Racer X

Like Patcon said, a good metal conversion primer with zinc in it.

So, you have been vaccinated, and you still caught it and got ill from it?

If the tie rod ends have any play they should be replaced. The easiest way to check for play is when everything is still assembled. Have someone move the steering wheel while observing the steering. You mentioned the steering is tight, if so they should be fine.

The aluminum slotted mags I have for my race car used shoulder lug nuts with a flat washer, and this happens to them. I use a tapered reamer to clean the holes up when they get too tight around the lug nuts. Probably lost about 1/16” of thickness over the last 30 years.

When I was young and didn’t know any better, well, yeah, I used a lug spanner (one of those x shaped things that has three different lug nut sockets and a screwdriver looking thing on the fourth bar to remove hubcaps).

I never use power tools on lug nuts. The risk of galling the threads and the seats on the wheels is too great. I have a long handle 1/2” drive ratchet to break them loose, a 1/2” drive T handle to remove and reinstall them, and a 1/2” drive torque wrench to do the final tightening. It ain’t a NASCAR pit stop, right? And I’m not trying to beat the flat rate book time either.

If it is a puzzle lock, the only way to get a replacement key is to have the code that came with the locks when new, then contact the manufacturer and request a replacement key. Otherwise a replacement will be impossible to get. The reason you can’t get a socket hammered on to work is because the nut is smooth, so there isn’t anything for the socket to bite into. You may find success using a dremel to cut some flats into the nut and then force a socket on to try and remove it. If you are going to keep trying to work on your car yourself, you need to invest in some good quality tools, and I’m not talking Harbor Freight. At this point you will be better off taking it to a shop where an experienced mechanic can get it done.

You don’t have any 1/2” drive tools? A torque wrench for tightening the wheel lugs will be 1/2” drive. Don’t tell us you don’t torque your lug nuts.

A land speed record Z for sale on BAT. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-190/

I picked up a set of Konig Rewind 15 x 7, and BF Goodrich 225-45 ZR 15 summer only tires for my 72. Haven’t mounted them yet, but when I do I’ll post here how they fit.

The rear struts are different on the 240 and 280, the 280 struts are taller, by (if I recall correctly) about 40mm. So the rear springs are shorter on a 240, taller on a 280. The fronts are the same height.

Sex? Have you ever climbed into the back of a Z? One would need to refer to the Kama Sutra to evaluate which positions would work.

Because they are stupid. Over the years I have seen some pretty weird stuff done to Z cars. Like the white one posted here from Faceplant Marketplace with the hatch sealed up and the rear window completely covered. Imagine having to work on the inside of the taillight panel.

The only machined surfaces on the block that are parallel to the cylinder bores are the front where the timing cover attaches, and rear where the transmission attaches. The deck where the cylinder head mounts and the pan rails where the oil pan attaches are perpendicular to the cylinder bores, and parallel to the crankshaft and camshaft center lines. I mounted a cylinder block to my engine stand, rotated it so the pan rail was perfectly level, using a smartlevel (a digital level). Next I mounted an oil pan, and measured the angle of the bottom of the pan using the smart level. I got 12 degrees.

My woman is post menopausal, so these days it is mother thumb and her four daughters.

I would have stuck it in a baggie with a bit of orange peel. That would rehydrate the dried out weed, giving it that “just right cured and ready to smoke” texture.

[quote]Wait until she finds out it doesn’t even have cup holders. [/quote] Every car I own has a cup holder. Right here:

I have found lots of money and other stuff in cars over the years. Coins under carpet or deep inside seat cushion crevices. Combs, pens, hairpins, and tools in nooks and crannies. Even useful tools.

Pretty much it. Blow the carbon out of it.

Black is carbon, resulting from incomplete combustion of the air/fuel mixture. It collects in the exhaust, and when you start the car condensation mixes with the carbon and the wet, black mess blows out the tailpipe.

You are walking down a path. Pull engine. Replace transmission. Clean engine bay. Rework the front suspension. Next stop, rear suspension. Where does it end?

I think he used to be this guy.

I’m not entirely sure, but the all fiber header only gaskets seal better at the exhaust ports. This is what I am referring to, although this one is for a 4 cylinder L series engine.

That gasket isn’t correct for use with a header. It looks like an OEM gasket with a sandwich of metal and fiber. The header gasket is all fiber, with no metal embedded in it.