Racer X

So. After all that, what was your finishing position?

Why not have the machine shop source pistons? They should have the specialized equipment for checking the connecting rods and mounting the pistons.

What a bunch of rust buckets. Not much usable structure left on any of them.

I’ve seen car alarms back in the day that had a key cylinder on the exterior, but never one creatively placed like the one on this 280Z.

Whenever I have had engine block work done, I have given the machine shop the cylinder block, complete rotating assembly (crankshaft, connecting rods, damper pulley, flywheel and clutch cover). The machinist sourced and fitted the pistons. The machinist and I had a clear understanding of what I wanted, including the piston configuration. I was given everything after the work was completed, including rings and bearings, and prior to assembly I checked bearing clearances and ring end gaps.

In any hydraulic system the cup side of a seal faces the pressure of the system. That way the pressure forces the seal against the bore and rod.

Wonder why he is selling the engine, bumpers, and the aftermarket carbon fiber bumper?

Looks like a nice instrument panel. No cracks and unmolested. I would simply clean it with mild detergent, then dress it with a plastic dressing.

Looks like he gained some weight.

Odd. That doesn't look like Paul Loquesto Newman.

After all that work I’d carve out an adapter to mount the original stuff. Or make something all your own.

Have you looked into one of these? https://www.technoversions.com/TachMatch.html

Vitamin B12.

I’m in the country, on 6 acres, and a private road, so no worries from Citiots.

Looks like the V8 might have been a little bit much for that one.

And a 2+2 in Snohomish for $2,800. Extra intake manifolds. Lots of cancer pics. https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/d/snohomish-78-datsun-280z/7475720654.html

A V8 Z in North Bend. $28,000 https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/north-bend-240/7482946215.html

Oh, you like the digitalis?

Your boneyard looks a bit more tidy than mine.

Since we all seem to be traveling down motorcycle memory lane, here is one of mine. A 1977 Honda Hawk, bought brand new shortly after college. Still have it but haven’t ridden it in a very long time.

There is a guy on Ratsun, who lives in Texas, that has made a few wood rims for steering wheels. It is a fairly straightforward process. Make a circular jig for a router, select a nice cut of wood, rout the two halves, glue them onto the rim, and finish the wood. One he laminated several different types of wood stained different colors. It looks awesome. He even made a matching shift knob. Check it out here: https://ratsun.net/topic/78921-diy-steering-wheels/#comment-1700673

Thanks Cliff. So this site lists, but doesn’t really describe the differences in the green and blue dyed 100 octane avgas. I did find a Shell avgas site that does. So the green dyed avgas is an older formulation that has tetra ethyl lead in it, and the blue dyed avgas has a lower amount of lead in it than the green dyed fuel, hence, the “LL” designation. Sheesh, I learn something new everyday.

What is the web page this is from Cliff?

Looks like the green must be unleaded. I always go for the highest grade at the pump when I go to the airport to buy fuel, and 100LL (100 octane low lead) is usually the highest grade. I’ll need to have a look when I go next time, and see if they have the unleaded.

Blue. It is dyed so it can readily identified by the tax cops looking for people who are trying to avoid road taxes. The racing gasoline I used to buy is dyed purple. Off road diesel (for tractors and heavy machinery) is dyed red for the same reason.