Racer X

Does it still have drum brakes?

Nah, she’s too young for me. Oh, wait, I bet you’re talking about the car, aren’t you? Never mind.

Reading through this thread, and I see lots of good information, but I also see some that isn’t so good. When new Datsun required 95 octane fuel. I use the highest octane fuel available when filling my street driven Zs, and use with 100LL avgas or 110 racing fuel in my race engines. The engine in stock form has 9.0/1 compression, so low octane regular pump gas isn’t suitable. As mentioned, if these cars are sitting for extended periods without being run, a fuel stabilizer is a great idea. Octane boosters do nothing to stabilize the fuel during extended storage. Note that even stored in a sealed container the fuel can degrade over time, as the additives separate as vapor, and are lost when the container is opened, and no, shaking before opening won’t recombine them with the fuel, you need a refinery to do that. Regarding setting fuel mixtures, having access to a 4 gas automotive exhaust gas analyzer makes the process a cinch. Not having one doesn’t mean that it can’t be done, it just removes any uncertainty regarding the correct mixture settings. Setting the mixture without one goes like this: turn the mixture lean until the engine begins to stumble, then turn the collar towards rich until the stumble goes away. If the engine is running too rich, then lean it out very slightly. Tuning SU carburetors isn’t as difficult as some people make it out to be. The SU is an amazingly simple carb. I found the following on Classic Motorsports, a web page centered on British cars, and feel it is relevant here: [quote]Assuming that the carburetors are in good condition and have properly sized needles in them, the tuning procedure is not as complex as most people think. However, before the carbs are touched, ignition dwell and timing must first be correct. It's a good idea to ensure valve clearances are correct as well. A quick check for vacuum leaks is next, and only once this is done is it time to move on to the carburetors. Next, if there are two or more carburetors, they need to be synchronized. This can be done with either a dedicated synchronization tool or a short length of hose. With the engine running at idle--usually 600 to 1000 rpm--the synchronization tool is placed over the inlet of each carburetor to get a reading on its gauge. The idle screw is adjusted on each carburetor until each one gives the same reading on the synchronization tool. The low-buck method is to substitute a 12- to 18-inch length of 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch hose for the tool. Hold one end of the hose up to the air inlet of each carb and the other end to your ear. When each carb emits the same noise through the hose, they are synchronized at idle. (Note that revving the engine slightly and periodically throughout the adjustment process helps to "clear out" the carbs.) After the carbs are synchronized at idle, the throttle linkages can then be adjusted to ensure they remain synchronized throughout the rpm range. With just a little free play in the linkage, each throttle arm should start moving at the same time when the accelerator pedal is depressed. If not, the locking nuts can be loosened to adjust the linkage. The idle mixture is set next. The conventional method, which is published in most manuals, works very well. First, each piston is lifted slightly, about 1/16-inch (usually a small screwdriver is helpful for this step). If the engine speed falls off, the mixture is too lean and the jet is lowered via its adjustment nut or screw. If the rpm rise, the mixture is too rich and the jet is raised. If raising the carb's piston causes the engine speed to rise by about 50 rpm before returning to its previous level, the mixture is just right. An alternate method is to use a vacuum gauge and adjust the mixture in each carb to get the highest vacuum at idle that is possible. At this point, the idle speed can be verified to be correct and the tuning is nearly done. All that is left is the "choke" adjustment. As discussed before, SUs don't really have chokes, as they richen the mixture instead to allow smooth engine starting. This is usually accomplished through a linkage and cam that lowers the jets and raises the idle speed. The linkage and cam only affect idle speed in the first two-thirds of the distance of choke cable travel; it increases the air/fuel mixture as well as the idle speed during the final third of travel. The two steps to adjustment are to ensure that multiple carb setups have proper linkage balance between carbs, then to set the high-speed idle screws that touch the cams. High speed idle is usually around 1800 rpm.[/quote] Note the second paragraph which mentions the state of the ignition tune. Very important.

Why not upgrade to a manual?

A tip: Use a block of wood (I prefer a hardwood like oak) to support the part rather than placing it on the concrete. It will protect the concrete from chipping, and, more importantly, protect the part from damage by the concrete.

Thanks for the props. Life’s a journey, enjoy the ride.

Because Facebook. A toxic hellhole.

Well you did a nice job laying it around the nipple and the forks. Never seen anything like that before. The washers can be reused if they don’t get overnighted or damaged, and are kept and installed clean. I use copper crush washers to index the spark plugs on my race engine. I’ll reuse them a few times before tossing in the metal recycling bin.

Nice sounding pipes. Love the color of your Z, my 71 is red. I gotta ask, how did you get that tape on the banjo fittings, and why did you put it on there? Is there a copper washer on each side of the banjo?

They are selling t shirts with the Z on it too. Limited production.

A number of different manufacturers made the aluminum slot wheels. I have 5 or 6 sets of 14 X 7 wheels, US Indy, Appliance, American Racing, and some with no markings.

Those are American Racing wheels. 15x7, 0 offset. This online seller has them, $273 each. https://www.andysautosport.com/products/american_racing_wheels__VNA695748.html

He may be using this method: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_oxide

Use 3M weatherstrip adhesive to attach the rubber seals. A nylon scraper works well fro removing the residual adhesive from the previous installation, and, as you mentioned, softening it with a solvent will make removal easier. Use a high quality carbide drill bit, cutting lube, and keep the drill bit speed very slow. Take your time. Any heat from drilling will work harden the stainless, ruining the drill bit, and making drilling with a fresh bit next to impossible.

Regarding the access to the right side. There should be a small panel, behind the right rear tire that can be removed. Several small hex head screws hold it in. Then you don’t have to drop the tank.

Lug centric and hub centric are two distinctly different methods for centering wheels on the hub of a vehicle. I can’t recall at the moment which is the method used on the early Z cars, but it will only be one, or the other, as no vehicle will have a combination of the two methods. So if the Z hubs are lug centric, then the wheels must be of the lug centric design, and if they are hub centric, then wheels of hub centric design must be used. Using a lug centric wheel on a hub centric design will result in improper fitment, and rotational vibrations. Using a hub centric wheel on a lug centric hub design may result in the wheel not seating fully on the hub, again with resulting excessive runout. I believe the Konig wheels come with a plastic piece inserted in the center, to compensate for the difference in hub diameter, and the end user is cautioned to be sure it isn’t removed when installed on the early Z hub.

Repair sleeves are available to for worn seal surfaces. Any bearing supply house or or auto parts supply should have them.

Is your engine fuel injected? If so, the throttle sticking could be carbon buildup at the throttle butterfly. Open it up, and have a look. If there is any carbon wipe it off with a rag and carb cleaner. Use an old toothbrush to get at the hard to reach spots.

The lift I have uses atf as the hydraulic oil (atf is hydraulic oil by the way). I used to own a 1948 Chevrolet dump truck. The dump box, manufactured by Heil, used 10wt non detergent motor oil for the hydraulic fluid. My 1948 Ford 8N tractor uses tractor hydraulic fluid, which is a hybrid hydraulic fluid/gear lubricant as the tractor hydraulic section is common to the transmission and differential. So, three different types of fluid to accomplish essentially the same thing. Oh, and the only vehicle I own that has an automatic transmission, my 1995 F150, uses atf (a specialized hydraulic oil) in the automatic transmission (a specialized hydraulic pump).

Good luck I hope you are successful! I’ve broken a lot of bolts over the years, even titanium (when I was building airplanes). When I was serving the apprenticeship to be a truck mechanic I learned how to blow a broken bolt out of the hole for an exhaust manifold on an American V8 engine using an oxy acetylene cutting torch. Of course the cylinder head was cast iron, which is something that can’t be done with bolts in an aluminum head. And of course I’ve also been in your shoes, trying to remove steel bolts stuck in aluminum from corrosion. Not a fun time, to be sure. Even less fun when one breaks and you have to resort to left handed drill bits and “easy out” extractors. Patience pays dividends here. So go slow, stop if you’re unsure, go have a cup of coffee or a beer, then try again.

Sounds like it has a healthy lope to it. What are the engine details? Compression, cam, stroke?

If you aren’t using it very much, shut it down, and open the drain valve.

Good luck.

I plumbed s small spigot from the bottom of my air tanks (I have 3) out to where they are easy to get to. I also made platforms for the tanks, so they are off the shop floor about 4”.

That’s a lot of corrosion. You might be better off of you can remove the upper and lower thermostat housings together, then soak in penetrating oil. Try to remove the sending units and temp sensor first, while it is still attached to the cylinder head. After a good soak, apply some heat. I also find a sharp rap with a ball peen hammer to the bolt heads will break the rusty bond between the steel of the bolt and the aluminum of the housing. Good luck, eh?