Racer X

You’re welcome!

Double check that the PCV valve isn't stuck open and letting in excessive air.

I put the Toyota 4 piston calipers with the 300ZX vented rotors on my race Z . It's a pretty noisy environment, so I wouldn't know if they were rattling or not. There is a stainles steel spring that should be nstalled. Each end is tucked under the pins that hold the pads in place, and at a couple places inbetween the spring pushes down on the backing plates of the pads. Do you have those in place?

The sound of the engine revving didn’t sound right to me. It sounded much higher than 6000 rpm. It was more like that of a 60’s Formula 1 car, screaming, and didn’t always seem synced to the video.

Well it didn’t get quite as high as the seller felt it should go. I think the decay from the long term storage may have hurt it some.

I’ve done the same to two piece calipers, for the same reasons. For the bolt torque I used a setting appropriate for the bolt size and grade. A general torque chart lists 10mm x 1.25 grade 8.8 bolt torque at 36 ft lbs.

The problem with the original folded space saver tires is they have been folded for over 40 years. When you try to inflate them the bead will refuse to fully seat, then whatever air you put in them just leaks out, very quickly. I tried inflating one that was in a 78 280Z I have recently, and that is how it went. The tire even folded back up as the air leaked out.

It might fit the wheel, but a 70 series tire will have too large a diameter to fit in the spare tire well in the car.

Reminds me of the cars you see running on the space saver spare, clearly marked “TEMPORARY USE ONLY”, and the tread is nearly worn off because the car owner is either too cheap to get their flat fixed, or too poor, as they are from the ghetto. Of course your car looks a damn sight nicer than those clapped out slag heaps seen sporting a worn out temporary spare, and we all know it would be a certain assumption that in your case it was indeed temporary, and your nice looking Z was promptly returned to a more presentable condition, rolling on 4 matched tires and wheels.

After my comment I followed the other link and saw the updated posts, thanks. The car looks so ghetto with the temporary spare on it. 😆

Your pictures are broken Captain.

In the video it looks like the plate is there, but the part with the timing marks (0 to 10 degrees) is missing, possibly broken off. I would turn the engine by hand to get the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke, then see where the mark on the crank pulley is. There has been several different types of pointer plates over the evolution of the L series engine. See if the FSM has a diagram or picture that shows the timing marks and the plate.

You’re pretty observant. Yes, there was some mixing and matching to correct the previous ten years of thrashing the car had prior to my acquisition. I had a 280 chassis that gave up it’s core so the 71 could live.

HLS30-41924, build date 8/71. This Z has been a race car since 1989, I bought it in 1989. Originally red, the car had been painted many times. I stripped it to the bare shell, bare metal, removed the bolt in roll bar and built a full cage. Refinished in 1985 Corvette red, and Mercedes grey. It has done well, running ICSCC and SCCA meets in the Pacific Northwet, and Thunderhill twice. I was Conference Production E champion in 1997. The car is currently awaiting a fresh engine.

HLS30-56539, build date 11/71, engine L24-069273, automatic transmission, 114 brown metallic. Interior was originally tan (more like orange) but was changed to all black by the previous owner. Original paint, 77,000 original miles. It came with the original wheels and hubcaps. I’ve owned this car since 1992.

Radiator? Looks like the floor under the seat.

Rockauto has multiple brands of new master cylinders, including Beck Arnley (about $65). You most likely can get one at your local NAPA auto parts store. I still think it is the vacuum booster rod adjustment. It only needs to be off a tiny amount to cause the brakes to drag (not release fully).

0.020” (inches) = 0.508mm (millimeters).

As long as there is a gap, about 0.020”. If there is no gap, the booster will (slightly) apply the brakes without depressing the brake pedal.

Yes, I missed a zero. 🥹 It should be 0.035”. Sorry, eh?

About 0.35”.

You said you recently changed the master cylinder. Did you check and adjust the vacuum booster pushrod? There needs to be about 0.020” clearance between the booster pushrod and the cup inside the master cylinder piston. If the gap is too large, there will be excessive pedal travel and the brakes will feel soft. Not enough gap, and the vacuum booster will be partially applying the brakes, causing them to drag, and heat up.

Where are you at?

That is the 64 dollar question, eh? What happened during that period, how the car was looked after, how it was stored, the manner in which it was refurbished. I also noticed the listing has a receipt showing the car had magnesium Mini Lite wheels, then later one for the wheels it has now. The original paperwork makes it look like the car was updated by the dealer with some go fast parts, but I don’t see any of them, on the car or in the pile of removed stuff.

Not sure about the air box configuration. I went back and took a closer look. The car was stored for a long time, looks like from the late 1980s to around 2000 or so. Interesting how the OEM exhaust was removed, and a header, etc installed. The header looks old and rusty, the rest somewhat newish. After going over the listing again, I don’t see this car going for the large money the one family Z from New England (the guy was a dealer, kept the car and barely used it) that went for something close to $150,000.