240zadmire

Hi everyone, After followed all the tips, advices... Took the courage and brought the car for the pre smog test. Unfortunately the car did not pass. It failed on the too much CO. The technician commented the car run a bit rich and need to dial the air/fuel mixture a bit lower. as you noticed on other thread and in this thread as well I believe, the car run a bit rich. I don’t really know how to go about measure the air/fuel mixture after adjusting the air flow meter. please see the report and any advice you can give. as always, much appreciate all the help. regards

Thanks @Captain Obvious. That's encouraging! @Zed Head, don't freak me out 😉 Let me try to get the smog pretest going on and hopefully pass the smog test as well. I really want to enjoy it a little while. I'll keep an eye out for the short block and see if I can do a better "rebuild" next time. I'm a bit of worry freak myself if I know something is wrong ... though I'm not a perfectionist and I'll never be. At least in this mechanical/electrical areas. They are above my brain can comprehends. Like you say, I have other issues I need to attend to.... Say, what should I be looking out for the next rebuild? bearing clearance, piston wall ... regards,

@grannyknot yes, I torn down the entire car, engine, head ...etc and replaced all wear and tear parts. @Captain Obvious Thanks for the great explanation. I learnt something as always. @Zed Head you have a keen eye. I noticed it put didn’t pay much attention as I thought air still in the system as I just replaced the oil pump.... checked the oil dipstick and yes, very loose. Temporary solution was to wrap around with electronic tape... open valve and crank again and no more bubble. Thanks so I hooked up the mechanical gauge. Cold start, psi around 40ish. It drops down to 10ish PSI as the car warms up and idle. The PSI is very responsive as I rev up the engine and it could reach up to 60psi. If I rev up more, might go higher. I guess as you suggested, leave it alone as the gauge on the dash might not tells the whole thing. Btw, I have new oil sender unit as well. Both the old and new one behave the same way. The Video is 105mb and around 5 minutes long. IMG_2058.MP4

Old pump on the right and new pump on the left. As soon as I see the washer. I new I screwed up without open the old pump. experts, please confirm my theory so that anyone read this won’t make mistake as I did.

Hi all, I believe I screwed up, again. Nothing new to me I guess ? Been reading a lot of threads and I believe Tony D. and many people recommend to use turbo oil pump to get more volume ... apologies if I misquoted. @Zed Head and others in this thread, not that I don’t value your recommendations... I just feel a bit more volume won’t hurt... anyway, as @Zed Head predicted, took the old one apart and seem there are scores on the rotor top and the holder. However the rotor and holder seem to be pretty flat. My thinest gauge is 0.038mm and won’t slide through. The clearance of the outer rotor and holder is tight. Don’t have gauge for it... what I meant I screw up is that the spring pressure is already out of specs. On top of that, I replaced the washer that is thicker than the stock which make it even less pressure. Been reading a lot and folks suggest to put a thinner washer inside the bolt to make it more tight/higher pressure.... since I bought the new pump, might as well use it. After all pump is like our heart pumping blood to other organs. Stock washer I screwed up and replace with this thicker one spring out of specs of 52.5mm it look like when cold start, pressure got to around 45-50 psi. At idle is roughly 10psi. When the car warm up a big, rev to 2k rpm seem to get pressure to 30psi or so. I did not see this with my older pump. I’ll hook up the mechanical gauge tomorrow to see how high it gets. I’m pretty sure psi would be more higher and more responsive. I reduce the movie quality and it’s about 60mb for 3 minutes or so. Stay tune. I think I’m at ease a bit and ready for the pre smog IMG_2010.MP4

@Zed Head thanks for the pointers ! The darn app to convert mov to mp4 didn’t work I guess. All the bearings clearance I did check and they are new as well. I did not check the clearance of the oil pump when I dismantled, clean.., replace the gasket of the oil pump itself and the gasket when mating to the engine. I didn’t check the oil spring length.... it’s one of those thing “I’ll get to it later” and later is now ?. Sucks but will pull it off and see what’s the problem. Hopefully still within specs and only need few more $ for the gasket and we’re good! But most likely a new pump seem to be in order!

@grannyknot you mean I just wasted a new $0.50 oil pump gasket?!?! ? Folks here seem to incline a turbo oil pump from 280zx of 1982-1983. I don’t think any definitive of auto or manual trans turbo oil pump. What’s the recommendation? Get an oil pump from a auto trans or a manual? regards

While waiting for the DMV permission slip to take the car for smog... bought the mechanical oil pressure gauge because my oil pressure gauge on the dash doesn’t seem to response. At cold start, maybe 1/8” from zero and as the car warm up, the needle almost point to zero. - new single pin sender or the old one behaves the same. - oil weight is 10w-40 Lucas high zinc - oil filter is K&N hook up the mechanical gauge and at cold start, around 25PSI and as the car warms up and idle, around 8PSI. Rev up the engine seem to be very responsive. I guess there is something wrong with the gauge on the dash? Perhaps a resistor need to replace? But resistor don’t fail that often. Any thoughts? Am I too annoying? Just forget it ? regards FullSizeRender.mov

I used the same brand name as well. isn’t that there is a phosphorous layer to protect the metal? Sanding or wire brushing might defeat the purpose. I use the aircraft stripper to remove the paint and I left bare metal for 2 years without any surface rust. Of course it’s Southern California weather. I parked in garage with bedding sheet on.

Merely share my experience.... send your family to relative if you’ve kids. Heck, send the whole neighbor away ? read instructions, set timer of each layer you put on. Absolutely take your time on the painting. The primer and base coat laid down beautifully. Poorly planned and executed on the metallic coat ; ahhhhhhh still hurt till today. I’m not blaming my kids for my distraction... that’s what I would do next time.

Look like you've dismantled the car completely. I hope you bags, tags and take load of photos. I just went through the same process you did. I bought the car July 2017 and start dismantled it sometime November. The budget was few thousands ... yeah right. I stop counting the receipts and even fear of looking at the bank statement after a short while ? . The time frame was set for 3 years as I have young kids and can only work on 95% night time and some weekends/holidays. first 2 years primary hunting for parts and tools and do body work. Everything else was grease elbow, just like you. I consider myself extremely lucky thanks to this forum that help me bring back the car alive (still hasn't done the smog test yet) even did the paint job, not great ... will need to repaint at some point. fast forward 3 years later, minute the smog, I came out on time. But definitely budget is just a number as you've read other response. btw, I kept my car as stock as it can be. Matter of fact, no exotic hot cam, over bore ... that's for the professional. I just want a fun, derivable car and possibly a daily, if possible. Keep your head clear and focus! good luck and keep at it. You'll get it done.

might want to remove the ID plate on the side and keep it in a safe place. Don't want to accidentally grind over it or paint strip the lettering. ?

keep hearing oil companies will stop pumping crude oil "very" soon. and all cars on street will be electrical in 202x. Gas stations will be converted into charging stations.... might want to enjoy your rides now before all the gas is gone. Heard tragic stories about folks going into retirement and drop dead months, or few years later. All your savings will be a great charity to somebody (hopefully your kids) so enjoy while your legs still work, and still feel the urges! As for me, I'll drive my Z every chance I will get. That's the plan anyway. Haven't got a chance to take her to pre-test for smog yet. Have young kids, so takes priorities! Not that I ill-wish you or anything like that. Please don't take this as an insult. regards

@siteunseen thanks for the prompt responded. So you have other Z(s) you're driving? What's the reason for not driving the Z more regularly, if I may ask?

Greeting forum members recommend fuel for our car is 87 octane as fuel today is much more advanced than it was designed years back. User manual stated otherwise that at least 91 octane. what do you guy use on stock engine? much appreciated

Greeting my 5 speed manual transmission has 3 sensors. They all leaked at the sensors’ electrical pins and plastic housing. I’ve replaced the reverse sensor to fix the annoying oil leak. Question is that the other 2 sensors don’t seem to do anything nor any electrical connect to it. These 2 sensors located toward the drive shaft. What would you do? Can I just put bolts to that 2 sensors to stop the leak? Any advert side affect to it? much appreciated regards

read somewhere people prefer paper gasket but for the manifold to the head. Some say soak into water half an hour or so to soften so it will mate nicely to the cylinder head. as for my problem, yes. Hammer, dolly and a torch did make the flange straighten better. Of course oxy-acetylene would be nice. down the road, I will need to replace from the catalytic and new muffler. Also, read somewhere that I cannot touch exhaust manifold and the down pipe to the catalytic. Something with the smog rules in California. This makes me worries. I probably understand the exhaust manifold being stock as it keep helping the heat and recirculate the unburned gas. But what if the down pipe to to catalytic is too rush, were doom? regards

I have a little exhaust leak right at the connector from the end of the catalytic toward the muffler. Boy, it took me couple of days to find it. It’s embarrassed, I know. Then old one were paper like instead of the new ones I installed. The new ones are fel pro and feel like aluminum/metal. I notice the flange is not flat anymore. Perhaps due to heat/cold it deformed. what is your recommendation? Paper or metal exhaust gasket? new ones look look like this.

@dutchzcarguy no press release. There are other people put a lot of time and money into their paint jobs... let them shine. ? has anyone able to source the window outer chrome? I’m looking particularly the outside piece that stapled to the chrome. My search seem to keep referring to the fuzzy piece that is from the inner window rather than outer.

@SoCalJimhaha haha, either enlarge or use radiator hose ??

The battery has been bother me a while as it is freely moving around when turning... poor man’s billet battery tie down. Should help the visual smog check material: - 1 1/8” width x 1/8” thickness and aprox 10” length. My battery width is 7” - grinder with cut through blade - sanding disc for grind the sharp edges - old battery rod with end screw and hook - some left over aerosol paint can - a gallon of sweat Be sure to bend the middle a bit upward to create a “spring” to help tie down without too much force at one end

From the schematic diagram, seem like the oil sending unit is connect/relate to the temperature gauge. Btw, the old oil sending unit and the current new installed behave the same thing. Might be a connector corroded somewhere !?!?? read that it should be some where in the 35-40psi on normal cruising. I might need to get a heavy weight oil, say 10w40 instead of Quaker 10w30 regards

At rest, the oil pressure needle is about 1/8” left of zero. Cold start, it move up about 1/8” or so and keep it dead zero on idle when engine is warm. If I rev up to 2-3000rpm, then the needle move to shy of 1/8”. It’s kind of misleading on the gauge to have 90psi but I don’t think it’s every get more than 10psi. Will check FSM again. But I worried before as well but I do see oil sling around. from what I read, our car love cheap oil. Music to my ears! What I had in right now is the quake from Home Depot and running 87 octane. What your recommend oil for our car? regards

Hi all, I did 2 major things. 1- readjust the AAR to the best I could. I think there still a little air can sip in via the adjustment screw. Need to find a silicone, glue or something to cover the screw back to where it was before I broke loose the hard glue... 2- took the throttle body out and did an experience as it bothers the adjustment screw should not crewed in all the way.... what I did for #2. Of course with a proper tools such as vacuum would be much easier... I did disassemble the butterfly/flapper to clean the gunk and inside the chamber. When I reassemble, it might be a hair misalign. What I did was to pour couple of tea spoon of rubbing alcohol from the intake end and notice the rubbing alcohol sip through. It sip through very slow, but nevertheless. Eyes and even flashlight won’t see the gap. Either use a vacuum or liquid to make sure. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the flapper/butterfly and trial and error couple of times. It is not 100% air water proof but much meter. Little moist able to get through but very very slow. assemble back at was too late to wake the neighbor up. fire her this morning and I can see that now I can adjust the RPM to 800. You might not see the 10 degree retarded but it is. The rpm is spot on 800. Another good part is that the air adjustment screw on the throttle body still have a few turn before it all screw in. I will need to tidy a few wire, check and recheck a few more times before I can bring her to pretest. Take a look at the video. There is a high pitch while idling. Possibly lashing noise, retainer of the valve arms, or just the fuel injectors noise. I can’t tell the different. it is a great progress thanks to all the suggestions IMG_1850.MOV

Great suggestion about brake booster... will check late tonight. Garage is 100+ right now and governor asking resident not to use AC this weekend as the heat wave is sweeping the south land. Will pack the family into a minivan and use it AC instead till 10pm tonight. Figure smaller footprint should help minimize stress on the power grid ??