 1/100th ID bigger. You'll need some authority and firm persuasion to get it out on the close ratio. I had to warm it up/down couple of times to get it out. If you have impact gun, it help tremendously. Beside that, everything else is relatively easy. I highly suggest you to rebuild yours. Had I rebuild mine when I did the engine, I think I would not have this main shaft needle blown up that toasted the main output shaft. When I changed the transmission oil last time, the oil was clean as there isn't any noticeable metal on the magnetic drain nut. But only couple of thousand miles, the blown needle bearing shaved off lot of metal on the main output shaft.

I’m so mad now. My head is on fire 🔥. Steam is coming out of my ears… hahaha never sir. I’m too focus on getting my car back to life. Don’t have cable nor any subscriptions to any sport channel. If I can help it, I rather play than watching other plays . hope your team won.

Folks, exhaust is in. I seal threaded the drain and filler bolts and fill the oil via the speedometer hole. I use the cheappo hand pump from harbor freight till the oil start creeping out the speedometer. Then I raise the engine up a bit to drain more oil out. The speedometer and filler holes are pretty close horizontal wise. fire up the car start immediately. Gosh I miss the clunker, old, noise sound. The transmission is so quiet. No more rattle noise took for a spin and it does feel smooth. Shifting gears are so nice. This is what driving car suppose to be. will do more drive test. Did I tell you I miss this old, manual, noisy car sound. The goddess, pleasant 3k+ internal combustion explosions per minute !!!

believe me, when you're motivated, you'll get thing done rather quickly. Beside, experts in this forum help me a lot. Cut down the time searching the net. The time it took the most actually waiting for parts, especially the left threaded main shaft nut. This is my first rebuild transmission. I used the tools I have at hand. Mostly Mineral Spirit, brake cleaner, wire brush and lots of old dirty T-Shirt. Putting back is surprising easy and fast with the mini torch to warm up the bearing. I did not do ultra sonic cleaning of the gears/synchros as I do not have the tools. Mineral Spirit works wonders on soften/breakdown the layers of old oil. Everything is at least 3 times heavier when you're under the car. I do not have the lift. And thanks God, first try I got it latch on. Thanks part to the transmission tunnel. It help keep the transmission from topple down side way. I recall when I install the differential. Though the back has more room and clearance. It took me at least 5 times to get it on. Will get the rest of the exhaust hardware install later. stay tune folks

Alright folks, everything is in. I’ll let the seal gasket dry overnight and will try to put mount to the car. The darn thing is heavy as a whole unit. Shifting is smooth and tight. The plastic shifter bushing is ordered and on its way.

Thanks, Will double check.

Yes. I lined it up to the gutter.

Silly me, I forgot the orientation of the reverse check sleep. I think the orientation should be up as picture below. Can someone confirm?!!!

i decided not to drill any hole. There is already channel in the bushing body to draw oil in. Put the bushing in the freezer for few hours. Heat the tail housing a bit and use the 19mm socket for removing Honda harmonic timing belt works beautifully.

Got the bushing. About 1/32nd shorter than the one removed from the transmission. Only one hole for oil gutter. I’m thinking of drilling one more to be similar to the one removed. the old one is actually tighter with the yoke/driveshaft than the new one. Any one uses the new one have any issue with oil leak? I guess I’ll drive the oil seal a bit harder as it more loose?

Well, gears and bearings are back. I don’t know if the process I used benefit/harm the bearing and the tight roller… I have a press but unfortunately the press head is used to raise the car at the moment 😉 so, I basically heat up the bearing a little bit hotter than the bare hand can touch. Went in smoothly, especially when holding the main shaft and cluster gears. So glad they go in so smoothly without having to tab it. The roller bushing, I heat a little bit hotter and went in like butter. I read somewhere to grease the bearings to give some lubrication when dry startup…

Well, it’s one of those thing…. Since it’s already out, 44 years old, let do it kinda thing. I guess I can hold it off until it breaks as it is not too hard to take off from the car. Some time you read too much worries you more. Heard story a broken driveshaft almost took a guy leg. Kinda hard to believe but who knows. It’s the internet you know

Thanks for the tips. Yes, o-rings and speedometer seal are from dealer, including the oil gutter and left hand nut. I was surprised they still carry the oil gutter. The oil gutter has open end pan. Perhaps I’ll bend it close to look like the one I pull it off. good progress. Waiting for the bushing and ready to put everything back.

Primed and painted

Today is a great(er) day. Parts are here except the tail housing bushing. Perhaps next week. I do have gas power , power washer but thought it would be too noisy to disturb the neighbors. It will probably be quicker but sure will leave stream of dark, oily water down the drain to the ocean. I do like to eat sushi every now and then 😉 the mineral spirit and wire brush clean up nicely. After the mineral spirit evaporated, leaves a thick layer of dirty oil…

That makes perfectly sense. Live and learn. Thanks gentlemen!

Look like some successful story!

Greetings folks I’m in the process of rebuilding the transmission and has the driveshaft out. The driveshaft’s U-joint are irreplaceable, base on this forum and many other sources online. However, some did suggest it can be done and I also saw some YouTube that people just hammer out the similar U-joint with the stakes in it. I wonder has anyone done this before and did it leave any major burr, marks of the stakes. I also read the alternative U-joint is made by company Rockford part number 430-10 if anyone has done this and has some photos, much appreciated regards

Did a search online. Look like this transmission was rebuild at least one time. Look like the below, aftermarket part. Mine original wide-ratio is cast iron instead of aluminum. Perhaps I’m going to use the cast iron instead. Feel more study but heavier . Don’t know if it make any different 😉

Greetings the rear down is reasonably painless except the roller for the fifth/reverse that the double needle bearing was running on. Boy, it was tough. Either you’re really strong or has a long lever to pull it out using the split bearing tool. All my might and it didn’t even make a sweat . Fortunately, I have an impact gun. Make it much easier. I forgot to take pictures as I was so happy it came out… 😉 all the gears and even bearing appear to be in good condition. No chips or abuse that I can see. Normal wear and tear is all. the photos below make me question. Is it normal? Also, apparently there’s clear silicone sealant around the seal. I guess it make it easier to put it in. What concern me is the hole where I point using the screw driver. I mean, the seal suppose to prevent the oil from coming out anyway. But why the hole there?

I heard that and a few other products. I have a gallon of Mineral Spirit somewhere in the garage. Let's try that first to see how it'll turn out

I'm thinking of painting the housing cases with this paint after clean up. https://www.autozone.com/paint-and-body/high-heat-paint/p/vht-flat-aluminum-flameproof-high-heat-paint-11oz/509743_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:10574827360&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_LGaseK09wIVgys4Ch1I6QNjEAQYASABEgLih_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds any suggestion?

Open onsite. The oil look horrible 😞 somebody tried to fix the leak by using clear silicone for batub, windows … Surprisingly the gears looked really good. Bought it and brought it home. This weekend will be greasy .

I saw that too. Same price… I’m picking the dirty, oiled one tomorrow as he gave some discount… I’m going to use that discount to buy rebuild kit and still have some left over for few cold beers and still cheaper than $1000. He got to make profit somehow as he had to pull it from a car, I’m cool with it. Hopefully the oiled is from engine rather than transmission. I hope I don’t make a big mistake

Yeah, to the point to hire a few guys standing outside of the wreckage yards to spot any Z(x) and buy it on spot. Called the yard, the gentleman said someone bought the whole car. What the heck, I thought the wreckage yards are the last place cars go to rest. Someone is resuscitate it I guess. Need to look up the dictionary definition for the wreckage yard …