Racer X

Smellivision.

Look! A new set of tires!

Lume. Here is my perspective on body odor. Over the years I have had some pretty nasty funk. Usually after drinking heavily, and back when I smoked cigarettes. It has also been an observation that some foods also lend a bit to the stink that emanated from my sweat glands. A number of things have resulted in little to no offensive body odor for me. I rarely consume alcohol these days, and when I do, it is with moderation. I quit smoking about 30 years ago. A more natural, whole food diet, including lots of onion and garlic. Of course a daily regimen of a thorough scrubbing with soap, and complete drying of the entire body, is crucial for keeping the bacteria on the skin held in check. After all, it is that pesky Carl guy who is still lurking about in those thigh folds, armpits, between the toes and on the ballsack. I haven’t used deodorant or antiperspirant in over twenty years. Don’t need to.

Television has changed considerably over the years. As a boy, dad refused to get a color TV as he felt the technology was too new and too expensive, so we always had black ac white. Of course TV was broadcast via the airwaves, and we got 3 channels, ABC, NBC, CBS, and sometimes, with the right amount of aluminum foil on the antenna we also got PBS, and a local independent station. When I moved out on my own, a television was a luxury, so I didn’t have one. That changed in 1986 when I fractured two thoracic vertebrae. The doctor said I could go to the hospital ad be in full body traction for six weeks, or go home and lay on a sheet of plywood for six weeks. I chose the latter. On my way home from the doctor I stopped by Sears, ordered a color TV, stopped by the cable company and ordered cable. The next day the TV was delivered, the cable guy came and hooked me up, and I lay on my back watching TV for a month and a half. Today I have a 55” flat screen in the living room, a 55” flatscreen upstairs in my man cave, a 30” flatscreen in the bedroom, and not one, but two flatscreen TVs in my shop, a 40” and a 60”. I record almost all racing related programming, and mostly watch car related programs.

That Z looks better than most of the piles of ferric oxide they have offered up, but yeah, I’d be skeptical of any car they offer up.

That piece would be used either as a way to connect a remote mounted air filter, or, in a blow through turbo setup, to route the pressurized air into the carburetor.

I think it has something to do with the installation. Done right it shouldn’t look any different than when the original trim was installed.

Maybe it is because the European license plates are 3 feet wide? (OK, I jest, they aren’t 3 feet wide, but are a good bit wider than the US plates.)

Boise, Idaho is about 20 minutes from San Diego, California?

Have you checked the starter mounting bolts? Are they tight? It sounds like the bendix is hanging, not returning as it should.

Settle down Cliff. Canuckistan is my next door neighbor, an hour and a half drive from my door, eh? Our weather guess (notice the temps never get to 50):

Gonna be tricky getting the front cover on with the head and oil pan on tight.

We’ve had snow off and on for a few weeks now, it was looking like we might have another white Christmas. A few days ago it was 8 degrees outside. Night before last it snowed another inch on top of about 8 inches of accumulation. Shortly before sunrise it started to rain. At 25 degrees. The half inch of overnight snow turned into a quarter inch of ice. Everything had a layer of ice on it as the rain froze on contact. The outdoors looked like a glazed donut. This morning it is 48 degrees, and what snow we have left is going away quickly. So instead of a white Christmas, we’re having a wet Christmas.

Notice the tape and cloth on his right hand. Padding for shifting.

Looks like it has the 7” wide aluminum slots, instead of the 6”.

Do any of the staffs run on ruby bearings? Or are oilite bushings used?

Yes, the KF panel is only an inner rocker reinforcement panel. The item number 1 in the parts manual dot com page is a full panel, from the plenum down to the pinch weld where the inner and outer rocker panels, and the reinforcement panel come together. Somewhere the outer edge of the floor pan ties in there too.

Depends on if you can use it effectively. The cam can be installed and timed without one, but the upper sprocket has a number of marks and dowel pin positions to allow advancing or retarding the cam position relative to the crank. Since your engine has been “built”, knowing the cam grind data, lift, duration, lobe separation, and the optimal timing of valve lift relative to piston position is something that should be considered during assembly. Getting it “right” will make a significant difference in how well the engine runs and performs.

Follow the instructions on the gasket. Do you know what a degree wheel is? If so, do you have one and know how to use it? Dialing a cam in ensures optimal performance. Oh, and the damage in the combustion chamber looks like there had been detonation in that cylinder. Didn’t you mention a turbo in this engine’s history? Other than a modest disturbance of air flow, and slight difference in chamber volume, and the appearance, if the valve is sealing, it doesn’t hurt anything being there.

Oohh!!!! Can this be a share your rustbuckets thread? If so, I have a few. Here is a 77 280Z I have, HLS30-400870.

You can’t, really. The actual reading can be interpolated though. The gauge range is 130 degrees. So the center would be 65 degrees higher than 120, at 185. At about three quarters of the way it would be approximately 217 degrees. If it were my Z I would expect to see the needle about 5/8 of the way between 120 and 250, around 201 degrees. And the oil pressure gauge, do the same. Straight up is 45 psi. If the engine is trining 4,000 rpm, I want to see the needle straight up, maybe just a bit more towards 90.

At 170 the engine is running cool, a normal range would be 190 to 220. You would likely see an average of 185 to 195 with a cooling system in good operating condition.

Further to this, water boils at 212 degrees F at sea level. A 50/50 mix of water and ethylene glycol boils at around 223 degrees F. Pressurizing the cooling system raises the boiling point further, to around 226 degrees F, depending on the pressure rating of the cap, the higher the pressure, the higher the boiling point. So again, unless your cooling system temperature gets at or over 190 degrees F and doesn’t come down, there isn’t anything of concern.

So the temperature range is 170 to 180 ish, correct? When it drops back down to 170, is that as low as it goes? I think it is operating just fine. Wouldn’t start to worry unless it gets to 190 and doesn’t want to cool down.