Racer X

So, someone we know is selling his 510. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-510-6/ Looks very nice.

I feel that adding a strut to the right side will not correct the problem. This is because the problem isn’t where the hatch is while open, the problem is where it is when closed (or in the closed position since you don’t have the latch hardware installed yet). You didn’t answer my question about the quarter panels. I also would be interested to know, is this hatch original to the car? Did you replace or repair any of the structure around the hatch opening ? How about the panel that the latch attaches to above the taillight support structure? If this is the original hatch, and the opening hasn’t been changed in any way, then the only change has been the replacement of the hinges. So, if that is the case, swap the new hinges out for the original ones, including any shims that may have been in the stack up (you did document what was there when you took it apart, right?). Then see if you still have a fitment issue.

Just saw this and read through it. The first question that comes to mind is, why didn’t you check and adjust the panels, doors and hatch before you painted the car? Panel and door fitment should be done during the bodywork phase of a restoration. Now you have what looks like some serious mismatches. The hatch looks longer than the opening, hanging off the back of the car by a considerable margin. Did the quarter panels get replaced?

Maybe she is hanging out with her sisters, Anode, and Cathode.

Correct. ETI4K did, and I tried to multi quote you both but failed. Sorry, eh?

Rock Auto https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/peugeot,1981,505,2.3l+l4+diesel,1227350,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896

For what it is worth, when I put this setup on my racecar, no one produced a “kit” and spacers weren’t commercially available. I took measurements, made a drawing, and then had them made at a local machine shop.

Knowing the job, having the correct tools, and planning are the keys to a quick, hot valve check and adjustment. As for running them a bit tighter to get that little extra bit of lift and duration, one mustn’t get them too tight, or the valves won’t close fully with the engine at full operating temperature.

Silicone sealer has acetic acid in it (that vinegar smell when it is curing). Acetic acid is corrosive. I would caution against using it on bare metal as the resulting corrosion it causes would be just as bad as not using it. Before installing a rivnut I paint the bare metal. After installing the rivnut I go over it again to seal the area.

I've said it before, I can get the valves checked and adjusted in 15 to 20 minutes. So I always do them hot. Sure, when putting a fresh engine together, they need to be set cold, and the clearances need to be set accordingly. I also set them a bit tighter than the manual calls for. For racing it is a way to "cheat" a bit more lift and duration out of the cam profile.

I don’t know.

Are those calipers for solid rotors, or vented rotors? I think there are two versions, aren’t there? It doesn’t look like you have the brake pads in there.

Today I wept. I wept for thousands of souls I never knew. 20 years. WTC towers 1 and 2. Shanksville, Pennsylvania. The Pentagon. Take a moment today to remember those who perished. Never forget. Weep for them with me.

Hershey, Pennsylvania. I first read about it 30 or so years ago, and have wanted to go ever since.

I was watching this and just saw that it didn’t meet the reserve. Makes me wonder just how high the seller wants it to go.

Hey! My favorite beer!

That Z is a keeper, and great color. Nice Super Bee. A long time friend is a Mopar guy. 1972 Tradesman van, he dropped a 340 in it years ago. Suprises all the guys at the Mopar meets at dragstrips. He had a 67 Dart GTS 383 in high school, totalled it. He found a shell about 15 years ago that had been used as a gasser, fenderwells cut open for headers, and nothing but a rear axle. Moved it around his shop like a wheelbarrow. Took about 7 years and he gathered up everything. He is prett proud of it. A 68 Coronet 500. A 69 383 Road Runner. It runs and drives, but is scheduled for the same treatment as the Dart GTS. A 72 383 Barracuda, hasn't been driven in 25 or 30 years, awaiting a full restoration. A 67 Dart GT convertible. A friend was fixing it up for his wife, he got cancer and died, and his wife gave it to my buddy. He spent about 5 years finishing it.

You can put a tee in the block where the sender goes, screw the sender in one port, a mechanical gage in the other. The rule of thumb for oil pressure is 1lb for every 100rpm. So at idle if you have 10lbs you're good to go.

Eventually, yes. After one, or both, of two things happens. As a society we all get behind a collective effort at eradicating the virus. Or, it kills off all those who refuse to get vaccinated. And like I said, or both.

Finding good donor cars that aren’t also rusted in the cowl area will be hard to find. Most of that got cut away when the road racers were building true tube frame GT2 cars for SCCA racing. I bet most of it was discarded. Some of the inner structure can be hand fabricated. Looks like the firewall is rusty too. Isn’t someone reproducing the firewall panels?

Except that being vaccinated only protects the individual vaccinated from the bug. They can still become a carrier and spread it to the unvaccinated. The only way to eradicate a pest is to destroy it completely. The only way to destroy it completely is to eliminate any viable hosts. Vaccinating any and all viable hosts is the only way.

The nice thing about living together with my woman, as opposed to getting married is that she has her income, and I have mine. We cover our joint expenses together, then do as we wish with what is leftover. We agreed 25 years ago when we entered into this partnership that we would do it this way, because the number one thing couples fight over is money. It must be working, as it has been 25 years and we have never argued about money or expenses. Other things that we have disagreed about have always been trivial, and we wonder if the choice we have made about our financial situation has something to do with it.

I’ve been watching the development of this head since the guy first started posting about it on Hybrid Z. Fascinating, and something I would have if I won the lottery or inherited a huge sum of money. But, *sigh*, I am but an average guy with an upper middle class income. Things like this are only a dream.

Like the guy who ported and flowed the head for my race car says, “Its all in the head.”

Why did you have the chain wedged? Did you remove the cam sprocket? If so, again, why? Changing valve stem seals is a relatively straightforward job, even with the head on the car. Set the cylinder for valve you’re working on at just before top dead center on the compression stroke, feed some rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, leaving a bit out so you have something to pull the rope out by. Roll the crankshaft over a bit more toward top dead center until you feel the piston compressing the rope against the valves, then change out the valve stem seals for that cylinder. Repeat five more times. Or, use the compressed air trick, but only do each cylinder individually at top dead center.