Racer X
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Everything posted by Racer X
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You may also want to change the oil. When mechanical fuel pump diaphragms fail the fuel can get passed the broken diaphragm and go into the crankcase.
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I considered the Ford inertia switch, but never implemented it. Good idea though, especially if running fuel injection, given the higher pressure and flow rate.
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I use an oil pressure switch to operate a relay on the race Z. If the engine is shut off, the fuel pumps stop. The fuel pumps get power when the key is in the cranking position, then continue running once the engine fires up and oil pressure is present.
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My race Z has not had a mechanical fuel pump since I bought it in 1989. That was the first thing to go way back when. The only trouble I have ever had was when one pump (the car has a fuel cell with two sumps and two pumps, not something needed for street driving) died during a race. The engine ran lean while cornering and detonation caused the crankshaft to break. So go for it Cliff. Ditch the mechanical pump and all the troubles they have.
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It is easier to use a spot-weld cutter than a drill. And the cutter doesn't leave a hole in both pieces, only the part on top. This makes welding the part back on easier.
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A custom stitched leather dashboard. And a Signal Stat turn signal switch used on medium and heavy trucks. They didn't even get the chrome one.
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Look! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-datsun-2000-roadster-44/ Right here in The Great Pacific Northwet.
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I agree with Granyknot. A Z even a mother would be ashamed of. If my dog was that ugly, I’d shave his butt and teach him to walk backwards. Cutting the roof off is tantamount to heresy. At least the dash doesn’t have any cracks, eh?
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Your wife or girlfriend can’t help?
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Do you get fluid when your helper presses the pedal and you crack the bleeder open?
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Sold at $68,000 even.
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I saw that the other day. I love a nice goon.
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Wonder if there will be a flurry of bids right at the end?
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Those are the same photo. The top one has been reversed, and whoever did it also corrected the “240Z” on the poorly applied stripes. Look at all the details in each photo. The wipers. The scenery, i. e. The trees and gravel. mirror image of the bottom.
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Some guys down in Georgia. I think one of them may be a member here.
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I never use power took on spark plugs, iron heads or aluminium. Always remove them with a spark plug socket and ratchet, install by hand and torque with a torque wrench. It isn't a good idea to remove them when the engine is hot, the threads may call and pull them out. I have had to repair threads on both iron and aluminium heads over the years, always after some back has used and tools on them.
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Thanks for the comment. Been using it as long as I can remember. It is important to take care in applying it to not get any on the electrode or insulator, a little bit goes a long way. Also need to be careful to not over tighten the plugs. Proper use of a torque wrench is important. A quick web search results in much debate about it. I see the plug manufacturers say they use a plating that precludes the need for anti seize. But plating can come off.
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For what its worth, I torque mine to 13 ft lbs, and use anti seize on the threads.
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Like Steve said, are the plugs properly torqued? Also, it looks like the head gasket is leaking. Have you checked the head bolts to be sure they are properly torqued?
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I saw that yesterday evening. Interesting how it was previously bought by a dealer in California, and now a Washington dealer has it for sale. They are passing it around like a hooker at a frat party. Also interesting to note it is a no reserve auction. The current seller must be confident the selling price will be above the prior sale.
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What valve specs y'all like for adjusting
Racer X replied to Jabronie's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
The cam should have come with a card showing the lobe profiles, lobe centerlines, lift, duration and recommend lash settings. If you didn’t get it with the car, see if you can get the cam manufacturer and cam type, then contact the manufacturer for the details. -
The fact is these cars are easy to steal. Even today’s cars with chipped keys, and electronic gimcracks and gewgaws are easily stolen. If a thief wants something, there isn’t much keeping him from taking it short of an armed guard. Locks are for honest people. Me? If I leave my Z anywhere that there is a concern for its security, I remove the coil wire and rotor. Of course that doesn’t stop a n’er do well from dragging it onto a trailer or flat deck wrecker and hauling it away.
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Energy Suspension calls their Hyperflex bushings polyurethane. That tells me that Hyperflex is a brand name for polyurethane bushings. So it would appear they are one and the same as other polyurethane bushings, simply given a name to distinguish them from the everyday polyurethane equivalent.
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I think some of the Z vendors sell hardware ‘kits’. Not sure if it is still possible, but I sourced everything at my local Nissan parts guy at the dealer. I’ve also picked up some nice high grade stainless hardware at a local fastener supply house. This option is more work, because you need all the dimensions and such, and the better quality hardware will cost more. Be sure to get the correct washers for the studs that share an intake ear with and exhaust ear on the manifolds. If using a header, get a good one with the thick flange.
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I disagree that the glass needs to be installed to facilitate adjustment of the hatch. I also feel that the original strut being connected is causing fitment issues, and should not be connected until the hatch is fitted properly. Also, like I mentioned, it is a good idea to eliminate the new hinges as a culprit in the fitment.
