Racer X

The drip rail stainless steel trim is designed to be installed without any clips or mechanical devices to hold them on. They simply snap on over the drip rail.

Looks more like an afternoon sitting in the shade, drinking piña coladas. 🙂

Nice toolbox Captain.

I think for a US spec 280 the 5mph bumper shocks need to be removed, brackets sourced ( there are aftermarket adapters available) or fabricated, and the rear bumper adjusted so it doesn’t ride the quarter panel ( the 280 doesn’t have the relief for the bumper).

Nah, the lung warts are far too large for my tastes.

It can’t hurt.

The former owner, General Westberg: https://www.af.mil/About-Us/Biographies/Display/Article/105202/brigadier-general-leslie-j-westberg/

The plastic plugs are to fill the holes drilled for spraying rust preventative compound. Odd that the person applying the stuff thought it was OK to drill through the ID plate, and the date.

The guy from Edmonton who “owned” this car for a short time brought it to the states and raced it at Portland International Raceway and Seattle International Raceway (now known as Pacific Raceway at a couple of ICSCC club racing meets.

If they are stainless steel they shouldn’t rust.

Sorry I took so long to reply. The lift is sold by Bend Pak, but isn’t branded. I added jacks that roll forward and backward to allow wheel end work. It is great for maintenance and service work, I also have a transmission jack for doing transmission and clutch work.

A drafting table! Nice. I worked as a draftsman back in the days when the only computer was my HP33c scientific calculator with reverse polish notation (no equals button).

So a later block would be needed to go with them, right? The earlier blocks don’t have a larger boss cast there with the two holes.

You own your own boot? How much did it set you back?

A nicely done car that went for a lot of money. I noticed something I've never seen before. These braces. Where do I get some?

Beer. Is there anything it can’t do?

There were lots of peanut butter sammiches too. Peanut butter is cheap, and loaded with vitamins and minerals and protein and stuff. Nature’s perfect food.

I think all of us did.

Ramen!

Carbon deposits won’t cause engine overheating. A cooling system that is not well maintained will. Radiator passages clogged with rust and mineral deposits will. A water pump with a corroded impeller will. I use Techroline, the additive that Chevron puts in their gasoline. It can be found in better auto parts stores. Warm the engine, then introduce it through the carburetor while working the throttle by hand (as it gets into the combustion chamber the engine will stumble and want to die, don’t let that happen). Just as the last of the Techroline is getting sucked into the engine, let it die, so the stuff can soak in. After a half hour or so, restart the engine, and blow the rest of the carbon out. The only other way is to remove the head and clean everything up. But. It sounds like your engine is one with high miles. Cooling system issues, carbon buildup, these are indicators of an engine with a lot of miles on it.

Dieseling, or running on after shutting the key off is caused by excessive carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. The carbon gets super heated, and when the key is switched off, killing the ignition spark, the glowing bits of carbon continue to ignite the air/fuel mixture.

The OP is using a kit that has a controller in addition to the thermoswitch and relay.

Don't attach it to the ignition coil. When you do, the fan controller grounds the ignition, killing it. Attach the yellow wire to a source that is hot when the key is in the on position.

Which terminal on the coil are you connected to?

Those holes are all blind on the heads I have looked at here, so oil shouldn't be coming out through the threads. It is most likely the threads are stripped, or nearly stripped, and the bolt won't tighten up. (The head being different isn't really an issue, it is the thread diameter and pitch, and grip length of the fastener that is important, and a lot of that size bolt tend to have the phillips as well as a hex) Take the cover off, clean the surfaces, check the threads (I always run a bottoming tap to clean them up, then squirt some carb cleaner and blow it out with air. Repair the threads if that hole is stripped. If you don't have a gasket, you cam make one with a phone book cover. Use a thin film of grey RTV on both sides, or forego the gaskety and use RTV (a thin film, hand tighten the screws, with a day or so for it to cure then snug to torque. About 2 gallons is right.