Racer X

You need to figure out why the seat can’t be moved forward. It is possible that once it is moved forward the rear attachment points can be accessed. No, but I have removed and installed a lot of seats, in a lot of different types of vehicles. Many times it has been necessary to move the seat fully one way or the other to access the fasteners.

Are you not able to gain access by sliding the seat either all the way forward or all the way back?

Nothing but squares with a question mark in the middle.

Measure the diameter of each needle with a micrometer every 8 to 10 mm, along the shaft and compare. That should tell you if they are the same or different. I did just that when looking for an advantage by getting extra fuel with the SUs on my race Z. I was able to find a pair of needles that tapered more than the stock set, and gave more fuel, and ultimately more power and acceleration.

Are you absolutely sure the problem is fuel delivery, and not ignition? Using a fuel pressure gauge you should be able to confirm or eliminate fuel delivery as the culprit. Using a timing light, and a tach/dwell meter you should be able to confirm if the ignition system is performing as it should. When the mechanic had the tank out to replace the fuel gauge sending unit, did he not clean the tank and asses its condition? Also, there should be a nylon sock on the fuel pickup in the tank, sometimes they get clogged with debris and rust. Also, an observation. Are the short rubber hose bits from the fuel rail to the injectors original to the car? If so, they should be replaced. Many fuel injected Z cars have caught fire when these fail and fuel is dumped onto a hot exhaust manifold.

It is called a flare nut wrench. Found on the brake lines, but not the fuel lines on the carbureted Z cars. So yes, for the earlier Z cars a short length of fuel rated hose, and a couple hose clamps.

On my 72 the fuel line is secured all the way to where it turns up just below the fuel filter at the forward right side of the engine bay.

Regarding the stainless lines. Classic Tube ships the lines in a cardboard box, about 3.5 feet long. Since the longer lines exceed this, they have “shipping bends” which must be straightened out prior to installation. I found it easy to do, following the provided instructions. Also, I didn’t find it any more difficult to tighten the ends, using my calibrated from years of experience hands and flare nut wrenches. Classic Tube recommends 15ftlbs of torque. So if you have a crows foot flare nut wrench and a torque wrench, that is the best practice. Can’t recall if they specify the grade of stainless but I suspect they are using 301, which is malleable enough to not have the work hardening issues of other stainless grades. And the stainless polishes up mirror shiny for those who want more bling.

So the device on the BAT car is item 16 in this diagram, which would be mounted near the injector fuel rail, under the hood, not at the rear of the car downstream of the fuel pump.

If that is what the device is, then the bypassed fuel would pour out the open port, onto the ground.

I feel for you guys who don't have the years of experience and training it really takes to effectively make proper repairs. I'll try to offer some insight and help that will get you moving in the right direction. First, those cheap arse jacks at Harbor Freight are junk, and I don't know who is selling, if anyone, a good quality jack. Mine are both fairly old, manufactured in the early 1980s. Even with that, I just had a local shop rebuild mine. Two of my jacks: I also have decent quality jackstands, in a couple of sizes depending on what I need to support, and like the jacks, no one seems to sell them anymore. Additionally, I have a large, well equipped shop with enough tools to make Tim the Toolman Taylor jealous, and a lift, but not all the work I do can be done on a lift. For instance, I have been doing a lot of work on a 1995 F150 I picked up from my oldest grandson a few years back. It is too big for my lift, so everything I do that requires clear access underneath it, is done on jackstands. For instance, the fuel tanks were rusted and leaking, and new ones were available, so a couple years ago I swapped them out. And while I had it in the shop, I decided to do a brake job. What a can of worms. By the time I was done, I replaced everything on the brake system but the brake pedal, including all the hard lines. I also replaced all of the fuel lines. Snaking them along the frame rails, around the crossmembers, and wiring, and transmission, and transfer case, and engine and exhaust was difficult, but not impossible. I chose stainless steel. Which brings me to comment about your leaky fuel line. The hard lines on your Z are likely original to the car. The repair by the PO, and the problems you are having now, cause me to comment that you really should replace the entire line, from the tank to the engine bay. Classic Tube offers them, either in mild steel, or stainless steel. The previous repair may have been well intended but was poorly executed. The hose and clamps you have put on is sketchy, and I would not want to read a post by you that relates a fire that has destroyed your Z. Any fuel leak is dangerous. Patcon mentioned that it is the vapor of fuel that is the dangerous thing, and he is correct. But a puddle of gasoline will quickly become vapor, especially in the 100 degree heat of Sacramento. Don't play Russian roulette with your car. I highly recommend the stainless. It doesn't cost that much more than the mild steel and will outlast the car. And you can replace the lines without a lift, just the car on stands, and without pulling the engine and transmission. It will be a bit tricky, but it can be done. I bought the entire set of hard lines for my 72 240Z from Classic Tube, in stainless, for the fuel, clutch and brakes, and will be replacing them, soon myself. I've examined the car and feel that I could also do the job with the engine and transmission in the car, on jackstands, but I am also pulling them because the engine is tired and needs an overhaul. If I wasn't already pulling the drivetrain, I would definitely do it with them in, as I am too lazy to bother doing work I don't need to do. I also need to comment on the type of end the lines have. It is not a compression fitting; it is an inverted flare, and seals where the flared end of the tubing seats on the inverted flare inside the fitting and the clamping pressure exerted by the nut is what keeps it from leaking. These fittings do not require a huge amount of torque to make the seal. There are tools available to make the ends up, but if you get the lines from Classic Tube, they are already done, you simply remove your old stuff, put the new stuff on the car, and make the connections. And get a set of flare nut wrenches. Using open end wrenches will collapse the barrel nuts on inverted flare fittings, and round the wrench flats off so the only tool that will turn them is a vice grip. While I'm on the subject of tools, buy quality tools. They will cost more, but it goes like this: Buy quality (read expensive) tools, cuss them once. Buy cheap tools, cuss them every time you use them. I have tools that belonged to my grandfather, and my father, as well as tools that I have collected over a lifetime of working on stuff. Craftsman (from when they were good tools), Snap-On, MAC, K-D, SK, all made in America. I even have the very first socket set my dad gave me for Christmas when I was 10 years old, a 3/8 drive Craftsman set, a ratchet, 3" and 6" extensions, and sockets from 3/8" to 15/16". Never broken, still not worn out, except the ratchet, which Sears gave me a rebuild kit for a couple times over the 56+ years I have had it (although I doubt whoever is selling Craftsman tools these days will honor the lifetime warranty anymore now that Sears is gone). The chrome is worn, but they still get the job done.

No. Retrosound sells brand new radios, and I have found that although close, none have the exact appearance of the original Datsun radio. Pretty cool, but for my 72 I want to keep the stock look. This guy actually takes your stock radio, (or any stock radio you send him, and opens them up, and reworks the innards to add the USB and Bluetooth functions, and increase power if you wish (I will be choosing this option) This guy is the one near me: FM CONVERSIONS | CLASSIC CARS | BILL THE RADIO GUY But a web search reveals he is not alone: Conversions- Joe's Classic Car Radio (joesclassiccarradio.com) Ricks Radio Conversions - Radio Conversions, Car Radio Conversion There are more, some of which are brand specific (one guy only does Mopar radios), but go ahead and search around, and see what best suits your needs. Who knows, there may be someone within driving distance to you. You'll likely want to replace the stock speakers too and run dedicated wires.

On my daily drivers I change oil and filter, rotate the tires, and perform a full service, lube hinges, inspect brakes belts and hoses, etc. every 5,000 miles. For My Z cars, which never see that many miles, they get a full service every spring prior to use, including oil and filter. Cooling system every two years. The reason is first, oil is cheap insurance, and second, it breaks down more quickly from short drives and sitting. Moisture gets into the crankcase, and due to frequent short duration operating cycles, gets polluted more quickly. I also use a battery tender on them, as well as my tractors (I have two), the riding lawnmower, and one of my pickups that doesn’t see daily use. It could be the fuel pump is failing. The injected cars also have a fuel return that (I believe) has a regulator. Those have been known to go bad, and given the age of the car, if it is original, it may well be the culprit. Somewhere on this site is a place where you can download the factory service manual. If you haven’t already, grab it, and read through it. Everything you need to know is covered, including troubleshooting the fuel system. Careful, next thing you’ll have a rotisserie and welder. Floor pans, frame rails . . . . . 😂 If you didn’t live so far away I’d loan you the special tool it takes to remove the gland nuts for reworking the strut cartridges. Panasports look awesome on Z cars. That would be a nice upgrade. 👍 There is a guy near me who converts stock radios to accept USB and Bluetooth. I think he even offers a power upgrade. There may be someone similar near you too. Something to consider. Looks like he is fiddling with the brakes. Next thing he will be wanting to auto cross the car. 🏎️ Looking forward to updates as your journey unfolds.

Just say no. Get an old carburetor. Doesn't matter what kind, or even if it still is functional. Every weekend go out to your workshop, take it apart, and then put it back together. Repeat every weekend.

Regarding the oil level on the dipstick, I believe the sump capacity is 5 quarts. After changing oil and refilling, run the engine (so the filter is filled) and shut the engine off. After about 10 minutes check the level. That should give an accurate reading, and if it doesn’t match the dipstick, then make a note of where the level is in relation to the original marks. Now on to the oil pressure. The rule of thumb, for any engine, is 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm of engine speed. So at 5,000 rpm, it should have 50 psi. The stock gauge is not an accurate gauge. You can use a good quality mechanical gauge, for peace of mind, to compare to the stock gauge. Also note that cold the pressures will be different than when the engine is at operating temperature, and will fall off some. Nothing to be concerned about, provided the 10 psi/1,000 rpm rule is met. Being in California, you might also find that 20-50wt will give better oil pressure in the summer.

Looks like overpriced 3d printed stuff.

Looks like a fuel pressure regulator. If so, it won’t work without a vacuum signal, eh?

For sure. What is mystifying is how so many people were fawning over it like it was something extra special. To me, the BRE paint job was lipstick on a pig. The “3.1 stroker” engine didn’t sound very healthy either. Not enough lope for a high compression engine with an extra lumpy camshaft.

This 72 BRE tribute sold for $28,200. Odd things, cars like this. Under the hood it has tubing like the race car had, a continuation of the roll cage and chassis stiffening structure, but it looks only cosmetic. There is no cage structure in the cabin, which looks completely stock. It also lacks a strut tower bar. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-277/

The cross hatch angle should be around 30 degrees. I still see vertical scratches in the bores too. You mention the bores are still 86mm. What is the difference, from a measurment inline with the crank, and at 90 degrees to it? Be sure to also measure near the top, halfway down, and at the bottom of the stroke. You will find a difference, in diameters, and at each of the three locations from top to bottom. There is a specification for the amount of elongation of the diameter, and the taper from top to bottom. Check the service manual. The cylinder block deck still looks pretty rough, and would need cleaned up prior to installing the cylinder head. Have you measured it for flatness? I believe the allowance is something like 0.003". How about the cylinder head? If the lower end is an indicator, the head will need work as well. As Zed mentions, how many times do you want to pull the engine and disassemble it, and how much money do you want to spend before deciding that a proper rebuild would have been the better way to go initially?

It does look pretty rough under there.

The 72 with an L28 that Harmon Restorations had on BAT went for $48,300. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-278/

I use an electric fan on a 280Z 4 row brass radiator in my race Z, never had any trouble keeping it cool. I do have to run an oil cooler though, or the oil temp will get way too high, but I needed it even with the stock fan and fan clutch with a shroud.

And you are certain they are coming on when needed?

You're welcome. One thing I didn't mention, the fan. Is it the standard clutch fan, a fan with no clutch, or an electric fan?