Racer X

Which cable?

Heater control panel.

10 and 3 aren’t 180 degrees apart, more like 160/170. It would be a good idea to start fresh. Set the engine at #1 top dead center. Then check the camshaft position to ensure it is in the correct position. If it isn’t, reset the cam. A degree wheel is very helpful here, both for setting the initial timing up, and checking the opening and closing of the valves, camshaft lobe centers, etc. If the cam timing is found to be correct, then there is some other issue.

It looks like you will need to do a lot of work before trying to start that up. From here it is impossible to tell the condition of the wiring, fuel system, cooling system, etc. As for removing the Megasquirt harness and circuit board, I wouldn’t start chopping and ripping. A more deliberate approach is needed. Like a surgeon removing a tumor from a patient. Take the time to see where it is connected to the original harness, remove any unnecessary bits neatly, so you don’t compromise the integrity (well, what’s left of it anyway) of the original wiring.

I concur on the clutch, looks like the typical Centerforce design with the inertia weights to increase clamping pressure as engine speed increases. I've not seen a friction disc with two different friction surfaces before though. Can't even hazard a guess on the pipes, but other than the thin flange (I see it has blocks welded to allow for flat clamping pressure though), I like it. What size are the primaries and the outlets? Square or round ports?

Porsche has set a new lap record at the Nurburgring Nordschleife in the 919 Hybrid Evo. The car hit a maximum speed of 339km/hr (almost 230 miles an hour!). I think the driver left a bit on the table though, he tiptoes around the Karussell, and some of the other turns he doesn't seem to be going 10/10ths. Still, a nice lap..

Never seen a crank pulley seal with a metal flange like that. Always fully covered in rubber. Also, it is best to install the seal with the cover off of the engine. I lay the cover on a flat surface, such as a clean sheet of plywood, with a clean shop towel on it. Then I set the seal in the opening, and lay a 2x4 on top, taking care to hold the seal square and true to the opening. I use a large deadblow hammer to set the seal into the hole, driving it flush with the front of the cover. There isn’t anything to keep the seal from being pushed all the way through, so using the method described here ensures the seal is placed squarely and at the correct depth. Grease the seal where it rides on the snout of the pulley, and install the cover. For the woodruff key, I use a dab of grease to hold it in place while sliding the pulley on. The pulley should slide on easily, never force it. If it takes more effort than using your hands, something is wrong. Figure out what and correct the problem. It helps to test fit before getting to final assembly, before the cover is installed, to be sure it is ready to go.

There’s always Washington, Colorado or any of the 15 states with legal recreational weed. Just sayin’. 🤪

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I've tried to cut out portions of and edit quoted posts, but this new forum software isn't very cooperative. For instance, when there is a mention in the quoted post, and I want to edit it out, the text editor won't let me. Instead it starts acting squirrely, and trying to select and ctrl/d or backspace it away results in freaky unwanted carriage returns. And if I try to break up a quoted post to discuss individual points, adding in the appropriate BB code doesn't provide the desired formatting. And there isn't a preview post button, or an advanced text editor. Weird. Sure, there are some neat features, one doesn't need to manually enter BB code for dropping a picture or a YouTube video. That's a nice time saver. But generally, I find this new layout buggy and difficult to get control of, so I apologize if my posts are a bother.

I've never had anything but K mount cameras and lenses. After going digital my collection of manual lenses exploded. Lots of M and A series, Russian M42 stuff, Sigma (mostly) film era, and I lean towards f2.8 and faster. I recently picked up a Zuiko 35mm f2.8 Shift, and converted it to K mount for use on my K-1 (digital). I need to give it a go with Z pictures. My main lens for shooting cars is a Sigma 28mm f2.8 Mini Wide, or a Pentax A 28mm f2.8, as I can get in close to compose out the people walking around without getting too much distortion, so the Zuiko shouldn't be too much different.

Pentax, Nikon or Canon?

Here is a chart that may be helpful for understanding the best air fuel ratios for various fuels. Stpichiometric Ratios For Ethanol, Gasoline and Ethanol/Gasoline Blends

It is all over. Now.

Pretender.

Spoon.

Good.

Wipeout Turn . . . .

Woman. Can't live with her. Can't live without her.

Riding mower belts are a pain in the arse. James Gang.

Saturday, a day off. Spent fixing the power seat mechanism on the grandson's POS 2013 Focus. Cheap plasctic junk, holding the drive motor and drive cables, hanging low. A stray pop bottle or candy bar and the thing breaks. Anyway, in my shop, doing what I like, being Mr. Fixit. Nirvana, eh?

It's the Golden Age.

Saturday and Racer isn't spending it at The Big Shed drillin' and fillin'.

For what it is worth, here is my take on the subject of bumpers on the S30. The chassis is 100% sheet steel, formed into a monocoque to support the suspension loads imparted while driving, while also carrying the engine, drivetrain, interior (seats, dash, wiring, spare, etc.) glass and the bodywork that doesn't contribute to the structural integrity of the car. The early bumpers were flimsy at best, only included in the design to satisfy the safety regulations of the era. The addition of the 5mph bumpers changed the chassis little, primarily with the addition of reinforcement where the shock absorbing cylinders were mounted to the ends of "frame". And then the bumper only needed to protect the car's occupants in a 5mph collision. Look at any of these cars that has been involved in a collision even at relatively low speeds, such as 25 to 30mph. They crumple up like an empty beer can. And the bumpers are often lost in the wadded up sheet metal. So to your question abut an inner bumper to support the aftermarket airdam/bumper. Absolutely, a close fitting tubular inner support would work great to reduce the damage done by inconsiderate jackwads who view cars as an appliance and lack any regard for awesome classic sports cars. There will still be damaged, albeit mostly cosmetic, a simple repair. Hit it harder and as Charles points out, the impact loads are likely to transfer a great deal of the energy into the framerail and inner structures that share the loads in that area (remember, monocoque). I've owned quite a few cars and pickups over the years that were worthy of my constant attention, washing, cleaning, polishing, maintaining, repairing, and constantly repaying my efforts with the ego boost when some other like minder person says, "Hey, nice ride!" Its a labor of love, but I try not to love anything that cannot love me back. But I have always been annoyed by the turds who lack the capacity to show respect to another person's vehicle and not cause damage to it. So I always carefully choose a parking space. Protect the passenger side with the planter at the end of an aisle. Park far enough out that there is less likelihood of someone parking within ten spaces (remember, the inconsiderate ones are also the lazy ones, so they always clamor for the front, nose in their stoopit phon checking FacePlant). If I don't have a passenger I crowd the right side of the stall. On the road, I drive both offensively and defensively. Watch traffic close an far away, easing up in intersections, glancing right and left in anticipation of one of the aforementioned dipsticks with their face in their stoopit phon, not focused on the task of driving. (cross my fingers and knock on the fake wood on my Z steering wheel) I haven't been in an accident that was my fault in over 40 years, and only two where the other driver was at fault (and had I been more focused on driving might have avoided). It is your car so the final say is yours, so do what your best judgement dictates. Then do your best to avoid the distracted dipsticks.

You can call me Racer, Steve, ;) For sure, the quality of the refurb should have commanded a much higher price, especially for a car like this. Considering all the labor involved, and the coordination and management of the build, the guy barely broke even, maybe even lost money.

Very nice. I've always liked that era for 911's. I have been fortunate to take a couple out on the road course at Pacific Raceways. Once in a street driven 911 Carerra, and once in a similar Carerra that was race prepped and ultimately became a competitor of mine in the ICSCC Production class. Fast cars, handle perfectly, comfortable to drive. If I was rich I'd have these instead of Zs. So the itemized refurb cost was $402,622.24, and it sold for $427,000, for a net of $24,377.76. I guess that guy isn't getting rich building Porsches and selling them on BAT, eh?